When I’m doing prep for the interviews you hear on this podcast, I try to look across digital footprints for insights that help me gauge a person, their personality, and the kinds of questions I should ask. It’s all based on instinct and hope that my own impression from a distance gives me enough to offer you a meaningful conversation that introduces someone new or helps you gain a deeper appreciation for someone who’s familiar. Sometimes, the idea of a person I’m researching matches exactly who they are in our conversation, and that’s the case with Jesse Valenciana. As you’ll hear right away, the trail of breadcrumbs he leaves on social media and with his professional connections make it clear he cares deeply for his loved ones and his heritage. Jesse most recently worked as director of marketing for Kentucky’s Against the Grain Brewery—his time there ended after we recorded this podcast as part of budget cuts at the brewery. So, if you hear us talking about Against the Grain in the present tense in this conversation, that’s why. Jesse says it’s onward and upward for him and his career, however, which also includes a varied skill set: he’s also a food and beverage journalist, author, cook, and a person who seems to always consider how his past connects to his present in these roles. In this conversation, you’ll learn about all this, from his childhood visiting family in Mexico to how those roots shaped his personality and relationships, including the way his history and culture helps him view America’s craft beer industry. After years of working in beer, Jesse shares the way he’s been shaped by his own passions, microaggressions from others, and why it matters to the way he does his job now and in the future.  

You’re used to hearing about beer, but in this conversation, we’re pairing that topic with food. Brewpubs and beer-focused bars and restaurants across the country all have their particular takes on menus that incorporate the two. What you’ll hear momentarily shares philosophy and strategy around what people can expect from California’s Fort Point Beer Company, which features full-time culinary director Cecile Macasero. Cecile has worked at prestigious restaurants recognized with James Beard awards and Michelin stars. He’s organized menus for staff at Google. And as you’ll hear, the things he’s learned elsewhere have helped him conceptualize what food can provide to beer lovers when they visit Fort Point and what it means to create dishes that try to capture the spirit of San Francisco. Along with Cecile, we’re joined by Dina Dobkin, co-owner and chief brand officer at Fort Point, who sheds additional light on the ideas and processes to create a special on-premise experience for people who visit the brewery to drink and eat. Together, Cecile and Dina explain why it’s important to have a component of food at a taproom, how their family histories from outside the United States have shaped their own appreciation for food, and how beer and food can find a fun middle ground between what’s interesting and what’s easy to love.

It was 1922, and August A. Busch, Sr. needed a break. A long one. It turns out that running a gigantic brewing company like Anheuser-Busch during Prohibition was kind of stressful. And so, being the patriarch of one of the country's wealthiest family dynasties at the time, Busch did what dynasts do: he treated the word "summer" like a verb. On May 15th of that year, Busch boarded the SS George Washington, a passenger ship about half the size of the Titanic, bound for a three-month retreat at the family's country estate in western Germany. Now, we could all get a cheap laugh at the elitist image of Anheuser-Busch's president leaving his titan brewery so a luxury liner can whisk him away to his personal castle on a German hillside, but I urge you to resist the temptation. If you'd had the run that Busch had so far, you'd need a vacation too. Prohibition in the United States, which banned the manufacture, importation, transportation, and sale of alcoholic beverages nationwide, had been in effect for over two years now–which meant the beer that had built the Busch family's empire was illegal.  Many of the nation's thousand-ish breweries simply closed, but Anheuser Busch was one of the few that tried to survive in a post-beer country. And so far…it wasn't going well. The brewery was millions in the red, the products they made to replace beer weren't cutting it, and the government was failing spectacularly to contain the growing hordes of moonshiners and bootleggers across the country. But if you're going through hell, keep going. Whether it was pure faith or rational assessment, Busch believed that Prohibition wouldn't last forever. Even so, it was clearer every day that fighting the 18th Amendment would be a marathon, not a sprint. Which brings us back to the George Washington. Busch boarded and the ship set sail, but the George Washington was barely underway when Busch saw something shocking. As soon as the ship passed into international waters, and out of U.S. jurisdiction, the ship's staff threw open cabinets full of liquors, wines, and beer, and opened up a bar. Actually, they opened five bars, all over the ship. And because American alcohol producers, like Busch, had all been put out of business, the booze was entirely foreign in origin–even the so-called "Old American Moonshine Whiskey." As you might imagine, this made Busch a little angry. The George Washington, like many American passenger liners at the time, wasn't just some ship. It was owned and operated by the United States Shipping Board, a government agency. In other words, the government that was enforcing Prohibition on Americans was also slinging drinks on the side. August Busch wasn't about to take this lying down. The United States government had become, in his words, the "biggest bootlegger in the world," and everyone was going to know about it. In this episode, the strict impositions of Prohibition draws a once and future titan of the brewing industry, Busch, into a very public feud with Albert Lasker, an advertising guru turned reluctant chairman of the Shipping Board. Their battle over the right to sell alcohol at sea delighted a sensationalist media, put a finger on the scales of the 1922 congressional midterm elections, spurred a Supreme Court case, and laid bare the strange politics of the Prohibition era. As Prohibition expanded the size and reach of the U.S. government, it also kindled political conflicts that went far beyond the morality of drinking beer. In fact, Prohibition laid bare the complications involved in implementing, adapting to, or coping with high minded social concepts. Whether that idea is a controversial moral creed like banning alcohol, or a hopefully straightforward ideal like democracy, the devil will always be in the details.

What does a banana taste like? I want you to take a moment to consider it, whether you like them or not. As you think about unpeeling the fruit and taking a first bite, do you imagine something sweet? Maybe the texture is mushy. Is there a scene playing out in your mind? I promise this question isn’t for nothing, and in this conversation, you’ll eventually hear how one skilled brewer thinks about eating a banana he can only find in memory. Get ready to meet Rafael D’Armas, who came to homebrewing and the beer industry through a career that started in political science and international relations. Originally from Venezuela, you’ll hear how politics, history, and culture shaped his early assumptions of what he wanted to do for work, and then how a friend and some beer changed his mind. Rafael started in beer at New York City’s Bronx Brewery through an internship program made possible with Beer Kulture, a nonprofit working to foster a more inclusive beer industry, and is currently a brewer at Montclair Brewery in New Jersey. This fall, it was announced he received the Michael Jackson Foundation’s Sir Geoff Palmer Award for Brewing to attend the prestigious Siebel Institute of Technology, which has trained generations of some of the best brewers in the world. But all that is just background for the person you’ll come to understand Rafael to be as we talk about his home country, what it was like trading political science research for beer, what “innovation” means when it’s made personal … and bananas, of course. This is a chance to get to know an up-and-coming brewer who has unique and deep ideas of what beer can be, and how he wants to be a part of change.

Past is prelude, as they say, and it’s always interesting to find foreshadowings of our contemporary beer culture deep in the history books. Take monastery breweries, for example, which are some of the oldest beer makers in the world, with a tradition going back a thousand years or more. But not all monastery breweries date back quite so far. In fact, new ones are still opening up today—not often, of course, but at least occasionally, as at Mount Saint Bernard Abbey in Leicestershire, England, which only started brewing its beer, called Tynt Meadow, in 2018. In this episode, I’m talking to the beer writer Mark Dredge, who published a Signifier, “The More You Master Something, the More Free You Feel,” about the new monastery brewery at Mount Saint Bernard Abbey on October 19, 2022. But that’s not the only story Mark has done for us recently. His article “Lost in Translation — How Flavor Wheels and Tasting Tools Can Evolve to Speak with Global Beer Drinkers” was published on August 18, as part of our Next Germination series, made in partnership with Guinness.  If monastic brewing has centuries of backstory, then the topic of “Lost in Translation”—tasting notes, and the way we describe flavors in beer—is a much newer practice. As Mark explains, the comparative language we use to describe flavor mostly originated in the wine world in the 1970s. His story explores this evolution, and also questions how relevant those words and terms are for someone on a different continent, or in a different culture.  In this episode, we delve into both of Mark’s recent stories, and explore the possibility of updating flavor wheels and tasting tools for more modern—and more diverse—audiences. We also discuss monastic brewing, the rigors of monastic life, and Mark’s abiding interest in running, which leads into another article he’s been working on for us.

One of the wonderful and unique things about food and beverage is the ability to transcend time. Something with a long history and personal past can be made and shared today, connecting points in time in ways we never might have expected. In one of Good Beer Hunting's Next Germination stories—a series produced in partnership with Guinness—reporting from Anna Sulan Masing plays the part of time machine. For her piece, "A Land of Rice and History," she traces the background and cultural connections of tuak, a drink brewed from rice native to Malaysia. Tuak is rooted in ritual and memory and in this episode, you'll hear from Anna, the people making tuak lovingly referred to as "aunties," and business leaders trying to find ways to expand understanding of tuak and the opportunities for modern drinkers to enjoy it. We start with something that goes back into Anna's own background and highlights what can be next for herself and others.

You don’t have to be an in-the-weeds beer enthusiast to figure out there can be a whole lot of ways to make a beer. Just look at any taplist. There are different ingredients, fermentation options, ABVs, and plenty more spaces in which a brewer can play. When seeking any kind of flavor experience—guided by tradition or new ideas—there can be an endless array of choices to make. In this conversation, we meet with two of the beer world’s smartest minds to learn more about the research and development of beer at one of the country’s leading craft breweries. At Oregon’s Breakside Brewery, collaboration and innovation come together for Ben Edmunds, the company’s brewmaster, and Natalie Rose Baldwin, Breakside’s R&D brewer. Inspired by food, other beverages, and nature, the pair will share with us how they translate ideas from out in the world into a glass of beer and why it’s important to think about ingredients instead of just flavor. When it comes to creating a new beer, what does innovation mean today? And where do successful brewers look to consider what’s next? In a world full of Pastry Stouts and New England IPAs that can all feel sort of familiar, it’s brewers like these that get to run with fun, weird, and unique combinations of ingredients that can offer new experiences and ideas of how and when we can enjoy a beer.

If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? And if French women scream at the top of their lungs for acceptance, respect, and change, does anyone listen? That’s the question freelance writer Anaïs Lecoq set out to answer in her piece for Good Beer Hunting titled “Pas Encore — French Women Are Sick of Waiting for Their Beer Revolution,” which was published on October 20, 2022. In the piece, Anaïs describes the pervasive avoidance the French beer scene has towards conversations about sexual harrassment, violence, and assault when such conversations are initiated by women. When they do occur, they almost always end in litigation, ensuring that the current culture of fear, trauma, and repression continues to be the status quo. In fact, in our conversation today, she says the entire reason she wrote the piece is due to the fact that despite publishing an open letter signed by hundreds of women working in the French beer scene, they were met with virtual silence and apathy. What will actually get people to listen and make change, she wonders? I find myself wondering the same thing. You’re about to hear what she thinks it will take, as well as a recent bombshell she hopes might trigger a #MeToo movement similar to the one Brienne Allan instigated in the United States in 2021. However, Anaïs’ hope is clouded by pessimism when we discuss how even those efforts, once promising, have fizzled. Actions may start with words, but they shouldn’t end there, and she describes what actions need to be taken in order for the fledgling French beer scene to grow in such a way that everyone is valued. Let’s listen to what has happened, what’s happening, and what she thinks is about to happen. 

Sometimes it feels like everything that can be said about beer has been said. But then something comes along that fundamentally changes the way we think about a style, or our culture. For me, that recently took place with David Jesudason’s GBH story, Empire State of Mind – Interrogating IPA’s Colonial Identity.  Today’s hop-forward beers are so divorced from the original 18th century IPA that it’s rare to even hear the acronym spelled out – India Pale Ale. And until now, I’d never given much thought to how the marketing of IPA could reflect our modern understanding of empire – or lack thereof.  Empire State of Mind combines personal storytelling with historical reporting, and in the space of a few thousand words, IPA goes from a symbol of craft beer’s revolution to one of colonialist invasion, exploitation and erasure. The article was mostly born out of David’s frustrations at having to educate himself about this important and dark part of British history.

What’s new is old and what’s old is precious in a small corner of southern England, where writer and journalist Jacopo Mazzeo takes us on a tour of the wild and sprawling New Forest National Park. In his latest piece for Good Beer Hunting titled “Curiouser and Curiouser — In Search of Brewing Novelty In England’s Ancient New Forest,” which was published on October 13, 2022, he explores the ancient landscape with a local’s eye, sharing the natural beauty and growing beer scene through personal experience, community connection, and research into the nearly thousand-year history of the region.  In today’s conversation with Jacopo, he shares how the COVID-19 pandemic forced him to look closer to home for travel inspiration, which led to fortuitous results. Growing up in Italy, the countryside wasn’t as accessible to him as it is in the United Kingdom, the country he’s made his home over the past 11 years. That’s why he treasures the nearby New Forest, a historical area he continues to be drawn to time and time again. He talks about that draw of nature, as well as why he keeps coming back to experience the growing craft beer scene first-hand.  He’ll also share a few insider tidbits that didn’t quite make it into his final piece, as well as where he’s headed next as the world slowly continues to reopen. (I’ll just say his upcoming trips to Lebanon and the Seychelles sound deliciously libatious.) Let’s start our journey into this rustic wonderland, right now.