The Materialist : A Podcast from At Present

Marc Bridge with Fern Mallis, The Hotel Chelsea, February 10, 2025In this special New York Fashion Week episode of The Materialist, Marc sits down with the legendary Fern Mallis, the architect of New York Fashion Week and a lifelong champion of independent designers. We discuss the origins of Fashion Week, the evolving landscape of American fashion, and the challenges facing young designers today. Fern also shares her passion for jewelry—how it tells a story, carries emotional weight, and serves as both personal expression and historical artifact. She highlights the work of designers past and present, from icons like Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and Tommy Hilfiger to rising talents like Tanner Fletcher, Collina Strada, and Anna Pierce. She also praises Alexis Bittar’s bold jewelry vision and reflects on her deep connection to Solange Azagury-Partridge’s designs, as well as the breathtaking craftsmanship of Indian jeweler Sabyasachi. With her signature wit and wisdom, Fern offers a masterclass in style, business, and the art of collecting. Whether you’re a fashion devotee, a jewelry lover, or just curious about the mechanics of cultural influence, this conversation is a must-listen. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

Marc Bridge and Christina Caruso, The Carlyle Hotel, January 16, 2025What does it take to make a career in jewelry—one that spans Sex and the City, Banana Republic, QVC, and a successful independent brand? Designer Christina Caruso joins The Materialist to share her fascinating journey from Parsons to corporate fashion and back to forging her own path.We talk about:✨ A chance encounter with Patricia Field that landed her designs on Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City✨ The highs and lows of the corporate fashion machine—and what it taught her about scaling a business✨ Getting knocked off by Zara (and learning to take it as a compliment)✨ The power of bold jewelry—why statement pieces matter and how they become heirlooms✨ Rebuilding a brand during COVID, with a focus on craftsmanship, sustainability, and New York City productionChristina’s energy is infectious, her storytelling is vivid, and her pieces are designed to make an impact. Plus, we talk about men in jewelry, vintage inspiration, and why sometimes the best ideas come from a lampshade at The Carlyle.💎 Shop Christina Caruso This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In this chat, Heather Hurst, a stylist, writer, and content creator known for her eye for vintage style, reflects on her unique path from public health to collecting. She shares her fascination with objects and materialism, highlighting emotional connections to a lost turquoise ring and her charm collection as talismans. Heather discusses the evolving nature of her personal style and how modern platforms shape career opportunities. She also imagines a museum showcasing the emotions behind her cherished objects, blending sentiment with creativity.

This week on The Materialist, Superstar publicist and New York IT Girl Gabrielle Katz takes center stage in a lively discussion with At Present Founder Marc Bridge about her journey in fashion PR, the evolving industry, and the joy of being a thoughtful materialist. As the founder of Accent Projects, Gabrielle has collaborated with some of fashion’s most iconic brands, including Oscar de la Renta, St. John, and Edie Parker.Gabby rocking the At Present : Jalil Johnson BOLD BraceletIn this episode, Gabrielle reflects on her early love of fashion, inspired by family legacies and her obsession with red sparkly shoes as a child. She shares her thoughts on the thrill of research-driven shopping and the meaning behind brands like Totême, Celine, and The Row.Highlights from the conversation include:* The Row and Totême: Why thoughtful shopping—filled with research and patience—is more rewarding than fast fashion trends.* Behind-the-scenes moments at Oscar de la Renta: From early mornings in the office to understanding house codes, Gabrielle details the lessons that shaped her career.* A bold collaboration: How St. John and Edie Parker created a tweed cannabis clutch that merged classic luxury with modern fun.* Emerging brands to watch: Gabrielle’s picks include London jewelry designer Lucy Delius, Milanese staple Slowear, and DTC favorite Aligne.The conversation also dives into the challenges and opportunities of modern PR, the rise of influencer culture, and why thoughtful materialism is about appreciating the meaning behind what we wear and share.This episode is a must-listen for fashion enthusiasts, brand-builders, and anyone curious about how legacy brands adapt to modern trends. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In this episode of The Materialist, host Marc Bridge, founder and CEO of At Present, interviews Alexandra Mack, the visionary founder of Holiday on Madison. Alexandra shares her journey from co-founding the jewelry brand Rebecca de Ravenel to creating a unique holiday retail experience that emphasizes discovery and curation of rare, artisan-crafted pieces. They discuss the challenges and joys of finding and spotlighting unique items, the dynamics of their respective brands, and the importance of intentional shopping. Alexandra provides insights into her curatorial process, her inspirations, and the special allure of Holiday on Madison. The conversation also explores the consumer behavior in high-end retail environments and the significance of storytelling in elevating the shopping experience.Brands Highlighted by Alexandra Mack:* Emanuele PantanellaA third-generation woodworking family from Rome, Emanuele Pantanella specializes in creating thoughtful, small-scale collections of handcrafted wooden objects. Alexandra highlights their unique wooden eggs, each symbolizing the beginning of life, as standout pieces in Holiday on Madison. These beautifully crafted items are designed for display on mantels or tables, blending artistry with storytelling.* Marfala (Maria and Rafa Echeverri)This creative duo operates a branding and design agency that has earned a reputation for creating immersive, multisensory experiences. From event activations to wedding design, their work incorporates elements like scent, texture, and atmosphere to bring concepts to life. Marfala handled the branding for Holiday on Madison (and Alexandra’s wedding!), blending thoughtful storytelling with elegant visuals.* Esencial HogarOriginally focused on textiles, Esencial Hogar has expanded into exquisite tabletop collections. Alexandra notes their standout silver-plated items, including tumblers, ice buckets, and carafes. These luxurious yet functional pieces make for ideal holiday gifts and exemplify the intersection of form and function in sophisticated design.00:00 Introduction to The Materialist Podcast00:33 Meet Alexandra Mack: Entrepreneurial Journey03:18 The Birth of Holiday on Madison04:35 Curating Unique Artisanal Pieces05:34 The Jewelry Brand: Rebecca DiRavenel07:43 Challenges and Successes in Jewelry Business14:36 The Inspiration Behind Holiday on Madison16:43 The Vision and Future of Holiday on Madison29:26 Shopping Trends and Holiday Sales31:23 The Concept of Seasonal Stores33:06 The Importance of Unique Items33:49 Customer Experience and Storytelling35:39 The Upper East Side Shopping Scene37:39 Personal Style and Inspirations40:27 Featured Designers and Artisans44:59 The Future of Retail and Designer Brands50:07 Final Thoughts and Recommendations This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In this special live-recorded episode of The Materialist, Marc Bridge sits down with three extraordinary guests at Parcelle in NYC to delve into the artistry and meaning behind jewelry. Adam Shulman and Heidi Nahser Fink, the creative minds behind James Banks Design, share their journey of crafting pieces that tell deeply personal stories and "sing" when they’re ready to connect with the world. Editor and curator Will Kahn (@willsnotebook) offers his insights into the evolving world of independent jewelry and the enduring allure of pieces that transcend trends.Together, the group explores why jewelry matters, how it connects generations, and the balance between timeless craftsmanship and modern innovation. The conversation is peppered with personal anecdotes, including Adam's family-inspired storytelling, Heidi's dedication to perfecting each piece by hand, and Will’s curatorial eye for what’s fresh and meaningful. They also highlight three names to watch: Bernard James, whose modern yet personal designs bring diamonds to life; Loren Nicole, an artisan creating archeological-inspired 22-karat treasures; and Judy Geib, whose inventive, bench-crafted pieces embody true artistry.Don’t miss this inspiring episode, which also celebrates the debut of the Vault Collection from James Banks Design—a stunning evolution of their signature work. Whether you’re a jewelry lover, a design enthusiast, or simply curious about the stories behind the things we cherish, this episode offers a rare glimpse into the heart of material culture. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In the latest episode of The Materialist, Marc Bridge sits down with Mirta de Gisbert, a jewelry consultant and gemologist whose life and work are deeply intertwined with the stories behind every piece she encounters.From her multicultural upbringing in Spain and South Africa to her deeply personal connection to family heirlooms, Mirta shares how jewelry transcends adornment to become a medium of memory, empowerment, and legacy.Highlights from the episode include:* The story behind Mirta’s most treasured piece—a Himba bracelet made of PVC. (Below in white)* How her father’s work as a metal trader sparked her lifelong fascination with gemstones and minerals. See the “rock collection” from her childhood below.* Why she designed the “Kupula” ring and what it means to wear her own creations.* Her philosophy on helping clients find jewelry that resonates deeply and personally.* The rising interest in vintage and antique jewelry among younger collectors.Whether you’re a jewelry enthusiast or simply curious about the stories that objects can tell, this episode offers a deeply human and inspiring perspective on the art of adornment.Mirta highlighted three very cool things more people should know about. They were:* Alessandro Florio* Who: Sicilian tattoo artist turned painter.* Why: His art features captivating colors and emotional depth that resonate deeply with Mirta.* What to Explore: His vibrant and evocative paintings.* Casa Chiqui* Who: A boutique in Cartagena, Colombia, showcasing treasures from around the globe.* Why: Mirta loves their curated collection of unique pieces, including her own pair of red pom earrings that she says make her feel instantly confident.* What to Explore: Their eclectic mix of jewelry, decor, and accessories.* The Nod* Who: An online magazine focused on contemporary stories through an Indian lens.* Why: Mirta admires their thoughtful storytelling and insights on culture, fashion, and design.* What to Explore: Their blend of modern narratives and cultural depth. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In this episode of The Materialist, Marc interviews Presley Oldham, a jewelry designer whose path to creating unique, handcrafted pieces was shaped by his creative upbringing and personal exploration.Presley shares his journey, starting with a childhood in an artistic family—his uncle a fashion designer, his father a metalsmith, and his grandmother a fine artist—and his early pursuits in performing arts. These experiences, along with the introspection brought on by the pandemic, led him to focus on jewelry, a tangible art form that resonates deeply with him.Presley discusses launching his jewelry business in 2020, emphasizing the importance of using upcycled and natural materials, particularly pearls, which he views as unique and elemental. His designs highlight individuality and imperfection, blending traditional techniques like wire wrapping with modern creativity. His pieces, which gained immediate traction, are intentionally genderless and aim to evoke emotion and connection in the wearer.Throughout the conversation, Presley reflects on the challenges of building a small, sustainable business while maintaining creative integrity. He describes his inspirations, from nature and vintage archives to classic films and the personal histories embedded in heirloom jewelry. He also shares the transformative experience of participating in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition, where he expanded his creative storytelling to include clothing and fashion shows.Marc and Presley explore themes of artistry, craftsmanship, and the evolving relationship between the maker, the object, and its wearer. Presley highlighted three designers he admires, each bringing something special to the world of jewelry:* Ted Muehling: Presley loves how Ted’s work is all about simplicity and understated beauty. There’s an elegance to his designs that Presley finds incredibly inspiring—it’s jewelry that doesn’t need to shout to make an impression.* David Rees and Ron Anderson of Ten Thousand Things: Presley couldn’t say enough good things about this duo. They hand-carve gemstones into stunning, thoughtful pieces, and their commitment to handmade craftsmanship is something Presley really connects with. He even mentioned they’ve become friends, and he thinks their work deserves way more attention—it’s truly exceptional.* Monica Castiglione: An Italian designer whose pieces Presley grew up seeing, thanks to his mom, who’s a big fan. He describes her work as natural and organic, the kind of jewelry that feels timeless—something you’d want to keep and pass down. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

In this episode of The Materialist, I sit down with the remarkable Annika Inez, a jewelry designer who blends Scandinavian minimalism with evocative, sculptural design. Anika takes us through her creative journey—from her early days in Sweden, surrounded by her entrepreneurial family, to her serendipitous start in a tiny Upper East Side storefront. Along the way, she shares her philosophy of letting materials "speak," her passion for creating timeless yet surprising pieces, and her love for hidden details that evoke emotion and delight.But this episode isn’t just about Annika—it’s also about the artists and inspirations that shape her creative world. She highlights:* Gret Palucca, the dancer and photographer whose revolutionary 1920s work captured movement like never before.* Sabina Sciubba of the Brazilian Girls, whose artistry and music Annika describes as nothing short of brilliant.* Gabriels, a California-based band with a sound so compelling that Annika believes they’re destined for greatness.* Fane, a Parisian brand redefining style with striking pieces that Annika deeply admires.Annika’s story is one of intentionality, whimsy, and a steadfast commitment to beauty. Whether you’re a jewelry lover, design enthusiast, or simply curious about the creative process, this episode offers a thoughtful exploration of how the objects we create and collect enrich our lives. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com

What happens when bold choices meet impeccable taste? In this episode of The Materialist, I chat with Jalil Johnson, At Present’s Stylist in Residence and a true style trailblazer. From the creation of our Bold Collection to his love for jewelry history and a little “bad taste,” Jalil shares his unique approach to self-expression and storytelling through design. Join us for a fun, inspiring conversation about fashion, risk-taking, and the joy of objects that matter.A few of Jalil’s Favorite Things:Jalil Johnson : At Present BOLD Ring (The Jalil-tastic gold one)EliorRenato Cipullo”Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and and the Styling of Black Disaporic Identity” by Monica L. MillerParis is BurningHanni RazorJalil’s Gift Guide, Part IBernard JamesNew York Public Library This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit atpresent.substack.com