The Power Company Climbing Podcast

In this episode Nate and I sit down to answer a few questions submitted through our Instagram Story. Many of the questions were related, so we've tried to piece together a narrative of sorts that answers these questions. More coming! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

While I like to think that all of our discussions here are important, some are just plain bigger picture than others. This one falls into the bigger picture category.  Recorded live at the 2018 CWA Summit, the Women in Climbing discussion brought up many great points and offered several learning opportunities for everyone present. Special thanks to all of the panelists and to the CWA, particularly Emily Moore and Laura Allured, for allowing me to broadcast this discussion.  The discussion was moderated by Renee DeAngelis, and included Lynn Hill, Shelma Jun, Halcy Webster, Sophia Danenberg, Stephanie Ko Pound, and Becca Droz.  NOTE: The url for the CWA Summit given in the episode is incorrect. You can find the correct url below.  To find out more about the panelists, go to https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/women-in-climbing-plenary To find out more or to register for the CWA Summit, go to www.climbingwallsummit.org Follow the CWA on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/climbingwallassociation/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

For most of you reading this, the truth is that the pros are better than you. Why? Are they special in some way? Some of them don't even "train"! How the hell did they get so good?  Nate and I sit down after recording several other episodes and drinking several beers, to discuss the top 5 reasons why the pros are so good. Some reasons you can use to improve your own climbing, some that just depend on your situation. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Dark Horse, Climber's Climber, Undercover Crusher - whatever you want to call it - today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it. If you don't closely follow the comp scene or deviate from the typical climbing news cycle, that is. But if you pay attention, you know and respect the name. I've been aware of Brian for quite some time, and got the chance to sit down with him and discuss his on and off 9 year epic battle with the Fred Nicole testpiece Esperanze (V14). Finding a nemesis in V14 is really not much different than finding one in your first V4. The same lessons, the same frustrations, and maybe, just maybe, the same elation.  You can find Brian on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/bantheunisse/ You can see video of the Texas Legends Comp at https://youtu.be/hTIzNN3BAsU   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all, What is the best hangboard protocol?  You can find Eva and her Fingerboard Training Guide at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ You can read Eva's research papers HERE. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work. This care carries over to all that he does - setting, conversation, everything. I wanted to know where the intersection of his detailed art and his setting happens, and how the calmness and flow he exudes coexists with the competition mindset.  At Ayo's suggestion, we sat down for our conversation at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, which turned out to be the perfect place for this episode.  Check out Ayo's art at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/12/26/episode-117-form-and-function-with-ayo-sopeju Follow Ayo on Instagram at www.instagram.com/think_ele We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we get into training for the Olympics, and Kyra's recent switch to full time climbing and training.  You can find Kyra at https://www.kyracondie.com/ You can follow Kyra on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!" Todays guest, Brittany Goris, is no exception to that rule - except that she somehow pushes right through that mythology and sends those routes. I wanted to know how.  I first learned of Brittany after she redpointed the Index testpiece "City Park", a 13c/d fingercrack with a rich history, and thus, mythology. One that she wasn't immune to, yet she pushed through it.  You can find Brittany online at http://soclosewiz.tumblr.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/gorisb We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

In this episode I sit down with two high-powered women, Eva Lopez and Esther Smith, to discuss how we deal with climbing injury. Not necessarily the details of how to rehab, but best practices for prevention, psychologically coping with, and getting back to climbing after these injuries.  You can find Esther Smith at http://www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com/ You can find Eva Lopez at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

The final part of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.  To Recap: 5. Bad timing - getting into redpoint attempts too early or too late. 4. Getting stuck in bad beta.  3. Making the wrong links or letting links expire. 2. Spending too much time on one route or projecting in general. 1. Projecting in the wrong range.   You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5 We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.