Strong Mind

Hazel sits down with climber, philosopher, and author Francis Sanzaro for a deep dive on the ego—what it is, how it shows up in climbing and life, and how Zen philosophy offers tools to loosen its grip. From ambition, status, and self-worth to the joy (and traps) of goal-setting, Francis draws on decades of climbing experience and insights from Zen and philosophy. Along the way, they explore how the ego shapes who we are and what it means to have a mind that’s truly free. If you’d like help working on your mindset, check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection. LinkSign up to our thought of the week here! LinkTimestamps00:00:10 - Intro00:02:40 - Who is Francis Sanzaro, and how did philosophy meet climbing?00:06:22 - What is Zen, really—religion or self-inquiry? 00:00:10 - intro00:09:09 - What does a Zen life look like day to day?00:12:46 - What is the ego, and how does it show up in climbing?00:16:54 - Are we constantly trading ego like currency in social spaces?00:21:13 - Is striving for success draining the joy from climbing?00:24:48 - Does the ego drive our extrinsic motivations?00:30:34 - Can we set goals without becoming attached to outcomes? Can ego be a tool for greatness or is it a trap?00:37:38 - Are top athletes good examples—or cautionary tales?00:44:26 - How does the climbing community shape our sense of worth?00:49:21 - Can we protect ourselves from external judgment and status pressure?00:56:02 - What simple practices can help us observe without reacting?01:01:58 - Should we feel pride—or let it go like any other attachment?01:05:51 - Does letting go of ego mean feeling less—or feeling more?01:08:24 - Would humanity still strive for greatness without ego?01:12:27 - How does it feel to climb with ego versus without it? What does it mean to have a mind that’s truly free?

In this special AMA (Ask Me Anything) episode, Hazel answers listener-submitted questions covering everything from climbing training, risk, and performance, to motherhood, mindset, and identity. Tune in for candid, off-the-cuff responses packed with personal stories, vulnerability, and actionable advice. Sign up for our thought of the week here! LinkTime stamps00:00:10 – Intro 00:02:03 – How old were you when you started climbing, and when did you realise you wanted to get good? 00:04:49 – What’s been the hardest thing about becoming a mum? 00:06:45 – What’s your favourite cam size? 00:07:23 – What’s the best way to train for outdoor climbing indoors, especially with new-school setting styles? 00:08:59 – If today were your last day climbing, what would you do tomorrow? 00:10:04 – What’s been the most unexpected thing about motherhood? 00:11:40 – What’s the best thing about climbing since becoming a mum? 00:12:45 – What are you most looking forward to next as a climber? 00:13:54 – How have you dealt with being a female athlete in a male-dominated sport? 00:20:08 – What would present Hazel say to past Hazel—and vice versa? 00:22:49 – Does fear show up for you as feelings or thoughts? 00:25:50 – How do you balance hard onsights with the risk of a fall that could set you back? 00:27:58 – Is there a lack of info on how to keep weight on your feet? 00:28:55 – Did fear of performance loss postpone you having a baby? 00:31:07 – If you could only choose trad, sport, or bouldering, which would it be? 00:32:22 – What changes have you seen in climbing in the last 10 years? 00:34:14 – What was it like sharing a tent with Alex Honnold in Greenland? 00:35:33 – Why does climbing bring you so much joy? 00:37:05 – What’s your favourite crag in Scotland? 00:37:59 – What are your daily and weekly routines like? 00:40:13 – Do you adapt your training based on your menstrual cycle? 00:40:44 – What was your first trad lead like, and how old were you? 00:41:12 – Will you go back to climbing in Avon Gorge? 00:42:56 – What was your biggest fear around pregnancy and postpartum climbing? 00:43:41 – What’s the weirdest Euro climbing thing you’ve heard of? 00:43:56 – Has climbing ever become an obsession or addiction for you? 00:45:15 – What are your views on encouraging more minorities in climbing? 00:46:50 – Have you ever felt pressure to perform in your career? 00:50:23 – How can someone start learning trad climbing? 00:51:21 – How has your relationship with risk changed since the “place less gear” interview? 00:52:24 – What challenges have you faced in your climbing career, and how did you overcome them? 00:54:01 – How do you balance climbing and caring for your child? 00:55:03 – How do you balance self-compassion with pushing yourself? 00:57:18 – How do you mentally handle not climbing when your baby needs you? 00:57:53 – When did you realise you were bolder than most climbers? 00:59:53 – What are the biggest mental challenges of being a professional climber that people don’t see? 01:01:21 – How do you think your mindset will evolve as you get older? 01:01:55 – How can I support a bouldering partner who fears falling and being watched? 01:03:15 – How did you change your training during pregnancy? 01:04:27 – How did you pick your daughter’s name? 01:04:55 – How can I support my kids in climbing while also growing myself? 01:06:21 – What are your biggest fears now, and how are you working through them? 01:08:05 – Who was your biggest mentor, and what did they teach you? 01:08:31 – Which country has the best climbing? 01:08:48 – What mental strategies did you learn from recovering from a shoulder injury? 01:09:37 – What sport are you worst at? 01:09:49 – How can I train if I don’t have a partner? 01:10:25 – Did you have rectus diastasis postpartum, and was it an issue for bouldering? 01:12:07 – Does sponsorship of privileged athletes impact confidence in those from less affluent backgrounds?

Hazel sits down with Leo and Jess Houlding and their eldest daughter, Freya. They start with Leo’s legendary adventures, expeditions and first ascents, exploring how his mindset and approach to risk have evolved over the years. Then the focus shifts to family life — from climbing El Cap together to powder skiing in Japan — and what it means to raise resilient, curious, and courageous kids in a world that often prioritises safety above all else.If you’d like help working on your mindset, check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection. Link Sign up for our thought of the week here! Link00:00:00 – Intro00:05:51 – Why did Leo choose to move back to the UK?00:08:56 – Reflecting on his bold climbing days: how does Leo feel about his past now?00:24:23 – Balancing passion and profession: what motivates Leo today?00:31:17 – What advice would Leo give to people who feel stuck in life?00:35:21 – Leo’s biggest fear for his kids00:38:33 – What have Leo’s kids taught him about fear?00:41:40 – Getting the challenge level right for children00:49:49 – Balancing psychological safety and resilience in parenting00:57:01 – Kids and social media: where do they stand?01:06:40 – What it’s really like having an adventurous family lifestyle01:13:37 – Meet Jess Houlding01:17:25 – Making decisions together as parents: how Leo and Jess navigate it01:24:36 – How has this parenting approach shaped their kids?01:26:48 – What motivated the Houldings’ year-long family trip?01:31:22 – Meet Freya: Freya’s relationship with fear and her favourite part of the trip

Hazel and Angus tackle the intricacies of performance psychology for climbers. They explore strategies to manage performance anxiety and highlight the elusive flow state. Listeners learn how to set goals without the burden of expectations, and discover techniques to harness mindset as a powerful tool for climbing success. Insights into balancing mental and physical training offer a holistic approach to the sport. Plus, there's a discussion on social pressures faced in climbing, making this a must-listen for anyone looking to enhance their performance.

Join Aldo Kane, a former Royal Marine and elite safety consultant, and Matt Pycroft, an adventure filmmaker, as they tackle the evolving definition of masculinity in today's world. They discuss the importance of vulnerability and emotional strength for men, particularly in male-dominated spaces like climbing and the military. The duo shares insights on teaching emotional resilience to young boys, the role of fathers in modeling vulnerability, and the impact of social media on men's mental health. This candid conversation aims to redefine masculine ideals while promoting open dialogue about emotions.

Shauna Coxsey is one of the most decorated climbers of her generation, but this conversation goes far beyond competition results. We explore her journey through high-performance sport, injury, identity, mental health, and motherhood. Shauna shares her experiences with anxiety, disordered eating, and the often unseen challenges of life as a professional athlete, including supporting her husband through depression, being dropped by her main sponsor and coming back postpartum. It’s an honest and thoughtful conversation about values, positivity, life-philosophy, vulnerability, and what it means to stay true to yourself, on and off the wall.Check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection here.If you want to join our Thought of the week, follow this linkMental health helpline for your country findahelpine.comTimestamps:00:02:22 - Hazel’s take on some of the themes in the conversation 00:04:27 - Shauna’s climbing beginnings00:08:27 - Choosing the path of a professional athlete00:14:14 - Are you naturally competitive?00:15:39 - Balancing personal motivation in competition00:20:18 - When winning isn’t enough00:26:40 - Shauna's doubts about competition climbing00:28:16 - Injuries and the body’s messages00:32:07 - The Olympic mindset00:38:10 - The tension between performance and well-being00:40:56 - Speaking out about mental health on social media00:51:06 - Shauna and Ned’s story and relationship00:58:24 - Struggles with depression and anxiety and sharing these topics publicly01:05:07 - Managing anxiety today01:11:04 - Mental health perspectives and real life01:20:19 - Eating disorders in climbing01:36:36 - Motherhood01:45:32 - Adidas dropping Shauna

In this episode, I sit down with Barbara Zangler ( Babsi) and Jacopo Larcher to learn more about their ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. They both shared the same goal of flashing the route, however, only Babsi managed to achieve this, making her the first person to have ever flashed El Capitain. Hearing the story from both sides was interesting and unique. We discuss their motivations for climbing this route, what the road to get there looked like and what they both learned from the experience.There is a movie about their ascents on the Black Diamond website, you can follow this link to check it out! Link to video If you want to join our Thought of the week, follow this link.We also have a free performance psychology webinair you can sign up for today, just follow this link.- Timestamps - 00:00:00 - Intro and updates.00:06:24 - When did you both decide to commit your lives 100% to climbing?00:14:53 - Partnership and their climbing journey.00:21:27 - Strategic approach to climbing throughout the year.00:24:10 - Struggles of the first time climbing in Yosemite.00:34:04 - When did flashing freerider become a goal for you?00:41:25 - Did this goal have more meaning to you compared to others?00:48:46- How did you manage the pressure?00:54:15 - Jacopo’s fall on the boulder problem.00:57:25 - Babsi’s flow experience on the boulder problem.01:01:10 - Jacopo on supporting Babsi and managing his emotions after he failed.01:06:34 - Jacopo’s inner critic vs. practising self-kindness.01:09:50 - Babsi’s reflections after the climb.01:14:46 - Is happiness tied to achievement?01:19:27 - What lessons have you both learned from this journey?

WARNING - we do talk about eating disorders in this podcast. In this episode, Hazel speaks with Emily Harrington about her life as a professional climber from when she was a kid competing to now as a mother herself. We talk about how she started climbing and how she fell into competition climbing. We talk about her struggles with having an eating disorder at a young age but how she recovered from it and how she thinks about it now. We talk about how she's stayed motivated throughout her climbing career and how she's managed performance anxiety and stress around big goals. We also talk about social media and external pressure. Then we finally talk about motherhood, how she's taken to motherhood so far and how she thinks about risk as a mother.

In this episode, I speak with Africa Brooke. Africa is a consultant, coach, strategist, and speaker with a unique focus: tackling self-sabotage and self-censorship. We talk about Africa’s path to working in this field, from her childhood in Zimbabwe and her journey with recovering from alcoholism. We talk about how to rebuild confidence, self-worth and self-trust even when you feel ashamed of things you’ve done in your past. We talk about taking personal responsibility and the difference between being a victim and victimhood. We talked about why self-censorship is such an important personal and social phenomenon right now and how insidious it is within the human psyche. We talk about social and emotional risk and the cost to self-trust when we lose our authenticity. Africa works with visible people in the public eye but I think that self-sabotage and self-censorship show up in all of us in different ways and each of us could learn a lot from this conversation.

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Allison Vest about her struggles and progress with mental training in climbing. They talk about how she found competitions hard psychologically and how some of those struggles have carried over to outdoor bouldering which is her main focus. They talk about the gains she's made with her mindset recently and the work she still has left to do. They talk about her recent sends and the psychological tools she used for those sends. They talk about how to balance the desire for the outcome with being focused on optimal performance in the moment. Join our new online course Performance Hacks: https://go.strongmindclimbing.com/performancehacks