

StyleZeitgeist Podcast
Eugene Rabkin
Fashion Counterculture
Episodes
Mentioned books

Feb 6, 2024 • 1h 42min
Paris Fashion Week F/W 24 Men’s with Philippe Pourhashemi
On this episode we are back with Philippe to discuss this past men’s season shows at Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris. We talk about the contrast between Luca Magliano and S.S. Daley, Gucci, Prada, and Zegna (best of season in Milan), why Rick Owens was the show of the season and Yohji Yamamoto was a letdown, the continued elegance of Dries Van Noten, and Rei Kawakubo’s uncharacteristic feeling of lightness, Hermès’ uncompromising quality, why the Japanese newcomers TAAKK and MASU (not covered by Vogue Runway, but covered by us) made Paris exciting, and which small brands we loved and why we are going to lean into supporting smaller brands this year. We wonder out loud, how bad can Louis Vuitton and Dior get? We cheat a little in the end by discussing Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal show, because how could we not?!Support the show

Dec 22, 2023 • 1h 39min
On Jil Sander with Maria Wiesner
On this episode we speak with Maria Wiesner, the styles editor of Frankfurt Allgemiene Zeitung and the author of a book about the life and work of Jil Sander (published earlier this year in German by HarperCollins). We discuss the formative years of the Queen of Minimalism, how Bauhaus and Hamburg honed her aesthetic, how her trail-blazing, uncompromising vision of minimalism paid off handsomely in the ‘80s and the ‘90s, and her ill-fated deal with Prada.Support the show

Dec 12, 2023 • 1h 8min
On Phoebe Philo with Philippe Pourhashemi
On this episode we discuss the work of Phoebe Philo and the role she has played in defining contemporary fashion, the aesthetic direction and the business model of her new eponymous brand as compared to her work at Celine, the reception of the first two drops, and what the future holds.Support the show

Oct 13, 2023 • 1h 53min
Paris Fashion Week S/S 24 Women’s with Philippe Pourhashemi
We are back with our regular guest Philippe Pourhashemi to review the Spring / Summer 2024 women’s season. We discuss in depth the debuts of Peter Do at Helmut Lang, Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, and Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester. We talk about the brilliant Undercover outing (spoiler alert: best of season!), Sacai, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Prada, and many other shows.Support the show

Sep 15, 2023 • 1h 22min
The Fashion Law and More with Julie Zerbo
On this episode we speak with Julie Zerbo, the founder of the Fashion Law, a fashion media outlet dedicated to fashion, law, business, and industry analysis. Her being a lawyer by education, we find Julie's perspective on fashion both original and pertinent. We talk about Julie's professional journey, the obstacles she faces running an independent publication, and her views on the current state of fashion.Support the show

Jul 7, 2023 • 1h 13min
Paris Fashion Week S/S 24 Men’s with Philippe Pourhashemi
We are back with the journalist and critic Philippe Pourhashemi to discuss the recently finished Spring/Summer 2024 fashion season. We review shows from Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris, including Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Sacai, and more, and we discuss Pharrell's Louis Vuitton debut.Support the show

May 23, 2023 • 1h 2min
Is This the End of the Hype Era?
On this hot-take episode with Philippe Pourhashemi we discuss the recent firings of Ludovic de Saint Sernin from Ann Demeulemeester and Rhuigi Villasenor from Bally and their implications. We speak about hype versus talent, what makes the right fit between a creative director and a brand, the relationship between management and creative, brand building and reputational risk, and much more.Support the show

May 5, 2023 • 1h 12min
On Karl Lagerfeld with Amy Odell
We reconnect with the journalist Amy Odell to discuss the problematic legacy of Karl Lagerfeld, the late designer of Chanel, and the new exhibit devoted to his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. We try to answer one of the central questions of creativity - can you separate the art from the artist? - and dive into other aspects of Lagerfeld's life and work.Support the show

Apr 21, 2023 • 1h 57min
All of Your Business with Lauren Sherman
Our guest is Lauren Sherman, former senior correspondent at the Business of Fashion, a top-notch reporter whose no-nonsense writing cuts through much of the industry noise. We discuss why fashion journalism used to be a much richer field, why honest reporting is beneficial to fashion, why it’s imperative for a brand to develop a core audience, why LVMH excels at retaining talent, why brick and mortar retail matters, and talk about her new and exciting role at Puck News.Support the show

Apr 6, 2023 • 2h 19min
Why Speaking Up Matters with James Scully
We speak with the casting director James Scully about his trajectory of working in fashion, from his days at the iconic New York boutique Charivari in the ‘80s to his days at Harper’s Bazaar and the changes he witnessed while being there, to becoming one of the best casting agents in the fashion industry; his whistle blowing on the rampant abuse of models and the changes it engendered. James’s is a brilliant story of working his way up in fashion through sheer love of it and his talent. It is also an important one because it provides a rare glimpse of what goes on under the hood of the fashion industry. Support the show