Join Us in France Travel Podcast

Annie Sargent
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Aug 2, 2020 • 60min

Walking the French Chemin de Compostelle, Episode 296

On today's episode Annie Sargent and Lisa Wylie talk about walking the French Chemin de Compostelle. Lisa started her walk late April, which is the beginning of the hiking season in France. The end of the hiking season is October. On average there are about 100 people walking the French Chemin de Compostelle per day. But as we'll see in the episode, the Spanish part of the Camino is a lot busier with around 1000 walkers per day. It's still perfectly safe, even for a solo woman traveler. There are many ways to get to Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle or Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Lisa took the Puy route or via Podiensis, which is the most popular route in France. But she could have taken the route that starts in Paris, or the one that starts in Vézelay or Arles. You'll get to use your French on the Chemin! Lisa had a wonderful time in part because her French is quite good and she can have entire conversations in French. Knowing French is not a must, but if you can speak French you'll have a better time. Won't English be enough? Not everywhere. Remember, you'll be in rural France where most people aren't comfortable speaking English. One instance where speaking French is particularly helpful is when reserving rooms for the next night. It's possible (and sometimes advisable) to plan it all out and make your reservations weeks in advance from home, but what do you do it there's a rain storm that delays you? How about a blister that forces you to slow down considerably or even stop for a day? If you're comfortable speaking French on the phone, all of these things will be a lot easier for you. And speaking of making reservations, find out when holidays and school vacations are because those nights will often be booked up in advance! Walking the Chemin in Sections On this particular trip in 2019 Lisa walked between Cahors and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. 4 years prior she had done the section between Le Puy and Cahors, so she just picked up where she left off. Walking in sections is the most popular way to walk the chemin because most people have to go back to work and can't do it all in one trip. Practical Considerations when Walking the Chemin It took Lisa 3 weeks to complete the section between Le-Puy-en-Velay and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. That was walking 12 to 14 miles per day every day (which is 16 to 20 km per day). It takes some training to do this comfortably even if you're used to walking an hour with your dog every day. But the chemin is not technically difficult, it's just about building stamina. Are you thinking about backpacking it? Lisa carried her backpack and did not use a service to move her belongings around. But, when walking the French chemin de Compostelle you can travel light. You don't need to take a tent or cooking implements, there will be grocery stores and restaurants many places along the way. You won't be  walking in the wilderness but rather in the French countryside. There will be  villages, cafés, shops, pharmacies, at least in the bigger villages. There are transport services that will shuttle your bag between stops. They can also drive a person to the next stop if a walker in your party needs a break from walking. You'll find business cards for transport services at all the gîtes, so this is not something you need to arrange in advance. This is nothing like walking the Appalachian trail where you might be in the wilderness for days. The availability of frequent places to stop also means that you could decide to walk just 10 kilometers per day if that's more comfortable for you. But be aware that not every village has places where you can buy food, always carry some with you just in case. Le "sac à viande" aka sleeping bag liner You do need a change of clothes, a jacket, toiletries, a towel, and a "sac à viande" or sleeping bag liner. You'll use it when staying places where they don't give you sheets. But if you're planning on staying at regular hotels rather than "gîtes"  (youth hostel-like guest houses), then you won't need one. There are many places along the way where regular hotels are not available, so you'll need to make-do with basic accommodations such as gîtes. On the French side even the cheapest accommodations provide blankets, and you can often rent sheets for a few euros. But do bring your own toiletries and a light-weight bath towel. Choosing the right backpack Walking with a backpack is more difficult, but if affords more flexibility in your schedule. A general rule of thumb is a pack that is no more than 38 liters. That's enough to hold a change of clothes and some flip-flops. You'll probably also carry some snacks and maybe a lunch to hold you over until the next stop, but that's never more than a few hours away. Walking sticks help Walking a long way every day can be hard on your knees. Walking with poles can help a lot, especially if you get poles that fit your needs well. Consider poles that you can take apart and put in your backpack. There are poles made for women that fit their hands better. Annie prefers aluminum poles because they don't tend to vibrate when hitting the ground. The Miam Miam Dodo book and app This book is the Bible of the Chemin in French, it lists all the places you can sleep and eat and it's a favorite of French walkers. The app will show you where you are on the map. You can download the map when you're on-line so it'll work even if you're in the middle of nowhere. The book and app will also tell you how far to the next place to fill up your water bottle. Unfortunately it is only available in French. What sort of shoes do you need? You probably don't want simple sneakers, but you don't need heavy hiking boots either. Light hiking shoes are good, something like Merrels. French people and their blisters French walkers are concerned with taking good care of their blisters (ampoule in French which also means lightbulb). To do so they run a thread through the skin and it acts like a wicker. If you don't have the thread the skin will heal itself and the blister will not empty for a long time. Alternatively any French family doctor can cut out the thick skin and it'll allow the blister to heal within a couple of days. Be really mindful of meal-times You'll be walking through rural France so you must pay attention to meal times. Restaurants stop accepting customers after 1:30 PM for the lunch service. Rural grocery stores may close for lunch, they may also be away on vacation. Again, it is wise to carry some food with you. Lisa's stops along the way 17 minutes into the episode Lisa starts explaining the path she walked and where she stayed. They are also listed in the Guest Notes (blue button below). The whole point of walking the French chemin de Compostelle is to walk. There are no particular attractions along the way, although you will run into some gorgeous churches and abbeys you'll want to visit. And there are, of course, beautiful rural vistas. Be aware that many of these really scenic villages are dead unless you happen to be there on a week-end or school vacation. These are also places where it might be hard to get a meal because there aren't grocery stores. Pack ear plugs because you will run into snorers and at a hostel you can't always get away from them! Walking the French Chemin de Compostelle as a solo female traveler Lisa has traveled around the world by herself sometimes as was the case for her 2019 trip to walk the Camino. She never felt unsafe while walking or at any of the stops. Everyone was considerate and friendly. You will probably keep running into the same people and will get to know them quite well so it won't feel lonely. Some parts of the Camino are really busy Whe you're walking the French Chemin de Compostelle you'll run into 90% French people. As soon as you get to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port you'll suddenly be surrounded by a lot more people from all over the world. There are 10 times more people hiking the Spanish side than the French side. What's the best part of walking the French Chemin de Compostelle? The best part of this walk is hanging out with other walkers at the gîte at night. French people love to socialize around a meal and most gîtes provide the evening meal. Most are great cooks, one wasn't (see guest notes). You'll meet a lot of like-minded people and chat about all sorts of things. Wine will be served with dinner, but you probably won't run into much wild partying. Restaurant Recommendation Le Fromage Rit in Moissac is a lovely restaurant where you can eat a good meal for under 20€ More episodes about active vacations in France Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price. Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Basque Country, Episode 60 Lise Wylie on the chemin de Compostelle Categories: Active Vacations in France, France How To
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Jul 26, 2020 • 58min

Summer Lunches in France, Episode 295

In this episode, Annie and Elyse chat about our favorite summer lunches in France. We talk about eating habits locals have in France during the warm months and the foods we all look forward to every summer in France. We also share a few recipes and cooking tips from our southern France kitchens! #joinusinfrance #frenchfood #frenchwine #summerfoods Support Elyse on Patreon Annie & Elyse's Favorite Summer Lunches in France In France we don't want to turn the oven on. Why? Because most French homes don't have air conditioning! Turning the oven on raises the temperature of an already hot house too much. That's also why many villas in France have a full kitchen outside. Some people just have a barbecue, but you'll also find outdoor kitchens with a "plancha" (large hot plate), a fridge and a sink. And air-fryers are also good for that. Do French People Have Food Traditions in the Summer? French people used to eat a lot more regional foods, but as food distribution has become more global, you can find similar summer foods all over France. Barbecues French people barbecue sausages a lot. There are electric barbecues you can even use on a balcony. Merguez from North Africa Chipolatas from the south of France Porc chops Duck heats Grilled Rocamadour cheese Summer Salads Watermelon salad with feta and mint Caprese salad with garden tomatoes, mozzarela and fresh basil Salade Niçoise (and maybe some Socca to go with it?) Salads with boiled eggs and fruit (fresh strawberries or canned peaches or melons) Melon Charantais with prosciuto ham or with port wine Summer Soups Gazpacho Cucumber soup Royco soup (instant) Zucchini soup with either curry or Boursin cheese Summer Sandwiches Pain Bagnat Sandwich aux mergez Sandwich à la saucisse de Toulouse Summer Pizzas Pissaladière Fig and feta pizza Summer Fruit Peaches Melons Charentais Flat peaches or nectarines Summer Dishes Ratatouille (which you can make in one pot and without much fuss as Annie explains 19 minutes into the episode) Tian de légumes Quiches with a lot of onion or zucchini or Swiss chard or leeks Tomates farçies Dishes with fresh peas Mussels and fries Terrines de poisson or terrines de légume Fresh sardines on the grill Taboulé Apéritif dinatoire is a big thing in France in the summer Summer Is Rosé Season For some reason most French people switch to drinking rosé during the summer, especially in the last 10 years. It's completely OK to drink it with ice, but if you don't use ice it must be served very cold. There are good rosés from Corsica, Provence and Pays de Loire. More episodes about French food and wine   Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price. Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): French Food, Episode 17 Dealing with food allergies in France, Episode 170 A Cornucopia of Bizarre French Foods, Episode 193 Food Prices at French Grocery Stores, Episode 197 Do's and Don'ts at Restaurants in France, Episode 209 Cafe Culture in France, Episode 228 Categories: French Culture, French Food & Wine
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Jul 19, 2020 • 42min

Favorite Shopping Spots in Paris, Episode 294

On today’s episode, a conversation where Annie asked listeners to share their favorite shopping spots in Paris. Listeners mentioned so many places they love to go back to over and over again! Several stand out for clothing, food, wine, accessories, cosmetics, hobbies, gifts, it’s all here! Favorite Shopping Spots in Paris It’s funny for me to talk about shopping because I’m not much of a shopper myself. I mean, if I need something, I’ll go get it. But I don’t go out just to look around, see what’s at the stores, keep up with the trends. Now when I go back to the US and I have more time on my hands, then I enjoy going to Costco, Malls, look around. I always buy a lot of things in the US. I think it’s because I don’t get to do that whenever I want so it’s a treat. It’s probably the same for you when you come to France. It’s a treat because it’s different to your daily life. So, I asked on the Join Us in France Closed Group on Facebook what your favorite stores are in France and I got a lot of answers. A lot of you have visited France more than once, some of you are repeat offenders indeed! It’s a fun list! Department Stores and Grocery Stores BVH BVH Marais of course, right by the Hôtel de Ville. I like to go there to look for scarves, but they have all sorts of things, including a big hardware store in the basement. Monoprix This is the one that got the most votes and it is much like the French Target! What can I tell you about Monoprix? It’s got a little bit of everything, it’s not super fancy, but they carry solid products at a good price. Galleries Lafayette Galleries Lafayette: In French department stores, don’t forget to go to the basement where all the food is! But on Boulevard Haussmann go to Lafayette Gourmet across the street. Printemps Annie loves the one on Boulevard Haussmann, but listeners also mentioned the one under the Louvre. The mall under the Louvre is really nice actually, last time I was there I walked out with new Bose headphones! Au Bon Marché This beautiful store is in St Germain, we talked about it in episode 287. Despite the name it’s not cheap. Not even a little bit cheap! I’ve never bought anything there, but it’s a beautiful store, worth a visit just for that. La Grande Epicerie I almost added that one to my Saint-Germain-des-Prés tour but it was going to make it too long, but it’s an interesting kitchen supply store not in Les Halles. It’s also a wonderful food store with lots of expensive items. Mariages Frère Expensive teas, they have several locations. I don’t think they serve tea in any of the stores which makes no sense to me. Maisson Plisson This store is at 93 Boulevard Beaumarchais a bit pricey, but excellent food. Wine Stores Surprisingly, listeners only listed Devinis. There are of course many specialty wine stores in Paris, including  Nicolas (a chain) and hundreds of independent wine stores. Bakeries Ladurée Not sure what to say about them because they are really famous and have stores all over the world. They are still a favorite for many people! Pierre Herme Macarons and beautiful pastries, several locations in Paris including one on rue Bonaparte, included in my Saint Germain tour Des gateaux et du pain Two stores, one rue du Bac, one in Montparnasse Cafés Angelina’s Who hasn't heard of Angelina's? Annie particularly loves their Mont Blanc, a pastry with chestnut paste. Cheese Stores It's hard to point to one wonderful cheese store in Paris because there are so many and they're all so nice! La Ferme Saint-Aubin This one is a favorite even though it's pretty small: 76 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île, 75004 Paris, France Perfume and Cosmetics Fragonard A chain that you'll find all over France CityPharma Rue du Four in Saint-Germain-des-Prés: skin care products and advice from the sales ladies. Caudalie All sorts of beauty products. The shop at the Carrousel du Louvre is nice. Officine Universelle Buly Historical beauty store in Saint Germain, I considered it for my Saint Germain tour also, but it would have made the tour too long. Very interesting place! Marius Fabre A listener said: I can’t live without the Orange-Cannelle soap, savon de Marseille, olive oil face and body cream Yves Rocher They have stores all over France and they are famous for giving out samples! Jewelry Stores Les Nereides Pretty and romantic costume jewelry Merci Store This store is in the Marais and is great for bracelets Fried Frères Jewelry, Beads, Buttons SEQUINS Paris since 1886 13 Rue du Caire, 75002 Lady Bird On rue des Abbesses. They sell quirky jewelry, hosiery, and other unique fashion accessories. Galerie Le Sud Paris You'll find it in the Marais They sell beautifully-made glass jewelry and art pieces. Clothing Stores, Fashion & Second Hand Stores IKKS There are several throughout Paris and France, they have stores for men, women, kids, etc. Reciproque Paris This is a large confinement store with sells fashions and decor items. 95 Rue de la Pompe, 75116 Paris. Soeur On 88 rue Bonaparte, you walk right in front of it on my Saint Germain tour but I didn’t point it out because I’m really interested in food and not clothes! Derhy Crimson Beautiful cashmere La Petite Maroquinerie A small neighborhood store in Montmartre selling recycled leather goods. Inès de la Fressange The store is on rue Grenelle 24 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris Longchamps Famous bags, of course! Heyraud Lovely shoes Louis Vuiton The original store is on Place Vandome, very posh! Art Supply Store & Hobbies Sennelier Picasso and Degas bought art supplies there. It’s a darling, crowded store with beautiful paint. La Bien Aimée Yarn store- amazing hand dyed yarn La Maison du Pastel Art supplies on 20 Rue Rambuteau, 75003 Paris La Droguerie Near Les Halles. Best wool and craft shop ever! Home Decor & Gifts Durance Amazing candles Pylones This is a chain that you'll find all over the world, but they have nice Paris-specific items. Astier de Villatte Ceramics, candles, fantasy items Deyrolle This one you cannot skip! Saint Germain des Prés, included in my tour, whimsy, nature, gifts for naturalists and gardeners, totally unique. Bazartherapy A little bit of everything for the home 15 Rue Beaurepaire, 75010 Paris Truffaut Nursery, home décor items, items for pets La Chaise Longue Home, accessories, decor. This is in the 16e. Ice Cream Shop Berthillon The original store is on the Ile Saint Louis More episodes about Paris Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price. Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Les Grands Magasins in Paris, Episode 287 Exploring the Béarn, Episode 281 Categories: First Time in Paris, France How To, Paris
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Jul 12, 2020 • 54min

Brothers Meet in Paris, Episode 293

What happens when brothers meet in Paris? Well, they have a great time, of course! Annie's guest on today's episode, Ernesto de Jesus, lives in California and his brother lives in the Philippines.  They decided to spend some time together in Paris. They took the Eurostar to get from London to Paris and that was uneventful. Booking the ticket on-line was easy, then they took a taxi between the train station and their hotel and that made it much easier. They got their first glimpse of the city from the taxi and that was a great experience. Ernesto's Hotel Recommendations They stayed at two different hotels because they wanted to experience both left bank and right bank. Their first hotel was in Saint Germain des Prés and their second was the Hoxton in the 2e arrondissement. The Hoxton is a gorgeous restored building, but the area is not as walkable as Saint Germain. Book Recommendation Ernesto used the Paris in Stride book to walk around the Palais Royal and Covered Passages areas. There is an abundance of Japanese restaurants in this part of Paris. Food Tour Experience Ernesto and his brother took a food tour by Paris by Mouth. The did a Taste of Saint Germain tour and got to try some great food! Baguette tradition are big in France and usually taste better than the normal baguette. After the tour they went to Beaupassage to look at the stores and have some lunch. There are several restaurants and some art installations in the area. They tried an award winning croissant at La Maison d'Isabelle in the Latin Quarter and a small restaurant called Le Timbre. That's a small restaurant near the Luxembourg Gardens run by a husband and wife team. French food at a good price and you can reserve on-line. Another place they tried is called Frenchie and it's really popular, they have a restaurant, a wine bar, a to-go place. It's more American food than anything. They also tried chocolates and fruit jellies at Jacques Genin as recommended by the food tour leader. They thought the best macarons they ever had were at Pierre Hermé. Day-Trip to Versailles They took at tour with Blue Fox. Met the guide at Gare Saint Lazare and rode all over the garden grounds. Ernesto feels like they didn't get to see mych of the inside of the palace because they got there too late and it was already dark in October. On the other hand, they had the Hall of Mirrors almost to themselves. For people who don't want to take the time to go all the way to Versailles, you'll see something similar by going to the Napoleon III apartments in the Louvre or the Opera Garnier. And the Luxembourg Gardens are a wonderful place to relax too! Hiring a Professional Photographer This was a really good experience because it's hard to get good photos while traveling. This particular photographer was really good and has a nice smile. Navigo Easy and Museum Pass The Navigo Easy is the new way to travel around Paris. You don't need a photo and you can recharge it when you run out or to take longer trips like to Versailles. You can take bus #69 that goes by a lot of monuments for the price of one ticket. The museum pass was well-worth it, but rules are going to be changing now due to the pandemic, so check their website for updates. Why Do So Many Paris Taxis Refuse Credit Cards? Paris taxis are supposed to all take credit cards. The reason why they tell visitors that they don't is because they don't want to declare all of their income to avoid taxes. If you don't have euros with you, ask before you board the taxi, but they are ALL supposed to take cards. Paris Is a Walk-Able City Some people say Paris is over-ratted and that it's a cliché destination. But it's really fun to be there and it's a very walk-able city which makes it really enjoyable. Traveling with a Brother Ernesto's brother is an architect and they both enjoy photography. They've traveled together before and knew what to expect. His brother also studied in Italy so he had been to Paris before. Article in the journal Nature I mentioned in my personal update. More episodes about your first time in Paris   Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price. Subscribe to the Podcast Apple Google Spotify RSS Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Explore the Covered Passages in Paris, Episode 29 Saint-Germain-des-Prés Neighborhood, Episode 196 How to eat like a local in France, Episode 286 Ernesto de Jesus Categories: Family Travel, First Time in Paris, Paris
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Jul 5, 2020 • 54min

Le Corbusier Sites in Paris, Episode 292

There are a lot of Le Corbusier sites in Paris. Would you like to know how you can organize your visit and optimize your time? My guest David Palachek talks about his plan to see as many Le Corbusier sites in Paris as he could in a short visit. David is a designer and as such has a keen interest in all things architectural.  He took a lot of wonderful photos of these sites. You can see them by following Annie and David on Instagram. We discuss how Le Corbusier was a man of startling beliefs, and not just about architecture. Many in France don't think he deserves the money that is spent on keeping his memory alive. Then we also veer off into discussing David's favorite neighborhood in Paris, favorite restaurants, driving in Paris, and Annie's VoiceMap tour of Saint Germain des Prés. Please note that these sites are only open on certain days, plan accordingly. Also, due to the pandemic, some of these times might have changed. Check the official website of each development. Discussed in this Episode Charlotte Perriand exhibit at the Louis Vuiton Museum in Paris [02:42] Visiting the Pompidou Center with a teenager [05:37] Le Corbusier sites in the 15th arrondissement [08:48] Le Corbusier as a controversial figure [13:42] What Le Corbusier and Haussmann have in common [15:57] L'Esprit Nouveau Magazine [16:22] Le Corbusier didn't train to be an architect! [18:26] Problems with Le Corbusier buildings [19:48] Immeuble Molitor in Boulogne-Billancourt his private residence [21:36] Maison Cook {22:46] Villa Savoye in Poissy [25:10] Take note if you're going to be driving in Paris! [25:43] Le Corbusier influenced thousands who came after him [32:30] In the 13th and 14th arrondissement [33:19] Not ideal for teenagers unless you use the Flash Invader App [34:43] Using the VoiceMap App [36:28] Not to miss inside of Saint Germain des Près Church [31:01] David likes Saint Germain better than the Marais now that's he's tried both [38:19] Go inside the stores that are recommended on the tour! [38:49] Speaking some French is a big plus even if it's not necessary [40:10] Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Le Corbusier Architecture, Episode 139 How the Marais Neighborhood Was Almost Razed, Episode 103 David Palachek Categories: Arts & Architecture, Paris
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Jun 28, 2020 • 52min

An Overview of Haute Couture in Paris, Episode 291

On today’s episode Annie and Elyse chat about the places you have to go if you’re a fan of high fashion or "haute couture" in Paris. Elyse gives us a brief overview of how haute couture got started in France and it turns out that it's fascinating! Support Elyse on Patreon If you're a fan of fashion you really need to go on a pilgrimage on a couple of streets in Paris (see below). These are high fashion boutiques where they sell high-end "prêt à porter". This means "ready-made". But a shirt might cost you 2,000€ so it's  not exactly affordable for everyone. Haute Couture as a Label Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) is akin to the AOC you've probably hear of for wines. These products have to meet requirements that we call "cahier des charges" in French. Designers who want to enjoy the "haute couture" label must have everything done by hand. You have to have two in-house "ateliers" (workshops) where workers craft beautiful pieces. Everything has to be custom-made and custom-fitted. They must also participate in two shows a years. What the French call a "défilé de mode". You can see the official calendar of défilés in Paris here. Haute Couture Started with Louis XIV and Versailles Haute couture is not new in France. As a matter of fact it started with Louis XIV and his lavish palace in Versailles. And it continued after that with Madame de la Pompadour and Madame du Barry and continued with Marie-Antoinette. Back then they wore elaborate wigs called a "poule" (a chicken!). Women always wore jewelry and heavy makeup. Their dresses were 5 feet wide. It was all extravagant. Nobility All Came to Paris to Buy their Clothes Everybody who was anybody came to Paris to buy their clothes. This included the royal families or Germany, England, Russia, Spanish, Italy, etc. Yes, even the Italians who developed their fashion later. When members of various royal families came to Paris with their entourage, they usually stayed for a while. Local luxury hotels appeared as a result. Women at the time couldn't do much outside of the domestic realm, so they loved to get away and visit Paris to buy clothes. Marie Antoinette's Fashion Minister Rose Bertin was the first woman stylist to be introduced at the court and serve Marie Antoinette. Rose Bertin became very successful and she was called "fashion minister" by Marie Antoinette. In a truly rebellious act, she didn't marry because she didn't want to be under the control of a man. She managed to escape to London before the Revolution could get her and came back to France once it was safe for her to do so much later. More Recent Developments in Haute Couture Louis Hippolite Leroy was the stylist for Napoleon and Joséphine and he also created a business empire based on high fashion. He made the gowns for Napoleon's coronation. He is the one who coined the term "haute couture". Charles Frederick Worth succeeded Mr. Leroy and opened a shop on Place Vendôme. This is under Napoleon III and he's the one who invented the défilé with live people. He also "created" the profession of fashion model that was more respectable than being a dancer or actress. Copyright Protection for Haute Couture The official union of French haute couture came to life in 1911. The idea there was to stop people from copying and stealing styles. Members of this group were Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Courrèges. More recently Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gauthier, etc. We don't mention all of them, of course! Every fashion house now makes their own perfume. This is probably because anyone can wear perfume whereas most people can't get away with wearing those extravagant gowns. French expression of the week: Si le riducule tuait, on serait tous mort! Places You Should Check Out to See Haute Couture in Paris Boulevard Saint Honoré around number 380. Chanel is around there (on rue Cambon), Gucci, Louis Vuiton, Burbury, Loboutin. It's fun to go in and look around. Rue Montaigne (start around number 48). Place Vendôme More episodes to help you prepare your first trip to Paris Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price. Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise
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Jun 21, 2020 • 54min

Best Parks In and Around Paris, Episode 290

Laura Knott, my guest on today's episode,  has a passion for parks. She's a landscape architect, and went looking for the best parks in and around Paris. Laura made two trips to Paris, the first in Aug 2018 and the second in September 2019. The main goal for both of her trips was to explore parks and gardens in and around Paris. She had learned about those parks in graduate school, so seeing them in person was a treat! Laura travels solo and felt safe everywhere she went in Paris. One thing to keep in mind: when visiting parks you have to remain flexible. Parks can be closed due to a weather event, private parties, or other unpredictable issues. Movie Recommended in this Episode: A Little Chaos Discussed in this Episode [04:29] Parc Monceau Les Buttes-Chaumont [15:35] Parc de Bercy [22:26] Bois de Boulogne and Jardin d'acclimatation [31:33] Parc de Bagatelle [31:29] Bois de Vincennes [31:57] The Bosquets in Versailles [32:39] Parc André Citroën and the hot air balloon [34:19] Thank you Patrons and new video Patreon rewards [43:08] If you've appeared on the podcast and would like to join the secret group email Annie! [45:13] Elyse's new Patreon page [45:35] Annie's personal update [46:52] Update on doing a full immersion French course [47:26] Update on France re-opening to visitors [48:07] We're going to be over 300 episode soon after that you'll need to listen to earlier episodes on the website [50:14] Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Château de Vincennes Paris, Episode 203
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Jun 14, 2020 • 50min

Lagrasse and Villerouge-Termenès, Episode 289

Lagrasse and Villerouge-Termenès are in the Corbière area, to be precise in the Aude department and the Occitanie region. If you're ready for an off the beaten track vacation in the sunny south of France, listen to this episode and hop on a plane! Support Elyse on Patreon! What we love about Lagrasse Lagrasse has a lovely monastery that escaped destruction during the French Revolution, only to become a Gendarmerie later on! The monastery in Lagrasse is the only one in France to have both a medieval church and a classical cloister. A lot of English people have settled in Lagrasse and you it might surprise you to hear quit a lot of English spoken in the village, not by tourists, but by locals too! There is a book fair every year in Lagrasse, but you might also enjoy the marketplace from the 1500s, the famous bridge, the cloister, the remnants of ramparts, and the beautiful village. There is a new group of monks in the Abbey and the village has won a prize for the quality of its restoration. Lagrasse is only 42 km from Carcassonne and Narbonne and 140 km from Toulouse. It is a great place to visit from Carcassonne or Narbonne. From Toulouse it's a wonderful one-day excursion. Not to miss in Villerouge-Termenès This is a small village with a castle. It is gorgeous to see because a lot has been renovated. The audio guide is worth taking. It is called "Villerouge" because the stone is red there unlike in Lagrasse where it's white limestone. This is a place where the last of the Cathars were held and burned at the stake. This castle was the private property of the Bishop of Narbonne in the 1300s when this happened. As such, it was a stronghold of the proponents of the Catholic Church. Guilhem Bélibaste, one of the last Cathar preachers was burned at the stake there in 1321. There is a medieval rotisserie in Villerouge-Termenès where they serve chicken on a slab of bread without utensils and served with spiced wine. The restaurant is inside the castle and it's a fun thing to do when visiting the area! The Vineyards around Lagrasse and Villerouge-Termenès These are not the kinds of wineries that are showy. These wineries are often setup in serviceable agricultural buildings with a small show-room. There are signs inviting drivers to stop and sample the wine, but it's nothing fancy. You will find some of the loveliest Corbières wines in this area. Annie particularly likes to stop at a place called Camplong d'Aude where you can buy a wonderful red called C de Camplong. I said it was called O when we recorded the episode, but I wasn't remembering right, it's called the C de Camplong. This website lists 5 different "wine routes" you can take in the Aude department to get to know the Corbières wines. From there you can download a PDF in French. We think it is useful even if you don't speak French because it has  maps and photos. More episodes about Occitanie     Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price. Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): A visit to Limoux in Occitanie, Episode 277 The Medieval Walled City of Carcassonne, Episode 23 When in Lagrasse look up and you may find this wonderful lady and unicorn painted on a medieval beam. Categories: Day -Trips from Toulouse, Toulouse Area
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Jun 7, 2020 • 49min

French Immersion Programs, Episode 288

Are you looking for a French immersion program in France? This episode will help you think through some of the things you should consider before making your choice. I must point that this episode NOT sponsored by any language school, my guests are making recommendations based on their experience and preferences only. My guests Janice and Caroline recount their experiences and what they consider the positives and negatives of language programs. Janice Chung has been a teacher and school principal and is now retired. She has a lot of insightful experiences about what makes a good learning experience. That's why I thought she would be a great guest to talk about French immersion programs. Janice also has a blog where she shared more details about all her experiences with French language schools in France. My second guest on the podcast is Caroline Stanford who studied at two French immersion programs. One in Tours and on in Besançon, both medium-sized cities in France. Language Schools Discussed in this Episode Ecoles des 3 ponts near Lyon Janice started going there years ago and keeps returning. The experience is great because you're speaking French 24/7 and class size is small. There are 3 hour of classes in the morning, then either free time to do homework, or cooking classes, or visits. They center the experience around student's needs. If a student is having difficulties with a particular concept, they create lessons to address it. That's very different from schools where they follow the book and don't deviate. For this school you take a short test online to decide what's an appropriate level for you. But on the first day you also get evaluated and then they place you in a class. Accent Français in Montpellier Here you have a couple of hours of class every day. It's not as student-centered as the previous one, but there are games, activities, you pair-up with other students. There's a whole range of things you can do. Janice would be happy to go back. But because you don't stay in the same place as all the other students, you spend more time without anyone to converse with. Also, because there are students from all over the world and they each come with their unique accent and sometimes it's hard to understand their French for that reason. Generally speaking you want to be in an environment that encourages taking risks and using what you know. Alliance Française in Paris Janice had a difficult time at Alliance Français in Paris even though she had taken some of their classes in Toronto. She was placed in a class that was too difficult. There were 10-12 students but the teacher responded to only a few students and did a poor job at encouraging participation from some students. Alliance is a highly structured type of class. They follow a set curriculum that is very teacher-directed with too little interaction with the students. Janice never tried to do phone conversation in French, but she went to a few meetups in Toronto. This was not deep enough for her style of learning. Centre de Linguistique pour les Étrangers (CLE) in Tours Caroline loved this small intimate school where she studied for a whole month in the summer. She loved the fact that there were only between 4 and 10 people per group. Students attend from all over the world. This is in the center of Tours in an old house. The school connected them with a host family where they continued to speak French in the evening. Centre de Linguistique Appliqué in Besançon This is geared towards intermediate or advanced learner, a bigger school with class size between 10 and 20. They did grammar, literature, linguistics, European Union, film, history, lots of topics. For the European Union class students had to make oral presentations. At this school you could take the DELF exam. It is a test that puts you on a scale for French proficiency. It is required for foreign nationals to enroll in French universities. Staying with a host family is wonderful, it gives you a chance to get to know the culture. The university dorm experience is not plush. Most students go home on the week-ends because students don't go far away from home for college in France. General tips for people who want to learn French Put yourself in situations where you'll need to speak French: Visit small towns and villages where you won't be surrounded by people who use English every day. Instead of flying or taking the train within France, use a ride-sharing service like Blablacar where you're more likely to talk to locals. Stay in a Bed & Breakfast or Youth Hostel where you'll meet plenty of French people who have minimal English. Understand that in large touristy cities in France many people you will interact with would rather speak English with you. They want to make you comfortable and it might be faster than taking your order in hesitant French. It is very common for language learners to take classes for years and still be unable to speak. That's because learning grammar is one thing. Memorizing vocabulary is pretty easy. Using the language to converse is much more difficult. You should probably seek out French immersion programs where the emphasis is on conversation and on the student doing most of the talking. Take advantage of the ability to explore other parts of France if you can. You don't need to study all the time! Join Us in France in the news! Article about Join Us in France in the AARP Magazine. There was also an article in the France-Amérique Magazine. Book recommended in this episode: Waking Up White by Debbie Irving   Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price.   Discussed in this Episode Ecoles des 3 ponts near Lyon [05:53] Accent Français in Montpellier [10:00] Alliance Française in Paris [12:10] Centre de Linguistique pour les Étrangers (CLE) in Tours [20:28] The DELF certification [25:25] Staying at a University dorm in France [31:20] Thank you patrons and how you can support the show [34:03] Join Us in France reviews in two magazines [37:32] Annie's take on the current civil unrest in the US [39:12] Update on the Covid-19 situation in France [43:38] Reopening borders [45:24] Support the Show Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Survival French with Todd Newman, Episode 30 Categories: France How To, French Culture
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May 31, 2020 • 1h 2min

Les Grands Magasins in Paris, Episode 287

Department stores in Paris aka Grand Magasins are surprising in many ways. Of course you can shop your heart out and find some of the most wonderful items in Paris, but their history is amazing too! And, that was a surprise to both of us, it has a lot to do with the emancipation of women. In today's episode Elyse discusses the 4 that are left today and what not to miss when you visit them. Department Stores in Paris aka Les Grands Magasins The history of department stores in Paris has a lot to do with what activities were acceptable for women to do outside the home. But the buildings are also gorgeous and worth a visit all by themselves, even for people who aren't big spenders! Les grands magasins mark a revolution in how people shopped. Custom-made items became too expensive and ready-made goods were now a good alternative. Mass production of textiles became possible in the 1840s due to the industrial revolution. If you were a woman of the upper class in the 1800s there weren't a lot of activities that were acceptable for you. You could go to the theater, you could go shopping only accompanied by a man, you could visit parks accompanied by family. But you were not supposed to go wandering on your own. Le Bon Marché Started in 1852 as a Grand Magasin by the Boucicaut family near the métro Sèvres-Babylone. The name "bon marché" means two things in French: good items and inexpensive. Everything they sold was ready-made, prices were good because they sold enough volume, and they could deliver! Something completely new: you could return items you weren't happy with! Women could go shop there and it was acceptable, but the store keepers were mostly men. Eventually Bon Marché started hiring women as sales clerks which was another revolution in the business. Bon Marché advertised a lot and put out catalogs and it was a huge success! So much so that Bon Marché also built a hotel right across the road for all the patrons that came to Paris just to see this new department store. The Bon Marché is the only Grand Magasin on the Left Bank, the other two are near the Opéra Garnier in the Right Bank. Le Printemps Le Printemps grand magasin was inspired by Bon Marché and was started on the right bank in 1865 by two savvy businessmen. This is the biggest department store in Paris in terms of surface. This is the store where the concept of sales was invented. At the end of the year, after Christmas, they decided to make room for new items by discounting the previous year's inventory. Printemps has a gorgeous dome that you can see by going to the Brasserie du Printemps. Follow the signs or ask someone to direct you. There are other cafés and places to eat, but the one under the dome is called "Brasserie du Printemps". A great place to eat in a beautiful environment. A good meal at lunch around 30€. They innovated also with electric elevators which people wanted to see and ride! At Christmas time they have beautiful window displays outside the store. They commission great designers to work on those windows and people come to see them by the thousands! You can have access to the rooftop terrace at Printemps as well as at the next place we'll talk about, which is the Galleries Lafayette. Les Galleries Lafayette The Galleries Lafayette is the only one of the department stores in Paris that has branches all over France. This means that it's a much bigger company. They also opened in 1865. Two cousins from Alsace decided to create this store and they named it after the boulevard. In this store big name clothes makers and cosmetics companies rent space. The building for housewares is spectacular across the street from the building that has the dome. The building is gorgeous and a must-see even if you don't like shopping! They were the first ones to add escalators. The whole center part of the store is open and you can see the dome from street level. There is a glass walk that you can take. It is free but there's usually a long line. When you out onto the glass walk you can be right underneath the center of the glass dome. It is spectacular, but not ideal for folks who are afraid of heights! At the top you'll find a nice cafeteria where you can eat for 20€. It's nothing fancy, but you can look out towards the roofs of Paris. Rooftop access is also free and highly recommended. La Samaritaine This is no longer a department store and it's not going to reopen until some time in 2021. Originally the reopening was slated for 2020, but the pandemic threw a wrench in that. This one is along the Seine River by the Pont Neuf. It was a department store for 135 years, it was built as an Art Nouveau / Art Déco building. We don't know why they other 3 are still going strong and this one has failed commercially. It closed in 2005 and was bought up by LVMH. When it reopens it'll be apartments and stores. More episodes for your first time in Paris Email | Facebook | Instagram | Pinterest | Twitter   Did you get my VoiceMap Paris tours yet? They are designed for people who want to see the best of Paris neighborhoods and put what they are looking at into historical context. There are so many great stories in Paris. Don't walk right past them without having a clue what happened there! You can buy them directly from the VoiceMap app or click here to order activation codes at the podcast listener discount price.   Discussed in this Episode Le Bon Marché [07:45] Printemps [21:52] Les Galleries Lafayettes [29:54] La Samaritaine [39:07] Thank you Patrons and how too you can support the show [48:10] How France is re-opening following the pandemic [49:51] Tip Your Guide Extras Patreon Audio Tours Merchandise If you enjoyed this episode, you should also listen to related episode(s): Explore the Covered Passages in Paris, Episode 29 The glass walkway at the Galleries Lafayette

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