Good Beer Hunting

Every once in awhile I like to have someone on the podcast who I’ve been talking to or working with for awhile. It’s not always easy to know when the right time is — I have to keep my eagerness in check. Often for a long time. Whether it’s the state of their business, or a major transition, or as market factors shift around it — I try to look for a sweet spot where the guest has learned enough about who they are and what business they’re in, but also started to develop their own vision for what the future might hold. It’s a moment where I see them sort of settle in to a groove. And the challenge is to get them to reflect on what that settling in moment is all about. Today’s guest, Manny Valdes of Cruz Blanca in Chicago is someone I’ve consulted with over the past couple years off and on and he’s sought some perspective on all that. He’s a master at soaking up different perspectives and gradually, patiently, synthesizing his own. Indeed, much of the work we’ve done has often felt like a slow-drip conversation between friends over a late dinner. And I’ve walked away with more intriguing questions than I had answers. Manny falls outside the lines of how I’d describe most brewery and brewpub owners. While he’s a good operator and focused on the details, he clearly spends most of his time observing, imagining, and listening to the stories people tell about his brand. He factors it all in. And while he’s spent a lot of time the past couple years trying to articulate who Cruz Blanca is - lately he’s seemed less…concerned. Or less…exacting about that. He’s been more playful and reclined in a way. And that, for me, was an indication that something was shifting and maybe positively so. And I wanted to talk to him about it. Cruz Blanca has a particular history in Chicago - which we’ll get into. It was founded alongside Rick Bayless, a renowned Chicago chef who is largely credited with making Mexican food in the Midwest an accessible cuisine (that’s a very complicated thing to say, and those are my words, not Rick’s or Manny’s). And over the years, Rick brought that culinary mindset to craft beer as well, back when he created Marisol with Goose Island, a sort of citrusy, spiced wheat ale that’s a bit of a legend in Chicago. Then he partnered with Constellation Brands to produce Tocayo - a beer that was supposed to fit into that Blue Moon area of the market - and was intertwined in some complicated ways with the Cruz Blanca brewpub in the beginning - but mostly just because of the timing. Tocayo and Cruz Blanca shared a sort of launch story - even if they were separate ventures. So it’s important to clarify - I’m not sitting down with Rick Bayless, the chef and restauranteur today. I’m sitting down with Manny Valdez, Rick’s longtime partner in Frontera Foods, and the person who imagined and launched and is now independently building Cruz Blanca. A brewery with a story all its own - and mostly still ahead of it.

The last few months in the British beer industry have been tumultuous. Inspired by the brave work of Brienne Allan, Britshbeergirl – real name Siobhan Buchanan – used her instagram platform for British beer people to tell stories of sexism, sexual harassment and exploitation in the industry. Scandals rocked several much loved small breweries as well as some of the UK’s biggest – including BrewDog. My guest today, Charlotte Cook, started her career there, and while she left nearly seven years ago she is still affected by the experience – feeling strong enough about the situation at the Scottish brewery to be a signatory for Punks With Purpose, a campaign group focused on holding BrewDog’s owners and directors to account and ensuring positive change. Long before that though, Charlotte – now of Coalition Brewing – has been vocal about the exploitation of workers in the beer industry, and a keen advocate of unionisation. Her outspoken nature has resulted in her being interviewed on BBC Radio, and has also inevitably got her embroiled in several online spats. As is so common with grassroots movements, she never intended to become a voice for the industry but has found herself in the role because she refused to stay quiet. We talk about how that responsibility lies with her, how she deals with the abuse she receives, and what solutions there are to the problems that plague the brewing scene. We also talk about the profoundly different breweries she’s worked at during her 10 year career that also includes stints at Pohjala, Cloudwater, Hammerton and Trumans, as well as her new role as head brewer at London’s Coalition, the first time she’s joined a brewery at the very beginning of its journey.

As much as craft beer places value on authenticity and artistry, it’s not always an industry that likes looking backwards. Instead, the search for innovation—innovation in beer styles, in brewing techniques, and in the raw materials of beer—is what propels it forward. That means many older ways of doing things have been left by the wayside. On the malt side, with technological and agricultural advancements continuously improving crop yield and efficiency, are old-school brewing methods like decoction mashing even necessary anymore? Anthony Gladman thinks so. And he’s not alone. In his piece for Good Beer Hunting titled “Pillars of Tradition — How a New Generation of Brewers Returned to Decoction Mashing,” which was published on July 20, 2021 as part of our Age of Rediscovery series made in partnership with Menabrea, Gladman dives into the deeply historical Lager brewing tradition, and what it means to the current roster of brewers around the world. He admits there aren’t a ton of people devoted to decoction mashing today. But those who are often find themselves with beer that transcends the day-to-day and approaches true greatness.  In this podcast conversation, Gladman and I discuss the elusive definition of “drinkability” and what it means to him. We talk about the difference between “craft beer” and “crafted beer”—and there is a difference. We also unpack the perception of preciousness in brewing, and how it’s not the same as honoring time-tested traditions honed over generations. He reveals what led him to explore this largely under-discussed (but very appreciated) brewing technique, and the regret that he felt when COVID prevented him from sampling the work of modern-day decoction masters on their own turf. It’s a little bit of wanderlust, a dash of technical brewing talk, and a lot of fun.

Today’s guest is a rare revisit action with a previous guest - Phil McFarland from episode 25 - when he was on the even of shutting down what had been one of Chicago’s premier craft beer bars. The advertising career that gave way to his life as a craft beer bar operator was about to give way to something new - as he took on the sales director role at one of Chicago’s premier craft breweries, Half Acre, just as it was making a step change in its growth and ambition. That was then. Now, we’re meeting Phil after another big transition as he traded that role for one in Cannabis. And in this new role of Director of Innovation Acceleration, a lifetime of skill and experience is coming to bear on an industry with an unprecedented opportunity in the US - rapidly legalizing, evolving, and expanding, cannabis is a rare new frontier for beverage and packaged goods. How does Phil’s background in advertising, retailing, and sales direction parlay into the future of Cannabis? Well, we’ll try to connect the dots for you.

What’s in beer today? Unless you’re a brewer, do you know? I mean, do you really know? Usually, Western beer is made up of water, hops, a malted grain like barley, and yeast. That’s the standard answer you’ll get from books, articles, even podcasts. There’s even a famous law in German history, called the Reinheitsgebot, which decreed that proper beer could only contain those four ingredients. But few brewers outside Germany stick to that rule 100% of the time. When we want to get a little technical, we’ll talk about extra ingredients that are added for flavor or some other reason—everything from rice and corn; to herbs and spices; to chocolate, coffee, and the occasional jelly doughnut…hmm, maybe some rules are there for a reason. But if something else was in there…some other ingredient whose purpose you didn’t immediately recognize, maybe with a name that’s hard to pronounce…could you tell? Would you care? Do you have a right to know? Today’s episode is all about Americans whose food was changing so fast they struggled to keep up. Then beer changed too, so people wanted answers. And they got them. From brewers both reassuring and duplicitous. From temperance reformers and consumer activists with axes to grind, from newspapers acting as little more than gossip brokers, and from state and federal governments mulling over a Reinheitsgebot of their very own. The name of the game was adulteration, and it went on for more than half a century. This is “Name Your Poison,” the third and final episode of our debut series, “Lager Beer, Governing Bodies,” which looks at strange ways public health debates waded into a sea of American lager during the 1800s. If you haven’t already, check out Parts 1 and 2 of this series, where we explore 1850s arguments about whether lager beer could intoxicate a person, and simultaneous paranoia about whether deadly diseases like cholera could be caused by beer. As we’re about to see, debates over adulteration were fueled by the same mix of legitimate fear and paranoia, fact and propaganda, and political jockeying that bore out those other issues. But adulteration dialed everything up to eleven.

What is art? Throughout the course of human existence, critics, academics, and common people have all attempted to unpack the meaning and value of art as part of society, as well as its role as a reflection of the current discourse. Art can be political. It can be reflective. It can be a weapon. And it can be history in itself. In her latest piece for Good Beer Hunting, titled “Gin Lane vs. Beer Street — How One Artist Captured a Pivotal Century in Our Drinking History,” published on July 1, 2021, writer Courtney Iseman takes a look at how art has shaped the way we perceive and interact with alcohol from as early as the 17th century up to the present day, specifically focusing on 18th-century Europe.  For our podcast conversation, we talk about how beer was positively perceived by the middle and upper classes of the time. Working-class people, meanwhile, faced hand-wringing and public outcry for imbibing what was once considered a cheap and debaucherous beverage: gin. Iseman shares where she found the inspiration to dive into this piece after seeing an exhibit of Dutch masters at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Calling the writing process a “fever dream,” she wonders aloud about the 18th-century artist William Hogarth’s motives for creating the groundbreaking and not-so-subtle pair of prints that gave the piece its title.  We explore how alcohol plays into class lines and how consumption habits have evolved over the centuries. We also look at how both alcohol and art can divide as much as they can unite. She describes how the story unraveled—and how there’s still more to tell.

What happens when politics and public health intermix? We’ve spent the last year learning all too well that, unfortunately, just about anything can happen. And that’s always been the case. In the mid-1800s, when lager beer was still pretty new to the United States, Americans had to figure it out where it fit into a society that wasn’t much newer. The country was growing, it was urbanizing, it was incorporating new ethnicities and communities, and it was redefining morality almost by the day. All of these things came with public health challenges that were just as new. It didn’t take long for beer to get tangled up in the maelstrom. We’re kicking off the Source Material podcast with a 3-part series looking at some of the ways lager beer paired with questions of public health in 1800s America. In Part 1, we talked about a wave of legal battles that washed over the US during the 1850s as old ideas about drunkenness mixed with new American communities, new politics, and new drinking habits. Now, we’ll look at how those same factors led many Americans to associate lager beer with disease. During the cholera outbreaks of 1849 and 1866 in the United States, lager could be either the cause of, or solution to, a deadly epidemic. This is Lager Beer, Governing Bodies Part 2: ‘The Devil’s Chloroform.”

Holly Regan believes that we are all surrounded by opportunities to have transcendent experiences. As humans, we’re often prone to looking inward, thanks both to our egos as well as our desire to seek solace from the chaos and noise of the world. But when we’re able to tap into the beyond, through whatever means available, we have the potential to commune with each other, ourselves, and all creation beyond our sometimes-limited scope of perception. If this sounds a little woo-woo, that’s okay. Holly admits they’re a bit of a hippie, but that doesn’t make them wrong—far from it. In their piece “Psychedelic Pints — Finding Oneness Through Beer and Other Drugs,” which was published on June 23, 2021 on Good Beer Hunting, they manage to tie together the universality of seeking cosmic consciousness with how individual identity can influence the journey, as well as how the human experience can be shaped by mind-altering substances—from beer to hallucinogens—in both intentional and unintentional ways. In this conversation with Holly, they describe why—and how—they were called to write this piece, which they describe as the most challenging one they’ve ever attempted. In fact, in writing it, Holly found their own future transformed in ways they could have never imagined. The mere ritual of writing in and of itself opened them up to a new path: perhaps bringing the entire concept of oneness full circle. We discuss where (and how) they find God in every living thing; how ceremony and ritual can change people’s lives under the right circumstances; how trust, vulnerability, and an open mind can yield incredible results; and even what they consider the meaning of it all. It gets heavy at times. But by talking about what makes life worth living, Holly reveals their own personal truths and invites others to partake in the possibilities.  

While I cover the beer and beverage alcohol industries, I started from a simple place as an enthusiast. I was excited to drink different beers, then it was fun to homebrew, and eventually write about all those experiences. But for many people - perhaps most - beer is just beer. I can't tell you how many times I've had discussions with friends and family who ask about "beer flavored beer," and they're in the majority. So, what does it mean if we get the chance to share that passion and educate others? What kind of difference does that make for them, us, and the beer industry as a whole? In this conversation, Shawna Cormier and Jess Keller Poole give us some ideas and answers. The pair are the founders of Seattle Beer School, an events and education company, as well as long-time hospitality professionals, certified experts, and more. Perhaps above all else, they're passionate about beer and what it means to people. That enthusiasm is likely to rub off as you hear them describe why it's important to share that love, how you can talk to people to get them excited about beer, and how all this may be more important than ever as the industry works to become a more welcoming and inclusive space for all. Whether we realize it or not, beer connects to many aspects of our lives outside a bar or taproom, and Shawna and Jess offer all of us an important way to explore what that means through history, appreciation, and enthusiasm.

The overlaps between beer and whiskey are plentiful. Both rely on craftsmanship and quality ingredients, and share certain production methods in common. Modern makers in either category have the luxury of looking at tradition while pushing the boundaries of innovation for the future. But it’s the differences between the two that keep things interesting. Single malt whiskey producer Stranahan’s in Denver, Colorado is one such modern maker, one that’s helping to define the budding American single malt whiskey category against Scotch and other international players. A visit in 2018 led writer Gabby Pharms to dive into their process, history, and position as Colorado’s first new legal whiskey distillery since Prohibition for her latest piece in Good Beer Hunting titled “Whiskey and the Mile High City — The Distillery Making Single Malt in the Rocky Mountains,” which was published on June 16, 2021. In our conversation about her piece—which was written for our Beer and a Shot series, made in partnership with Miller High Life—Gabby reveals what led her to spotlight a producer who she feels is at the forefront of an American spirits revolution. Not only does their early entry into the category position Stranahan’s at the vanguard, but their literal mile high location also serves to shape their products in a unique way. In our conversation, Gabby discusses how she prefers her single malt whiskey (neat, or perhaps with one cube) and which beverages she tends to pair with barbecue (it’s not Light Lager, as I incorrectly presupposed). She also muses on what the future holds for American whiskey makers, finds some silver linings in the wake of COVID, and believes there’s truly a whiskey for everyone. If American single malt whiskey has a cheerleader, it’s Gabby Pharms.