The Modern Retail Podcast

Digiday
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Jun 23, 2022 • 39min

'People want to talk about sex': Maude founder Éva Goicochea on growing a modern sexual wellness brand

Maude is trying to redefine the sexual wellness space.The brand -- which sells condoms, lubricants and vibrators, in addition to other products -- has been growing its presence and business over the years. It first began as a direct-to-consumer brand, but is now sold in stores like Sephora. According to founder and CEO Éva Goicochea, the company is only getting started.Maude began as a predominately DTC business in 2018. But Goicochea said she focused early on getting the word out -- and making sure people understood the brand properly. This included getting press pieces out before launch, as well as reaching out to hotels to carry the products. "We found like-minded partners when it comes to hotels and made a giant list on Airtable and started reaching out to them," Goicochea said.What does like-minded mean? "We partnered with hotels that had that design-bent," she said. For those hotels, they likely already had say, condoms, but they hadn't yet found companies that branded sexual wellness products like Maude. For those hotels, said Goicochea, "[the products] needs to be high quality because there's this trust barrier."With this strategy, Maude has continued to grow. The brand is now available in 33 countries and is continuing to grow its product line. Much of its success, said Goicochea, is based in brand identity. "We had this thesis," she said, "that [intimacy products] should be approached in this really unified de-stigmatized way."This, said Goicochea, is resonating with customers. And now the focus is on growth -- albeit, profitable growth. With that, Maude is looking to expand its domain.The focus this year, she said, is on product launches and expanding into new markets. She added, "it's retail next year."
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Jun 16, 2022 • 37min

'To traditionalists, we are inauthentic': Inkbox CEO Tyler Handley on changing the perception of temporary tattoos

Temporary tattoos are no longer relegated to children's birthday parties -- they're becoming a bigger and more widely accepted part of the body part industry.Much of that is thanks to Inkbox, a Canada-based company that was acquired by Bic last January for $65 million. Inkbox's co-founder and CEO Tyler Handley joined the Modern Retail Podcast this week and spoke about the brand's growth and sales -- as well as the overall temporary tattoo industry.Inbox uses an active ingredient its founders discovered in a fruit in Panama that leaves what looks like a tattoo mark on users' skin for one to two weeks. But the company's products don't work like traditional temporary tattoo offerings that put simple designs on pieces of paper. Instead, Inkbox partners with both celebrities like BTS and famous tattoo artists to sell customers' designs -- as well as grow out its own marketplace of designs where the creators can take a cut of the sales.According to Handley, the majority of Inkbox sales come from its artist marketplace. "We have this artist marketplace with over 10,000 designs from over 700 artists from around the world who make collectively several million dollars a year selling tattoos on our platform, which we're always really proud to say," Handley said.It took some time to get to this point -- the company is now seven years old -- and much of Inkbox's success was thanks to inroads it has made with the tattoo community. For example, early on the company opened its own permanent tattoo shop as a way to get to know more artists in the industry."We wanted to at least immerse ourselves in the authentic world of permanent tattoos -- to build more genuine connections with artists," Handley said.It seems the strategy worked out given the growing marketplace and the Bic acquisition. And now that Inkbox is part of a much bigger company, Handley has big plans for expansion. This includes retail partnerships and more deals with bigger celebrities. "We're at a stage now where we can't just be direct-to-consumer," he said. Currently, Inkbox is sold in stores like Urban Outfitters, but Handley has plans to expand further.But even with this growth has come some hurdles. For example, Instagram used to be Inkbox's primary acquisition channel. But recent privacy and algorithmic changes have made it much more expensive and less effective."It was really disheartening to see the greed of Meta affect our ability to get our content in front of consumers," said Handley. "Essentially you have to pay to get in front of anyone there now."With that, now Inkbox is focused more squarely on channels like TikTok. "It's really authentic in terms of its entertainment and engagement. And it's a totally different way you have to approach it," he said.With all of this, even more expansion is on the horizon. "[We're focused on] getting our lifetime value and basket size up by releasing new products -- we launched subscriptions three weeks ago," said Handley. "And soon we're launching some other products that adorn other areas of your body -- let's put it that way."
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Jun 9, 2022 • 35min

'For all intents and purposes we are a brand': Italic founder Jeremy Cai on the company's new path forward

Italic is trying to become a luxury brand in its own right.The company has been around since 2018 and has gone through many iterations. At the same time, the underlying model has remained consistent: Italic forges partnerships with the manufacturers of well-known brands like Staub and Samsonite and sells unbranded products directly from the facilities at a fraction of the price. While the company has seen growth over the last few years, it's changed some of its business mechanics. Most recently, for example, it decided to halt its membership-only model.This change, said founder and CEO Jeremy Cai, has positioned Italic for more success. Cai joined the Modern Retail Podcast this week and spoke about the company's latest approach."Our strength really is in the business side," Cai said. "We've built a pretty strong supply chain orchestration platform... We basically had to build our own version of Shopify, our own version of a returns platform, our own fulfillment network and so on and so forth."But by building such a strong back-end comes the problem of how to define a company like Italic. In some ways, it's a marketplace that directly matches manufacturers with customers. That's, in fact, how Italic first marketed itself. Now, Cai has realized that customers simply don't see it this way. "For all intents and purposes, we are a brand," he said. "Because they don't really see or need to see what goes on underneath the hood."Going away from its membership-only model isn't the only big change Italic has made of late. A few years ago, Cai had big plans to expand to multiple categories -- he saw Italic as partnering with numerous manufacturers that manufactured many diverse products. Now, he's realized that curation is more important."We can't simply expand rapidly for the sake of expanding supply," Cai said. If the products don't sell through, that leaves the manufacturers Italic is working with in a lurch. "We do have a tremendous amount of responsibility in terms of our agreements with our manufacturing partners," he said.That has made Italic think smaller and with a more curation-focused lens. "We started the year thinking we were going to launch 1,000 products," said Cai. "We'll probably launch 100."Another big change for Italic is its focus on organic growth and less reliance on digital platforms like Facebook. So far, things seem to be working. "We cut our growth spend by 5x from March to April this year, and our revenue grew -- and it's continuing," Cai said. "So it's kind of like, what were we spending money on in the first place?"With that is the larger goal of making Italic a prestige brand that isn't wholly reliant on one-off customer acquisition techniques. It's a focus that nearly every DTC brand faces right now.Over the next year, Cai said, he's dead set on "figuring out a path of growth into the future where we can continue to sizably grow the business without needing to solely rely on paid [advertising]."
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Jun 2, 2022 • 35min

'It is a very unique market': July co-founder Athan Didaskalou on expanding an Australian luggage brand to the U.S.

The last few years have been a rollercoaster for travel companies. But Australian luggage brand July says business is now beginning to boom."Things have changed, lockdowns have come to an end now -- 2021 was a progressive lift on that. And this year, in 2022, things are flying again," said co-founder and chief strategy officer Athan Didaskalou.Didaskalou joined this week's Modern Retail Podcast and talked about the brand's growth and expansion plans.July was first devised in 2018 with the intention of being a luxury luggage company that could take on both Samsonite and Rimowa. "[Rimowa's] acquisition from LVMH reinvigorated design and travel," Didaskalou said. "I'd be lying to say I wasn't a fan."Still, he believed that his company could take on the bigger name players in the industry. "We thought we could do it better," Didaskalou said, by making lighter bags with unique design features like curvier edges and personalized monograms.The first year of business, things went well. But then every luggage brand's worst fear materialized: the world shut down. "2019 was the official retail launch, and 2020 we were almost shutting the business down. It was really that drastic because we didn't have the runway of a few years under the belt in order to be able to survive a zero revenue year."One of the ways July survived the pandemic was by launching new non-travel products like drink bottles and backpacks. The other part was by going into new territories that eased travel restrictions earlier than Australia -- namely, the U.S. For Didaskalou, launching in stateside was an entrepreneurial dream. "I don't think there's any Australian business that doesn't fantasize from day one about launching in the U.S.," he said. "The people are there, the scale is there, the appetite is there for newness."Now, according to Didaskalou, business is humming and more products and markets are in the pipeline. But even though the company has its Australian roots, the United States remains the primary focus."It's all about the U.S.," Didaskalou said. "We see the demand, we have made an impact. And we can't wait to just start making and delivering more products that get people excited."
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May 26, 2022 • 34min

'We're getting an absurd amount of people': Neighborhood Goods CEO Matt Alexander on the return of physical retail

Things got scary for Neighborhood Goods in 2020."We went through layoffs and furloughs -- all sorts of challenging things," said co-founder and CEO Matt Alexander. "And we had just come into the year on a real tear, and it was just really gut-wrenching to suddenly be in that moment."But business has returned, and his updated department store model -- which has retail space in city centers like Manhattan, Austin and Plano and hosts a variety of brands in exchange for a revenue share -- is doing numbers once again. "Sales continue to grow and we continue to add more brands," Alexander said on the Modern Retail Podcast.Alexander joined Modern Retail for a live podcast recording at his New York City store in Chelsea Market during Digiday Media's Commerce Week. There, he spoke about changes to the business and how he's preparing for the future.While sales obviously dropped during the pandemic -- and the company had to close all of its stores for an extended period of time -- Neighborhood Goods was able to see some glimmers of light via its digital services. "Our stores are ostensibly their own warehouses. Local delivery, same-day deliveries, in-store pickup, things of that nature, we were able to offer that for products that were otherwise going to take weeks -- if not months -- to arrive with customers," he said. "And so that actually became a real driver for us."But now, digital is no longer the focus -- it's all about the store. Traffic, Alexander said, has picked back up to pre-pandemic levels and stores are more productive than ever before. In fact, he said the real issue he faces is too much traffic. "We're just getting an absurd amount of people to the point that it creates like a lot of challenges as to how you operate with it," Alexander said.Still, it's a good problem to have. Now, the focus is on growth. That could mean more stores, though Alexander he's still trying to figure out where that may be. It could be California, Atlanta, Nashville or even a smaller suburb, he said.But he's optimistic about the future of his business -- as well as the state of physical retail itself. "At the end of the day, the fundamental picture continues to improve," he said.
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May 19, 2022 • 28min

‘They're ready for liquidity’: OpenStore’s Michael Rubenstein on building a platform to give Shopify founders an exit

The e-commerce portfolio model has been getting a lot of press of late. And OpenStore thinks it may have cracked the code for finding and acquiring DTC brands.OpenStore launched in 2021, and the idea was the use proprietary technology to suss out which online brands have the most upside. It's raised over $130 million both in venture capital and debt. E-commerce brands can go to OpenStore's website and share their Shopify sales data with the portfolio company."We've built an engine, powered by data science, that is essentially looking at the historical financials and the order history of the business, and allowing us to come up in relatively real-time with a price for the business, which we then present to the founder," said co-founder Michael Rubenstein. He joined the Modern Retail Podcast this week and spoke about the current state of e-commerce portfolio companies and why he thinks OpenStore is poised for success.According to Rubenstein, OpenStore is focused on aggressively growing its portfolio. Last year, the company said it had ambitions to make an acquisition a day. Rubenstein wouldn't confirm exactly how many purchases this company has made, but said "we have done dozens of acquisitions... We're buying companies very regularly at this point."So what is an ideal candidate for an OpenStore scoop up? According to Rubenstein, it's usually brands whose GMV is between $500,000 and $10 million. He sees OpenStore as a way for serial entrepreneurs who are tired of the current business to make a profitable exit. "They're ready for liquidity -- there's whatever it is that they want to go do next," said Rubenstein.It is, admittedly, a more difficult time for e-commerce businesses than it was a year ago. E-commerce growth is stagnating and inflation is making sales growth difficult for many brands. Still, Rubenstein thinks OpenStore is more than just a business glomming onto a recent bubble. Our plan is to own these businesses, grow these businesses, develop them and help them to realize their full potential," he said.
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May 12, 2022 • 35min

An awesome product is table stakes': Weezie co-founder Lindsey Johnson on building a luxury bath brand

The key to DTC towel brand Weezie's success is staying in its lane -- or, bathroom.That's according to co-founder Lindsey Johnson who joined this week's Modern Retail Podcast. The company, which makes luxury bath towels along with other bathroom-related products like bathrobes and bathmats, has seen year-over-year growth and said late last year that it was on track to hit eight figures in revenue in 2021."The bath towel is the hero product of Weezie, and we are going to stay in that world," Johnson said.According to Johnson, what has helped Weezie grow is the company's relatively conservative approach to growth. Other than a seed round, Weezie has remained bootstrapped -- and it's been very intentional about every expansion or new sales channel into which it's dived.Some of that is because of the very nature of the business. Weezie offers custom embroidered towels -- all of which are made and fulfilled in its own U.S.-based facility. Scaling such an operation is difficult, to say the least. "[Wholesale] is something we've always struggled with... because customization is such a big part of the business," she said. "While, of course, our products are wonderful on their own, it doesn't tell the whole story."Now, thanks to growth from the last few years, Johnsons is trying to figure out how to grow these channels while remaining true to Weezie's roots. Meanwhile, she's also trying to figure out where to expand to next geographically.Weezie currently has one store in Atlanta, which she says has been a successful sales driver and brand booster. With that, Johnson is also thinking about opening more stores, but added "it's not in the near-term roadmap."Put together, Johnson has big plans for the next few months -- but is also trying to make sure Weezie stays by its North Star. "I think it's a big year of just investing in the future," she said.
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May 5, 2022 • 27min

'We're the coach versus the quarterback': General Mills' DTC lead Carter Jensen on how the CPG giant goes about e-commerce

General Mills is known for being the company behind household name brands Wheaties -- but it's also trying to build out a robust DTC strategy.At the Modern Retail DTC Summit, held last week in New Orleans, General Mills' global e-commerce lead of DTC Carter Jensen took to the stage to talk about how he approaches his role. That conversation was recorded for this week's Modern Retail Podcast.Jensen isn't the usual CPG conglomerate leader -- he only joined the company about two years ago. "I come from a weird hodgepodge of startups and consulting and agency land for the last 10-plus years," he said. But this variety of hats worn has helped Jensen better conceptualize how such a big company can go about direct-to-consumer strategies.General Mills brought in about $4.5 billion last quarter -- and direct e-commerce represents likely a tiny fraction of that. This year, General Mills is on track to launch DTC campaigns with about 30 brands -- which he described as "exponentially" more than the launches from the previous two years. Still, Jensen said that DTC is an increasingly important part of the overall program at the company."The vision of DTC from the top has shifted and changed," said Jensen. And a lot of that was thanks to the pandemic-led e-commerce boom. "We look at DTC now as not necessarily the end all be all, but a really important part of what we call the connected commerce journey."Different brands have different needs. For example, General Mills has upstarts from its incubator program -- and the company uses DTC tactics to gain helpful consumer fit data. The conglomerate also launches standalone websites for product drops, like it has for limited-edition Wheaties boxes. While General Mills does use e-commerce as a revenue driver for some brands, it is still very small compared to the company's vast distribution channels.And, at the end of the day, the company's playbook depends on each brand. "We lean on our brand teams, they are the brand experts. They're the ones who know their products, their partnerships, their consumers the best," said Jensen. "We come in with the DTC capability of knowing the tech stack, knowing what works, knowing how to ship products... we're the coach versus the quarterback, and we let them take control."
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Apr 28, 2022 • 33min

'I was laughed out of the room': How Bokksu founder Danny Taing bootstrapped his business to a $100M valuation

Bokksu, which connects U.S. customers with Japanese snacks, is still bullish on subscription boxes, according to its founder and CEO Danny Taing.The company, which first launched in 2016, began by offering a subscription box that featured Japanese snacks that were never before available in the U.S. Growth for the first few years was on the slower side, as the company remained mostly bootstrapped. Two years after launching, the company really started to hit its stride. And is now expanding beyond subscription boxes and launching its own marketplace."In early 2018, we had about 1,000 subscribers, and in just one month, we grew that to over 3,000," Taing said on the Modern Retail Podcast. "It was because of this viral Facebook kind of campaign."With that growth, however, came some struggles. "The warehouse in Japan was not equipped to deal with triple the amount of orders," Taing said. "And that was way before I had a logistics team or director."But Bokksu was able to roll with the punches and still grow. The company has doubled its revenue and customer base every year since 2018. This came as other subscription box brands like Birchbox faced major headwinds. But, according to Taing, Bokksu never experienced subscription fatigue. "I think what helped was that we have a very strong underlying product that changes every month that a lot of people get a lot of value from," said Taing. "It's not faddy."Earlier this year, Bokksu closed a $22 million Series A round of funding, giving it a $100 million valuation. That happened after years of receiving nos from VCs. For Taing, it was validation that his company had staying power. With this cash infusion, Bokksu is focusing on its marketplace expansion.Still, Bokksu remains focused on its hero product. "Subscriptions are still the majority," said Taing. "That's our core thing."
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Apr 21, 2022 • 38min

'We don't want to be everything to everyone': W&P president Kate Lubenesky on evolving a modern kitchen brand

For the kitchen brand W&P, it's been a good time for the home products space.This week on the Modern Retail Podcast, W&P president Kate Lubenesky spoke about how the company has evolved and grown. "We had great growth in 2020 and 2021," she said.W&P first launched 10 years ago with its first product: a mason jar-inspired cocktail shaker. Now, the company has expanded a great deal, with hundreds of different products including cups, cutting boards, cocktail kits and ziplock bag alternatives. "We've really refined our point-of-view to be equal parts function and design," said Lubenesky. With that, W&P has figured out exactly what its brand voice is; "We don't want to be everything to everyone... we're really singularly focused on kitchen products."Lubenesky joined the company in early 2020, right before the pandemic began. She hailed from kitchen product stalwarts like Oxo. "When I walked into the door, we were really at this fantastic inflection point as a business where we had this great portfolio of products that was really starting to click and hum in the marketplaces and with our retailers, like Crate and Barrel, Sur La Table, William Sonoma and just all these wonderful culinary retailers," she said. But then, of course, the coronavirus spread around the world and changed everyone's plans.Even so, W&P was able to switch revenue gears and continue growing. Many wholesale accounts -- including independent gift shops and department stores like Nordstrom -- had to pull back on their partnership with W&P in early 2020. But other sales channels began to grow. The brand's Amazon sales, for example, went through the roof. Additionally, W&P's corporate gifting revenue skyrocketed."Having that really healthy platform -- and a balance -- allowed us to thrive in 2020," said Lubenesky.Now, the company is focused on growing even more. That includes inking more wholesale partnerships -- if, of course, the retailers are a good fit. And there's also always product expansion."We're really focused on product development and innovating and inventing new categories that consumers aren't even aware of that they need," Lubenesky said.

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