The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Date: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types: In-person training with a coach one-on-one Online training with a coach one-on-one Online training without a coach one-on-one Hopefully this will shed some light on what you should do for yourself if you're confused about what option to go with.  More Details about The Talk Cost of each option Who should definitely get one-on-one work Who could benefit from an online training program New upcoming training options on TrainingBeta Want Help With Your Training? If you're one of those people who could benefit from a pre-made training program, these are our most popular programs created by Kris Peters. They're about $15/month and you get 3 unique workouts every week.  Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript  Coming soon! m6bgj7z6

Date: July 11th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joe Kinder This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He's well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag. Joe, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky recently completed the BD Training Bootcamp, where they lived and trained together in Golden, CO for several weeks at a time while being coached by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. They all saw a lot of success after the bootcamp sessions, and I talked to Joe about what he accomplished after the bootcamp and how he's changing his overall training because of it.     About Our Talk In this interview we talked about his history with climbing, growing up with Dave Graham, why he develops routes, training, diet, and lots more.   BD bootcamp results Route development Moonboard training Making a living as a sponsored athlete Diet and alcohol Goals of 5.15 Joe Kinder Links Joe's experience with the BD Bootcamp (Video) Joe sending Maquina Muerte in Spain, 5.14d  (Video) Joe in 30 Days in Norway (Video) Joe on Instagram Joe on Facebook Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript   Coming soon!

Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week. More Details about The Talk Quickie power endurance drills When to do circuit training Don't forget about abs! Climbing should be the focus Freebie Home Workout This workout is the same one I posted on the last Ask Kris episode about efficient home workouts, but I figured it's pertinent to this episode, too. So if you didn't do it last time, go get it this time! This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training? Each of these training programs contains workouts that are 2 hours or less in duration 3 days per week. We tried to cater to those people who don't have all day to train. They'll get you stronger and more fit without breaking your soul ;) Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Transcript  Coming soon!

About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls. He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber. Joshua’s progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to the crag, work, and a new addition to the family. Certifications and Degrees Joshua’s certifications include NSCA CSCS, NASM PES, SFG Level 2, FMS Level 1, and he completed his undergraduate degree at BGSU in exercise science and completed his graduate work at UGA in motor behavior. Articles by Joshua Rucci on TrainingBeta Joshua is passionate about strength and conditioning as well as climbing, and he's written a good handful of articles for TrainingBeta. Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days? Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 2: Readiness Monitoring Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 3: Efficient Training  Skill Acquisition and Technique How Breathing Can Increase Your Strength and Power  Periodized Training for Climbing Through his blog entries he hopes to bring the two worlds together to help climbers utilize the science and practical training that he employs with his athletes. About Our Talk In this interview we covered a lot of bases, including how training for gymnastics relates with training for climbing, and much more... Climbers generally lack regimented training, as opposed to other sports Doing more isn't necessarily better How long it takes to see results Why strength training is so important in every sport Will you bulk up if you lift? Kettlebell workout for you Climbing drills for different levels of climbers Should you train to failure or is that dumb? Joshua Rucci Links Joshua at University of Georgia - Athens (bio) Joshua climbing (vimeo) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home.  He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home.  More Details about The Talk How to train with only rings and a few weights How to train with a home wall The optimal home set-up Several workouts you can do at home Freebie Home Workout This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this... Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes) Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability) Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary. Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6 Enjoy! Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment of sports-related injuries. Before he was a surgeon, he worked as a mountaineer and a climbing guide, so he knows a lot about what climbers actually do with their bodies, unlike many other orthopedic docs.  In our experiences with him, he's taken our climbing goals into strong consideration when deciding how to treat our shoulders, making sure to give us the best chances of fully recovering as possible. He uses what seem to be the most advanced and specialized techniques in arthroscopic surgery, and he discusses the fact that some other docs are falling behind in that regard. More About Our Talk The most common injuries in climbers, and how to treat them How to find the best surgeon for your shoulder The differences between his techniques and the old ways The different surgeries for different injuries Recovery times and what to expect What you really can and can't tell from an MRI Alternative treatments for shoulder injuries Dr. Tom Hackett Links Dr. Hackett's website: www.doctorhackett.com Dr. Hackett on "The Dr.'s" as one the "Most Beautiful Male Doctors in America" (Video) Dr. Hackett on the U.S. Snowboarding team (article) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity.  In terms of lactic acid, we talk about: how you can increase your lactic acid threshold how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do what to do with that information and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing  One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor. Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about: how to train with a heart rate monitor at what level of your max heart rate you should be training what kinds of workouts you can do to train at difference percentages of your max how monitoring your heart rate helps you avoid overtraining This was one of my favorite talks with Kris because it's one of the few training tactics in climbing that are completely numbers-based and easily tracked and monitored. I hope you get something out of this one! I'm looking into getting a heart rate monitor right now myself... Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program   Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp.   These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport.  More About Our Talk How she trained for the Nose and other climbs The significance of FFA's Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps Her weight lifting records How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn Motherhood and how it changed her climbing Lynn Hill Links Lynn's website: www.lynnhillclimbing.com Lynn's Instagram: @_linacolina_ Lynn on David Letterman (Video) Lynn on the Nose (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need.  Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a training program The emotional effects of training and overtraining Sugar cravings, hunger, and overtraining Kris's Programs Have Rest Built In To Them All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have rest built into every 6-week cycle so that you don't and overtrain. He knows all too well that not resting enough creates injuries, exhaustion, and burnout. In each 6-week cycle, you actually do 5 weeks of training and 1 week of active resting (meaning, you don't take the entire week off if you don't want to - you just don't train hard during that time). If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online  Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)  

About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend warrior, and he puts in long hours of training most weeks in order to stay super fit.  Ryan is a Rab athlete, and we recently teamed up with Rab to get you a 20% discount on their stuff. Get the discount here.  More About Our Talk What is mixed climbing and where do we draw the line between mixed and sport? Work/life balance His intense 30-minute sessions Exactly how he trains How his vegetarian diet affects his climbing Why the M Scale is "weird" Ryan Vachon Links Ryan's work website: earth-initiatives.org Ryan's Instagram: @nerd_in_nature A recap of Ouray with footage of Ryan winning this year (Video) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.