StyleZeitgeist Podcast

Derek Guy, a renowned writer and fashion commentator, dives deep into the changing landscape of menswear. He reflects on the nostalgia of fashion forums versus today's social media chaos. The conversation uncovers the roots of masculine shame in fashion, critiques the cost of fast fashion, and champions vintage clothing as a powerful form of self-expression. Derek emphasizes the importance of craftsmanship over consumerism, urging a return to considered consumption and the revival of tailoring and DIY repair to combat modern fashion woes.

On this episode we speak with Lorenzo Osti, the son of Massimo Osti, about the life and legacy of his father, the pioneer of modern men’s fashion. We talk about Osti’s design ethos, work methods, and innovations, and how the newly established brand Massimo Osti Studio carries on Osti’s legacy today.Support the show

On this episode we review the Fall/Winter 2024 fashion season in Milan and Paris, including the Alexander McQueen debut and the feedback it has received, the state of Balenciaga and Demna, Ann Demeulemeester, Sacai, and more. Philippe shares thoughts on his new favorite brand, Hodakova, and we talk about why the Dior show was an ad, why the smaller brands like Gaucherre and Lutz Huelle are important, and much more. The question of the day, considering the debuts we have witnessed over the last twelve months - is the new generation capable of producing a great designer?Support the show

On this episode we speak with Natasha Degen, Professor and Chair, Art Market Studies, Fashion Institute of Technology about the uneasy symbiosis of fashion and art that she examines in depth in her recent book Merchants of Style: Art and Fashion After Warhol,. We talk about the encroachment of corporate luxury fashion on the art world with Warhol as the pivotal figure, the degradation of the art museum, art and fashion collaborations, Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby, Marc Jacobs and Takashi Murakami, Virgil Abloh and Pharrell, Bernard Arnault's and Francois Pinault's forays into art as the new Medici, and what is lost when art becomes sponsored by the private sector and consumed by the masses.Support the show

On this episode we are back with Philippe to discuss this past men’s season shows at Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris. We talk about the contrast between Luca Magliano and S.S. Daley, Gucci, Prada, and Zegna (best of season in Milan), why Rick Owens was the show of the season and Yohji Yamamoto was a letdown, the continued elegance of Dries Van Noten, and Rei Kawakubo’s uncharacteristic feeling of lightness, Hermès’ uncompromising quality, why the Japanese newcomers TAAKK and MASU (not covered by Vogue Runway, but covered by us) made Paris exciting, and which small brands we loved and why we are going to lean into supporting smaller brands this year. We wonder out loud, how bad can Louis Vuitton and Dior get? We cheat a little in the end by discussing Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal show, because how could we not?!Support the show

On this episode we speak with Maria Wiesner, the styles editor of Frankfurt Allgemiene Zeitung and the author of a book about the life and work of Jil Sander (published earlier this year in German by HarperCollins). We discuss the formative years of the Queen of Minimalism, how Bauhaus and Hamburg honed her aesthetic, how her trail-blazing, uncompromising vision of minimalism paid off handsomely in the ‘80s and the ‘90s, and her ill-fated deal with Prada.Support the show

On this episode we discuss the work of Phoebe Philo and the role she has played in defining contemporary fashion, the aesthetic direction and the business model of her new eponymous brand as compared to her work at Celine, the reception of the first two drops, and what the future holds.Support the show

We are back with our regular guest Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Spring / Summer 2024 women’s season. We discuss in depth the debuts of Peter Do at Helmut Lang, Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, and Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester. We talk about the brilliant Undercover outing (spoiler alert: best of season!), Sacai, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Prada, and many other shows.Support the show

On this episode we speak with Julie Zerbo, the founder of the Fashion Law, a fashion media outlet dedicated to fashion, law, business, and industry analysis. Her being a lawyer by education, we find Julie's perspective on fashion both original and pertinent. We talk about Julie's professional journey, the obstacles she faces running an independent publication, and her views on the current state of fashion.Support the show

We are back with the journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss the recently finished Spring/Summer 2024 fashion season. We review shows from Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris, including Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Sacai, and more, and we discuss Pharrell's Louis Vuitton debut.Support the show