The Modern Retail Podcast

Another year has come and gone, and big changes came to the retail industry.Giants like Shopify and Amazon grew even bigger, while older retail models like department stores suffered. Meanwhile, online brands saw big growth but faced their own unique set of headwinds. And newcomers, like fast fashion mobile app Shein, became more of an everyday staple.This week on the Modern Retail Podcast, we decided to take a look back and dive into some of the most important issues we wrote about over the last twelve months. Reporters Maile McCann and Saqib Shah as well as managing editor Anna Hensel all dove into the topics they thought drove 2021's retail narratives.These storylines give some insight into what’s ahead. Online strategies remain top of mind for companies both big and small. Meanwhile, people are discovering products in new ways.

Oats Overnight, a spoon-free, protein-based drinkable oatmeal, has been made in-house since the company began. Founder and CEO Brian Tate started Oats Overnight in 2016 out of his kitchen, and after about a year of formula development, began selling the bottled oats via the brand’s website.Part of the decision to vertically integrate production was due to difficulties Tate found in securing manufacturers for the product’s unique formula. “At a very, very early stage, we opted to do it [production] ourselves for the flexibility,” Tate said on the Modern Retail podcast.Fast forward five years, Oats Overnight has a growing customer base and new partnerships with Wegmans, Whole Foods and The Fresh Market. The brand tripled its active direct-to-consumer subscribers – from 10,000 to 42,000 – during 2021. This year, the company is up 150% in revenue year-over-year, hitting $25 million in sales in November.As a result, the company’s existing 20,000 square foot Arizona plant wasn’t cutting it. With that came the need to upgrade to a bigger oats-blending plant, said Tate.This year the company has grown to over 100 employees – including 40 on the production line – and is in the process of moving to a 50,000 square foot facility. But running a food plant isn’t as simple as it seems, and requires a lot of financial capital and labor to run smoothly, Tate explained.This conversation is part of Modern Retail’s Chain Reactions series, in which we explore the quick and long-term investments retail brands are making amid the supply chain woes.

As securing space on container ships gets more expensive, brands are coming up with creative ways to make sure their products take up less space.One such company is DTC luggage brand Paravel. Since launching in late 2016, the company has been working on ways to reduce its carbon footprint and optimize its freight routes. One reason for this is because the majority of Paravel’s products are made across Asia and in Italy -- two hubs that experienced delays during the pandemic. These delays prompted co-founders Indré Rockefeller and Andy Krantz to get creative with Paravel’s container packing methods.Instead of shipping empty suitcases, in the past year the company created a packing consolidation program for its manufacturing and loading crew. This process entails nesting Paravel suitcases and carry-on bags inside each other before being shipped to the U.S. While this requires a lot of coordination between manufacturers and offshore logistics, the results are worth the planning, co-founder and CEO Krantz said on the Modern Retail Podcast. This program is also influencing Paravel’s future product design and configurations. “There’s an element of innovation and spatial consideration that this process has introduced and made tangible for everyone on the team,” Krantz said. “From our production and product development folks, to our marketers, to our finance and operation teams.” This conversation is part of a series, called Chain Reactions, in which Modern Retail explores the quick and long-term investments brands are making to minimize their supply chain woes.

International manufacturing continues to create headaches for American brands. For card and board game maker Exploding Kittens, producing the majority of its products in China has had a domino effect on its overall distribution process. “We’ve had challenges for two years now,” Carly McGinnis, head of production, sales and logistics at Exploding Kittens, said on the Modern Retail Podcast. That’s mainly because “about 90 to 95% of all of our goods are produced in China,” she said.In 2020, Exploding Kittens’ initial challenges were not so much with production or freight coming out of China -- but more so with shuttered warehouses domestically. This year, like many others, Exploding Kittens’ logistics team is dealing with double the manufacturing timetables, as well as bottlenecks at California’s ports. The company has experimented with manufacturing in other places over the years. “We’ve produced things in Poland in the past, but China just offers efficiency, quality materials and speed to market like no other location worldwide for us,” said McGinnis. “So we’ve been tremendously reliant on China since the beginning of the company.” Still, the accumulating issues have led the company, which launched in 2009, to look for production facilities outside of China -- starting with Mexico and Poland. Furthermore, it’s exploring more trucking routes from alternative import ports, like Seattle, Washington. While these alternatives have their own downsides, McGinnis said it’s important to continue diversifying away from a rigid supply chain. This conversation is part of a series, called Chain Reactions, in which Modern Retail explores the quick and long-term fixes brands are making to minimize their supply chain woes.

If a boutique wants to carry products from handbag maker Scout, they are going to have to plan ahead. In mid-2020, Scout transitioned to a pre-book wholesale model, which entails giving retailers an opportunity to secure their orders “almost a year in advance,” founder Deb Waterman Johns said on the Modern Retail Podcast’s new series: Chain Reactions. Previously, Scout took retail orders on an as-needed basis and by estimating demand for their upcoming seasonal designs. “It’s a commitment on our part, as well as on their part,” she said of the upfront booking and payment transactions, Waterman Johns said.Wholesale retailers are a major part of the company’s business. Scout, which launched in 2004, and sells its handbags across roughly 50 stores, including local boutiques, gift shops and drugstores.This episode is the first in a series where Modern Retail explores the quick fixes brands are making as a result of the supply chain craziness experienced over the last year-plus. Chain Reactions will dig deep into short-term decisions that had longer-term effects. For Scout, its big change was to the way it handles orders.Waterman Johns said that because of the pandemic’s impact on these smaller accounts, Scout wanted to create a better system for wholesale orders. The shuttering and restructuring of many boutiques and gift shops -- where Scout sells its tote designs -- prompted Scout to want to better understand how it produces and distributes its inventory to wholesale partners, Waterman Johns said.For a business, selling out of products is usually a great thing. However, Waterman Johns said the company wanted to transition into a more efficient “newer normal,” in which Scout ensures its retail partners have access to the merchandise they want while the brand has better insight into its in-demand styles and patterns.  So far, the results have been positive, Waterman Johns said. With advanced pre-booking, Scout can also better communicate inventory volume to its overseas manufacturers. Whereas previously, the company was “guesstimating” its wholesale demand (and selling off excess to off-price retailers in later seasons), the new pre-book model has helped avoid over or underestimating demand.

Yelitsa Jean-Charles says she was able to grow her business by being authentic.Jean-Charles is the founder and CEO of Healthy Roots Dolls, which makes toys that represent more diverse backgrounds. “I never really had dolls that look like me growing up,” she said. So, she designed Healthy Roots’ first product, Zoe, which Jean-Charles described as “a little brown girl with kinky curly hair.”Zoe was first devised in 2014 as part of a school project. In 2018, Jean-Charles launched a Kickstarter that raised $50,000. Earlier this year, the company raised a $1 million seed round. And, this past October, Healthy Roots landed in over 1,200 Target locations. Jean-Charles joined the Modern Retail Podcast this week and talked about the company’s journey.Jean-Charles was able to grow the company by posting about her life and experiences. “I talk about loving yourself, I talk about hair, I post selfies, I post about my traction with my company,” she said, “I think it’s really authentic and it clicks with people.” In her eyes, that authenticity part is key. “I don’t think there’s any formula to going viral other than consistency and great content that speaks to a broad audience,” she said.Even so, virality presents a double-edge sword. “Going viral is terrible,” she said. “You run out of inventory, you don’t know when it’s going to be back.” Indeed, when a post of hers went viral earlier this year, Healthy Roots was already sold out of stock. She decided to use the moment as a way to gather preorders. While people waited for their dolls to get in stock, Healthy Roots provided updates. “We started doing Facebook Lives, Instagram lives, sending weekly updates,” Jean-Charles said. “We wrapped it around a narrative of Zoe coming back from a trip.” True, Zoe was at sea, but she wasn’t exactly sailing on a cruise boat -- more of a container ship.These touches are what have helped Healthy Roots grow. For now, it’s focused on one doll and its accessories. But Jean-Charles sees a bright future. “I think it would be a disservice to not explore every opportunity that presents itself to tell a story and connect with children,” she said.

It’s a good time to be an outdoor apparel brand.According to NPD Group, outdoorwear sales are up 45% this year, and some brands have been able to dominate this growing fervor. Teva, the shoe brand known for its velcro strapped sandal, has seen sales grow. In the ’80s, when the sandals first hit the market, Teva was the leader in the space. Then, after a couple decades of dominance, fervor died down, as other competitors like Chacos and Keens began to encroach on its territory. But over the last three years the company has been focused on reemerging as a footwear leader.“In short order,” said Anders Bergstrom, Teva’s global general manager, “we’ve retaken the number one position in sport sandals.”Bergstrom joined the Modern Retail Podcast and spoke about how he’s been handling all the curveballs thrown over the last few years. Teva -- which is pronounced ‘teh-vah,’ not ‘tee-vah’ -- has been around since 1985. “The idea -- the notion -- of a sport sandal did not exist until 1985,” said Bergstrom. Teva, he explained, was the first of its kind. “What Teva did was introduce an active component to the sandal category in a way that had not been done before,” he said.That has been the North Star for the brand -- and it’s long been associated with its well-known classic style. But the brand has been staying relevant with new styles and even brand collaborations. Some partnerships include the singer Jhené Like, Outdoor Voices and Cotpaxi. “The sport sandal itself is so iconic -- it’s so unusual -- that, for lack of a better term, collab partners just have a field day tweaking it,” said Bergstrom. “It’s not a blank canvas -- it is just a number of straps that are attached to a midsole.”What also has kept Teva relevant of late is the fact that a certain type of outdoor apparel has become quite fashionable. What some describe gorpcore -- which includes outdoor classics like Patagonia vests and hiking boots -- has become all the rage in New York fashion circles. Said Bergstrom, the way to know a fashion trend is on the horizon is to look at what’s going on in Japan. “What we call gorpcore is really just the way people in Tokyo dress, said Bergstrom. “It’s really fascinating.”He went on to explain how this has led to a new apparel adage. “If we ever have a question about whether a product is going to work or not, [ask] can you see it on the streets of Tokyo?”

For Corkcicle, the company’s mantra is to focus on innovation through partnerships.The company, which makes a variety of consumption-focused products like cups, travel mugs and wine coolers, has spent the last decade expanding the types of items it makes. And over the last few years, its business has really begun to ramp up.Sales have been growing year-over-year and, according to CEO Chris McDonough, the company is nearing $100 million in annual revenue. Much of that is thanks to some big-time partnerships Corkcicle has inked over the last few years. For example, the company has worked with Disney on a variety of capsule collections for both Star Wars and Marvel franchises. It’s also worked with bigger names in the art world like Basquiat.“It’s moved on a lot from its original days, as I think about the size and scale of the company and some of those partnerships,” said McDonough on the Modern Retail Podcast. “But that DNA of innovation and pushing those boundaries really lives through every day within the business.”On this week’s program, McDonough spoke about how the company thinks about product expansion, as well as the ways it works with partners. One of his big focuses is on constant newness. “We’ve got a very defined brand positioning,” he said. “We have eight areas of innovation -- category expansion that we’ve identified... and within those eight verticals, what we’ve done is mapped out an innovation pipeline for the next three years.”In short, McDonough is focused on making sure Corkcicle is expanding and scaling for years to come.The past two years have been difficult to deliver on such ambitions. Much of that is due to supply constraints and other pandemic-related hiccups. Still, McDonough said Corkcicle was still able to grow and deliver on its promises.One of the most important ways the brand has stayed successful amid these challenges was by being upfront and candid with its business partners. “What we’ve had to do is just keep really open lines of communication,” he said. Rather than put our head in the sand, we’re just really open with retail partners.”

Telemedicine has taken the human world by storm, and Joe Spector thinks the next frontier is pets.Spector is the founder and CEO of Dutch, which offers telehealth services for pet owners -- connecting them with veterinarians virtually. He has some experience in this space as Spector is a co-founder of Hims -- another DTC telemedicine startup best known for its balding and erectile disfunction over-the-counter services.According to Spector, there’s a huge white space for pet care. “I just realized all this innovation that I was a part of on the human side [with Hims] just has not translated at all on the pet side,” he said on the Modern Retail Podcast.So, he decided to bring some of his expertise to the pet care space. Dutch launched this year and is still relatively limited in its coverage. It is available in eight states and offers support for behavioral issues like anxiety and skin issues like rashes for both dogs and cats. “We’ll be growing to having national coverage pretty soon,”One of the big hurdles he’s overcoming is red tape and protectionism. One may think that pet health regulations are more lax than those for humans, but Spector says that’s just not true. His mission, he said, is going state by stating and “changing that red tape.”It’s a playbook he’s familiar with, but that doesn’t make it easier. Right now, his focus is on making both customers and pet health professionals trust Dutch and understand the brand. “The ethos of the company is health care and actually solving the problem,” he said.

During the pandemic, most people sought comfort -- and many of them turned to weighted blankets.Bearby, which makes knitted weighted blankets, saw sales grow more around 5x in 2020. This year, things aren’t slowing down. According to founder and CEO Kathrin Hamm, revenue is on track to double in 2021. “It has been quite a ride,” she said on the Modern Retail Podcast.Though Bearaby considers itself primarily a direct-to-consumer brand -- most of its sales come from its owned online channel -- it has had an interesting distribution trajectory. Only a few months after first launching in 2018, the company inked a deal with West Elm. Since then, the partnership has grown to more Williams-Sonoma brands, and Bearaby has continued to increase its retail footprint with other retailers like Nordstrom.Even with these partnerships, the majority of Bearaby’s sales come from online. And Hamm said she wants to keep it this way, because of product education. “When I had my first weighted blanket, there was no education around it -- it was like, here’s the thing, figure it out,” Hamm said. But, on Bearaby’s website, the company is able to properly explain what a weighted blanket is, what the benefits are, and how to use it.Retail, in this regard, also boosts online sales. In new geographies where Bearaby doesn’t see many online sales, being featured in a store can help teach people about the product. “In most cases, they didn’t know about weighted blankets,” Hamm said.She pointed to the recent Nordstrom partnership, where Bearaby’s products were placed in markets the company has traditionally not targeted. “We’re, for the first time, in markets where we as a brand don’t have a strong presence,” Hamm said. “And already, in the early weeks, we see a lift on our DTC side.”For now, Hamm’s primary focus is to get more people to know about both weighted blankets and Bearaby.