Beyond Berlin

Beyond BerlinStories —big and small— that start in Berlin and look eastward, where Europe´s heart beats and its future unfolds. A blog, a podcast and a journey connecting past and present of our continent, as seen from Berlin and looking beyond, toward the East. Subscribe on beyondberlin.substack.comToday's episode:Sofi Oksanen's "Same River, Twice" and Victoria Amelina's "Looking at Women Looking at War." Two books, one message, three words: woman, war, justice.What does justice look like in the middle of a war? And what does it mean to be a woman facing that war—documenting it, resisting it, surviving it?In this episode, we follow the voices of two writers—Finnish writer and activist Sofi Oksanen and Ukrainian writer Victoria Amelina, killed by Russians in 2023—who were also PEN friends, and whose books speak to one another across borders.From Soviet-occupied Estonia to Putin's Ukraine, from raped ancestors to defiant librarians, from family trauma to battlefield diaries—this is a journey through a war that doesn't only happen on the frontline, but inside homes, language, and memory.We talk about sexual violence, imperial lies, and the myth of the Great Patriotic War. We talk about the silence of one woman, and the thousands who found their voices and took action. And we talk about justice—not only as a deserved verdict in international courtrooms, which we might wait a long time to see, but as an act of storytelling. Which is happening now.Women. War. Justice.📖 Books referencesSame River, Twice: Putin's War on Women by Sofi Oksanen. Published in Finland in 2023. Translated into several languages between 2024 and 2025.Looking at Women Looking at War: A War and Justice Diary by Victoria Amelina, published worldwide in 2025.🎧 This episode and others are available on Substack at beyondberlin.substack.com, where Valentina Giannella shares stories in English, German, and Italian about Europe's past and present. Writing from Berlin, she turns her gaze eastward to where Europe's heart beats and its future takes shape.📌 Subscribe for free at beyondberlin.substack.com to get all upcoming episodes and explore our other content—compelling stories from past and present, stunning photographs, plus diverse voices and book recommendations.Music Credits🎶 Intro/Outro music & podcast theme: “Happy Klezmer” by zec53🎶 Musical Theme: 230 Days of Winter by Ukrainian musician Serge Pavkin (buy me a coffee) Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

Beyond BerlinStories —big and small— that start in Berlin and look eastward, where Europe´s heart beats and its future unfolds. A blog, a podcast and a journey connecting past and present of our continent, as seen from Berlin and looking beyond, toward the East. Subscribe on beyondberlin.substack.comToday's episode:📖 "Berlin Underground" (”Der Schattenmann”) by Ruth Andreas-Friedrich: Uncle Emil's Silent Resistance in Nazi BerlinIn the heart of Nazi Berlin, a group of courageous citizens led by journalist Ruth Andreas-Friedrich said "NO" to the regime, risking everything to save lives and preserve human dignity. Through Ruth's diary, we discover the story of the "Uncle Emil" group, an underground network that helped Jews, forged documents, and organized acts of sabotage, while the world around them descended into horror. This episode traces their deeds, from chalk marks on walls to the liberation of the city, and reflects on the legacy of those who chose to resist when silence would have been easier.📖 The book has been published in various languages. In late 2024, it was republished in German as “Der Schattenmann” (link here) and in English as “Berlin Underground” it has been republished several times, though not recently.🎧 This episode, the complete text with notes and illustrations are published on Substack in the blog beyondberlin.substack.com, where Valentina Giannella chronicles – in English, German, and Italian – Europe of yesterday and today from Berlin, looking eastward, where Europe's heart beats and its future is being defined.📌 Subscribe for free at beyondberlin.substack.com to receive upcoming episodes and read other posts: stories of yesterday and today, photographs from Berlin and beyond, voices and books.Music Credits🎶 Intro/Outro music & theme: “Happy Klezmer” by zec53🎶 Main theme: "Hevenu shalom aleichem" Royalty-Free🎶 Altri segments:  DELOSound🎶 SFX from Freesound Community Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

Two men embark on a profound journey through war-torn Europe in the aftermath of World War II. They uncover the harrowing realities of concentration camps like Ohrdruf and Dachau, witnessing the depths of human cruelty. The quest intertwines professional documentation with personal redemption, as they search for lost family amidst chaos. Their travels highlight the urgent need for recognition of Holocaust atrocities and the deep scars left on survivors. This tale is a poignant exploration of memory, resilience, and the quest for truth.

Show Notes: What Happened to German Memory Culture? Part Three: United and Confused (1990-2025)Episode Overview:This episode explores how German remembrance culture evolved following reunification, examining the challenges and transformations in how Germany processes its past.Key Moments:Post-Reunification ChallengesGermany as social and cultural laboratory ● Contrasting memories between East and West Germany ● Rise of neo-Nazi violence and xenophobia in early 1990sKey Memorial DevelopmentsThe Neue Wache controversy and its transformation ● Creation of Stolpersteine memorials ● Development of the Holocaust Memorial in Berlin ● Wehrmacht Exhibition & Public Response: Groundbreaking exhibition on Wehrmacht war crimes Balkan Wars and German military involvementInterpreting "Never Again" in foreign policy ● NATO participation and Kosovo interventionContemporary ChallengesIntegration of immigrant perspectives ● Colonial past recognition ● Debates over Holocaust uniqueness ● Current institutional uncertaintiesLooking Forward:The episode concludes by examining recent attempts to reform German remembrance policy and the potential development of a broader European memory culture.Deep dives and references: On Beyondberlin.substack.com, you'll find footnotes and a bibliography providing access to the most important literature on German Erinnerungskultur (memory culture) and its debates.This podcast is adapted from a three-part series published on beyondberlin.substack.com titled: What Has Happened to the German Culture of Remembrance?Curated by: Valentina GiannellaMusic Credits: Intro/Outro Music via Loudly Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

What Has Happened to the German Culture of Remembrance?A Historical Review: Debates, Discourse, Pivotal MomentsIn this episode: The Roots, 1945–1989In this episode of Beyond Berlin, we explore the History of the Culture of Remembrance in Germany from 1945 to 1989. We begin by examining the controversy surrounding the bombing of Dresden, which was a military target during World War II.We then address the initial silence of the German people after the Holocaust's horrors were revealed, the Allies' efforts to re-educate Germans, and how some German Protestant Churches in 1945 spoke up to acknowledge the atrocities committed by the German government.Next, we discuss how, after Germany's division, the Eastern government blamed the Holocaust on the West—portraying the West as the capitalistic continuation of the fascist regime while positioning the East as an anti-fascist state populated by victims and resistance fighters. Meanwhile, the Western government attempted to make amends with Jewish people worldwide, partly to regain its place on the world stage, though not without resistance from its citizens.We also examine how the GDR conducted high-profile trials to hold the West accountable for employing former Nazi party members in their government.The final section covers both German governments' efforts to educate their citizens and the world about the Holocaust through trials and media. In 1979, the American miniseries "Holocaust" brought the issue to the forefront, sparking a genuine reckoning with the past in Germany and leading to greater introspection and refugee support.Despite this progress, debates persisted in Germany about whether the Holocaust was a unique event in human history and how to reconcile the past with the present. The 1980s laid the foundation for "Erinnerungskultur" (remembrance culture): after 1979, silence gave way to expression through books, family memoirs (spawning a genre of descendants coming to terms with their families' Nazi past), and conferences. Nevertheless, certain debates revealed Germany's struggle to come to terms with its Nazi history, acknowledge the Holocaust as a unique crime, and accept its permanent connection to Germany.Key moments:Today: Dresden: Memory, Hijacked.1945-1949: The Great Silence.Reeducation through the media: memory, imposed.Breaking the Silence: The 1945 "Stuttgart Declaration of Guilt".The Great Reframing in Occupied East Germany.1950–1967: Coming to Terms with the Past or Drawing a Line Under It?West Germany Starts Investigating Nazi Crimes.East Germany Celebrates its Anti-fascist Struggle.East Germany and its Relationship with Jewish Victims.The "Better State" against the "Still-Nazi" West Germany.Germans Facing The Big Trials.1968-1970: We Need to Talk!Looking Eastward: Ostpolitik and Memory-Building.1970-1978: Filming Between Memory and Propaganda.1979: "Holocaust" and a Nation's Catharsis.1980–1989: Foreign Policy Challenges, Social Tensions, and Historical Debates.1980: The United States Holocaust Memorial project.1985: The Limits of Inclusive Memory.May 8, 1985. Federal President Weizsäcker's speech.1986/87 The Historians´ Dispute: “The Past That Will Not Pass”.1987 Topographie des Terrors: The Material Response to the Historians' Debate.1988: Shadows of the East.Audio segments from public speeches:Dr. Navid Kermani - Speech at the ceremony "65 Years of Basic Law" 2014Speech by Federal President Richard von Weizsäcker on May 8, 1985Music credits:Serge Pavkin Music - Keep WalkingSerge Pavkin Music - Time to say GoodbyeFootnotes, bibliography and more on the topic:Beyondberlin.substack.com: Stories —big and small— that start in Berlin and look eastward, where Europe´s heart beats and its future unfolds.Here you will find the original post, the second of a three-part series dedicated to exploring the genesis, struggles, and contradictions that make German Remembrance Culture still unresolved. Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

Show Notes: "We Fight to Survive"Between 1942 and 1944, a group of families from Nazi-occupied western Ukraine hid in the local caves, with some never leaving for almost one year. This is their story.What does it take to survive in the darkest of times? How can humans endure months or even years without sunlight, fresh air, or certainty of survival? From Kyiv’s sewers to the forests of Poland, from the extermination camps of the Holocaust to modern-day hostage situations, the resilience of the human spirit continues to defy comprehension.This episode brings you the extraordinary story of survival by a group of Jewish families who, between 1943 and 1944, hid in the caves of western Ukraine to escape Nazi persecution. These caves, among the largest in the world, became both a sanctuary and a prison as the families navigated their way through unimaginable conditions for nearly a year.We connect this story with Viktor Frankl’s Man’s Search for Meaning, exploring how purpose and meaning can become the ultimate tools for survival. This is not just a Jewish story—it’s a European story, a human story.Along the way, we’ll delve into:• The unique geography of western Ukraine’s cave systems.• The heroic efforts of the Stermer family and their fight for survival.• How meaning and community can sustain life in the face of absolute despair.• Modern-day parallels to these harrowing experiences.Key Moments:Introduction – Why survival stories like this still matter today.Discovering the Story – From a Wikipedia footnote to a museum exhibit: how this history came to light.The Caves of Ternopil Region – Exploring the geography, history, and cultural significance of the caves.Life Underground – How the Stermer family and others adapted to life in total darkness.Betrayals and Bravery – The dramatic capture and escape of Esther and her family.The Role of Meaning in Survival – Insights from Viktor Frankl’s logotherapy.Modern Echoes – What this story teaches us about resilience in the face of ongoing conflicts today.--The story was featured in National Geographic Adventure in 2004 and inspired both a young adult book, The Secret of Priest's Grotto (2007), and a 2013 documentary featuring Nicola and four survivors. The movieReleased in 2012, is available on Amazon Prime and on YoutubeSources online* Christos Nicola, Peter Lane Taylor, The Secret of Priest's Grotto: A Holocaust Survival Story, 2007* Europe Between East And West, blog: Caving In – Optymistychna: The Ukrainian Underworld, 2021* Відвідай туроператор (Vidvidai Tour Operator): 5 the Most Interesting Caves in Ternopil Region* Smow Journal, Natalia Romik. Hideouts. Architecture of Survival at the Jewish Museum, Frankfurt, 2024 / also in the Frankfurt Jewish Museum website* Public Broadcasting Company of Ukraine, Media Portal, 11 min. documentary on the Ozernaya Cave, 2011* National Geographic Magazine, The Darkest Days, July 2004, via WebArchive.org* Haaretz, How Caves That Have Sheltered People for 6,000 Years Saved Jews From the Holocaust, Jul 22, 2023* Mykhailo P. Sokhatskyi’s scientific contributions on Research Gate focused on the prehistoric history of Verteba and Priest´s Grotto* (Video) Hideouts. The Architecture of Survival. - lecture by Natalia Romik at the Art Biennale Budapest, Nov 2024Credits:Research and narration by Valentina Giannella, based on the sources listed above.Music & SFX:Serge Pavkin “Prolonged Rain”A segment featuring Frank Birnbaum singing Avinu MalkeinuSome personal recordingsSound effects by ElevenLabs and PixabaySound Design: Valentina GiannellaDiscover more and subscribe at beyondberlin.substack.com Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

Rosa Luxemburg – “I Was, I Am, I Shall Be”: Empathy in the Face of Oppression: Rosa Luxemburg's Universal Appeal, Beyond Politics and Revolution. On January 15, 1919, Rosa Luxemburg was murdered in Berlin, marking the tragic end of one of the most extraordinary lives of the 20th century. On the anniversary of her death, we delve into her legacy and ask: why does Rosa Luxemburg, a Marxist theorist and revolutionary from over a century ago, still resonate with us today?In this episode:• The Final Hours of Rosa Luxemburg: A harrowing account of the events leading to her assassination amidst the chaos of the Spartacist uprising in Berlin.• The Revolution’s Myth: Why her final prophetic words—“I was, I am, I shall be”—endure, not as a call to revolution but as a symbol of her humanity and ideals.• The Controversies of Memory: How Luxemburg’s legacy has been claimed, reshaped, and contested across ideologies, from East German state propaganda to her erasure in Poland.• Her Jewish and Polish Identity: Luxemburg’s complex relationship with her Jewish roots and her stance on nationalism, which continues to spark debate.• The Letters of Rosa Luxemburg: A glimpse into the poetic soul of a revolutionary through her correspondence, revealing her love of nature, humanity, and a universal empathy that transcends time.Highlights:• Luxemburg’s famous statement on freedom: “Freedom is always the freedom of dissenters.”• The rediscovery of her literary genius in her letters, which became cultural touchstones and even social media memes.• How Luxemburg’s universal humanism challenges the divisions of our polarised world.Music credits: • Sinfonia In D Minor F.65 Adagio - Johann Sebastian Bach• Music background Serge Pavkin• Soundeffects: PixabayON Beyondberlin.substack.com• Photo highlights of key locations from Luxemburg’s life, including the Landwehr Canal and Zamość, her birthplace.• Quotes from Luxemburg’s letters, including her reflections on global suffering and the interconnectedness of all humanity.SUBSCRIBE TO BEYONDBERLIN.SUBSTACK.COM to get the next episodes and blog posts into your inbox. Beyondberlin.substack.com: Stories —big and small— that start in Berlin and look eastward, where Europe´s heart beats and its future unfolds. By Valentina Giannella, Berlin Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

This episode takes you on a historical walking tour of Vienna, tracing the life and legacy of Theodor Herzl, the father of modern Zionism. Despite facing anti-Semitism and opposition from within the Jewish community, Herzl's dream of a Jewish state was born and nurtured in the heart of Vienna.We explore the complex relationship Vienna had with Herzl, from his early days as an aspiring playwright to his emergence as a visionary leader. The tour highlights significant locations in his life, including his residences, the places where he worked, and the sites where his memory is – and isn't – honored.Key Themes:Vienna's Paradox: The city that nurtured Herzl's intellectual and cultural development also harbored deep-seated anti-Semitism, which ultimately fueled his Zionist vision.The Power of Vision: Despite facing rejection and ridicule, Herzl's unwavering belief in a Jewish state inspired a global movement and ultimately led to the creation of Israel.Memory and Legacy: The episode examines how Vienna grapples with Herzl's legacy, highlighting the often subtle and sometimes controversial ways his memory is preserved in the city.The Jewish Question: Herzl's struggle to address the "Jewish Question" in a hostile environment is central to understanding his motivations and the development of Zionism.Locations Featured in the Tour:Leopoldstadt:Praterstrasse 25 (Herzl's childhood home with a small theatre)Theodor-Herzl-Hof (social housing complex named after Herzl)Inner City:Kolingasse 13 (Herzl's student residence)Zelinkagasse 11 (another of Herzl's residences)Hollandstraße 1 (Herzl's family home)Marc-Aurel-Straße 7 (Herzl's apartment after marriage)Herzl-Stiege (staircase renamed in Herzl's honor)Theodor-Herzl-Platz (small square commemorating Herzl)Back from Paris:Pelikangasse 16 (where Herzl wrote "Der Judenstaat")New Life, New Home:Berggasse 6 (Herzl's family home)Währinger Strasse 5 (publishing house of "Der Judenstaat")Türkenstrasse 9 (office of "Die Welt" newspaper)Sigmund Freud Museum (Berggasse 19)Palestine and Back:Weimarer Strasse 68 (Herzl's residence in Währing)Haizingergasse 29 (Herzl's final residence)The Final Days:Döblinger Cemetery (Herzl's burial place)Musikverein Wien (location of Herzl's memorial service and the XI Zionist Congress)Notable Figures Mentioned:Karl Kraus ● Theodor Herzl ● Empress Sisi ● Gustav Klimt ● Karl Lueger ● Mark Twain ● Sigmund Freud ● Martin Buber ● Kaiser Wilhelm II ● Sultan Abdul Hamid II ● Tsar Nicholas II ● David Lloyd George ● Pope Pius X ● Stefan Zweig ● Franz KafkaQuotes:"Die Wiener lieben ihre Träume, aber sie fürchten die Visionäre." (The Viennese love their dreams, but they fear the visionaries) - Karl Kraus"Ich bin ein Wiener durch und durch" (I am a Viennese through and through) - Theodor Herzl"Wer ein Jud ist, das bestimme ich” (Who is a Jew, I decide) - Karl Lueger"In Wien habe ich alles gelernt, was mich geprägt hat – auch die Konflikte.” (In Vienna I learned everything that shaped me - including the conflicts.) - Theodor Herzl"In Wien bin ich aufgewachsen mit der Ahnung, dass die Judenfrage nicht nur eine soziale, sondern eine nationale Frage ist.” (In Vienna, I grew up with the realization that the Jewish question was not only a social issue but a national one.) - Theodor HerzlMusic: ● J. Strauss II: Geschichten aus dem Wienerwald, Op. 325● Antonín Dvořák, Slavonic Dances, Op.46● Franz Schubert Serenade No. 7 from Schwanengesang● Keep Walking, Serge PavkinVISIT & SUBSCRIBE On Beyondberlin.substack.com you also find imagery and a google map where all the places mentioned in this episode are pinned. Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

Show Notes: Viennese Coffee Culture: A Symphony of Dialects and DrinksEpisode OverviewIf you want to immerse yourself in Viennese culture, the right place isn’t the university—it’s the café. Join me as we explore the soul of Vienna, where dialects mingle, history lingers, and coffee is celebrated in an endless variety of forms. From the Wiener Melange to the legendary Zarenkaffee, this is more than a story about coffee—it’s a tale of cultures colliding and blending in the heart of Europe.In This Episode:• Viennese Dialect and Culture: How the unique cadence of Viennese German reflects the city’s diverse heritage and why dialects, not Hochdeutsch, dominate everyday life.• The Origins of Viennese Cafés: The fascinating (and somewhat legendary) history that ties these iconic institutions to the Ottoman siege of Vienna.• A Literary Pilgrimage: Discover the cafés that hosted the likes of Freud, Kafka, and Zweig, and why their spirit still lingers in Vienna’s coffeehouses.• Your Coffee Cheat Sheet: A delightful guide to navigating Vienna’s coffee menu, featuring everything from the classic Einspänner to the indulgent Kosakenkaffee.Highlights:Introduction: Why the café is Vienna’s true cultural and linguistic heart.The Musicality of Viennese Dialect: A soundscape of the city’s unique linguistic charm.History Served Hot: From Ottoman battles to the birth of the Wiener Kaffeehaus.Literary Legends: The writers and thinkers who made the coffeehouse their second home.Coffee Culture Unveiled: A tour of Vienna’s endless coffee variations—from everyday classics to exotic blends.Sweet Endings: The imperial Zarenkaffee and other unforgettable specialties.Coffee Highlights from This Episode:☕ Wiener Melange – The quintessential Viennese coffee, perfected with milk and foam.☕ Einspänner – A coachman’s favorite, topped with whipped cream.☕ Kosakenkaffee – Black coffee meets vodka and honey in a bold blend.☕ Fiaker – Coffee with rum for a wintery Viennese treat.☕ Zarenkaffee – A regal concoction of espresso and sweetened egg yolk.Soundtrack of the Episode:Immerse yourself in the atmosphere with waltzes, jazzy tunes, and the bustling ambiance of Viennese cafés, including:🎵 Classical excerpts by Mozart🎵 Good mood Walzer🎵 Viennese street soundsTo know, see and hear more stories: 📖 Beyondberlin.substack.com Stories —big and small— that start in Berlin and look eastward, where Europe´s heart beats and its future unfolds. Text, sound, and photography. Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe

Show Notes: From Vienna to the World: The Journey of the 9th Symphony’s Ode to Joy200 years ago, Beethoven composed a timeless anthem connecting people worldwide—from Vienna to Peking, Berlin to Tbilisi—in brotherhood and unity.Episode OverviewSearch for classical music online, and you’ll find countless flash mobs performing the iconic Ode to Joy from Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. This piece has become a universal anthem for unity and democracy, inspiring spontaneous performances and resistance movements around the globe.In this episode, we trace its journey:• Vienna, 1824: The dramatic debut of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony, with its groundbreaking choral finale.• Europe’s Anthem: Why Ode to Joy became the anthem of the European Union.• Global Resonance: Its role in Tiananmen Square, Berlin, Kyiv, Tbilisi, and even Japanese New Year traditions.• A Musical Revolution: Exploring Schiller’s Ode to Joy and its Enlightenment ideals, which inspired Beethoven’s masterpiece.We also reflect on personal and collective moments shaped by this symphony—from Leonard Bernstein’s Ode to Freedom concert after the fall of the Berlin Wall to the Ukrainian Freedom Orchestra’s recent reinterpretation.Highlights• 🎼 Behind the Music: Why Beethoven chose Friedrich Schiller’s Ode to Joy as the centerpiece for his revolutionary symphony.• 🌍 A Global Language: The countless ways people have embraced this music to express shared values of peace and freedom.• 🎤 Singalongs and Resistance: How Ode to Joy has united voices in public squares and protests, from Europe to Asia.• 🎻 Legacy and Adaptations: From Herbert von Karajan’s arrangements to the Ukrainian translation celebrating “Slava” (Glory).Dive deeperOn beyondberlin.substack.com, you will find links to major executons, historical notes and my video recording from Glienicke Bridge in 2019, where we sang Ode to Joy on the 30th anniversary of the Wall’s fall.To get the next episodes and text posts in you inbox, subscribe at beyondberlin.substack.com🎧 The audio podcasts are also available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and all major platforms. Music Credits: ● Royalty free libraries for ochestral. choir and guitar versiond of Beethoven´s Ninth Symphony, as well as for the Intro/Outro music segments● My own recording of 2019 singalong at the Glienicker Brücke, in Berlin/Postsdam Get full access to Beyond Berlin at beyondberlin.substack.com/subscribe