The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
Episodes
Mentioned books
Aug 18, 2025 • 1h 43min
#171 Alex Honnold — The Lack Of Danger In The Modern Era, Being Unencumbered By What-Ifs, and Choosing A Life Based On Psyche
Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world. Enjoy this chat with one of greats.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Aug 11, 2025 • 2h 2min
Board Talk #2 — The Best Board Session Ever, 2024 MoonBoard Deep Dive, and What Makes A Board Problem ‘Good’
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua HorsleyTHIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55 degree MoonBoardBen Kim’s First Time on the TB2 MirrorBen Moon and Sam Prior on the 2024 MoonBoardBoard accounts mentioned (MoonBoard Focused Instagrams): @jessieisboard, @steve_radar4, @daradar_boards, @good_condies, @40degreelogbook, @cool.board.climbsOrganic ClimbingJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Aug 4, 2025 • 1h 56min
#170 Ravioli Biceps — How Board Climbing Transfers To Outdoors, The Magic Of Completionism, Overcoming Stopper Moves and Zooming In On Movement
Ravioli Biceps! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jul 28, 2025 • 1h 21min
#169 ‘Good Temps' 3 — WC Season In Full Swing, World’s First 8C Flash?!, Pushing It To The Limit, and Rocklands FOMO
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Today’s episode covers:The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent)Yannick Flohe’s World’s First 8C Flash (or was it?)The Pro’s and Con’s of Pushing Things To The Absolute LimitFOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in RocklandsJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jul 21, 2025 • 2h 31min
#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens
Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up).On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers.This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jul 14, 2025 • 2h 13min
#167 ‘Board Talk’ — A Recurring Board Focused Podcast With Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley
Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk’ podcast!Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley.Some topics covered in this episode are:Board Lords episodes 6 and 7 Recent Moon YouTube on the OG board (2010!)Are Boards Morpho?Ethics and Style on BoardsThe WORLDS FIRST confirmed V15 on a BoardThe MOST repeated climb of any kind in the world.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Michael Rosato’s InstagramBoard Lords #6Board Lords #7OG Moonboard VideoMadrock Climbing, This Episode’s SponsorJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jul 7, 2025 • 1h 51min
#166 Wheel Rock — Noah Does Two V17’s, Benn Explains The V17 Grade, Turning Pro, and Execution At The Highest Level
Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod! Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world.Also we get into Board Lord’s Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Noah Wheeler’s InstagramBenn Wheeler’s InstagramWheel Rock PatreonWheel rock YouTube ChannelWheeler Brother’s Testpiece EpisodeBoard Lords Episode #7Tension ClimbingJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jun 30, 2025 • 2h 5min
#165 ‘Good Temps’ 2 — Brooke Does Excalibur [15c], Ondra Flashes E11, Mt. Doom’s [V17] Aesthetic’s Matter, Actual Progression Of The Sport, and ‘First Dab Ascent’
In a lively discussion, climbing veterans Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, and Austin Hoyt celebrate Brooke Rabatou's historic female ascent of Excalibur (15c) and Adam Ondra's impressive E11 flash. They dive into the evolving aesthetics of climbing, emphasizing the shift from pure difficulty to appreciating beauty in routes. Not shying away from challenges, they also tackle the controversial 'first dab ascent' debate, reflecting on ethics and progression in the sport. Their insights blend humor with knowledge, making for an engaging chat on climbing's dynamic landscape.
Jun 23, 2025 • 1h 52min
#164 Obe Carrion — “We Are Bouldering”, What Winning Comps Used To Represent, 'Rock Star' Parties, and Designing Dope Gear
Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering.Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock’s motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Obe Carrion’s InstagramRampageMadrock Climbing, This Episode’s SponsorJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Jun 16, 2025 • 2h 14min
#163 Michael Rosato — Board Lords, Board Culture, Standardized Vs Spray, The Future Of Boards, and Board Grading
Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord’ series on their YouTube Channel.Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2.Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards.This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Michael’s InstagramTestpiece Episode #102 with the Tension CrewJosh and Tim Trying The TB2Organic ClimbingJoin Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
