The Business of Fashion Podcast

The pioneering 89-year-old entrepreneur shares her life story as a child refugee who fled Nazi Germany and created a $3 billion technology company. Background: At BoF VOICES 2022, the pioneering 89-year-old entrepreneur Dame Stephanie Shirley discussed her life working with early computers at the London’s Post Office Research Station and how, against all odds, she created a software company for — and run by — other ambitious women, valued at almost $3 billion.  “You could always tell ambitious women by the shape of our heads. They're flat on top and that comes from being patted patronisingly,” said Shirley, describing the sexist work environments of the day. This week on The BoF Podcast, Dame Stephanie discusses the hurdles she had to overcome as a woman in the technology industry, the growth of her influential company, Freelance Programmers, and warns us about the growing power of giant technology companies.Key Insights:Growing up as a child refugee who fled from Nazi Germany Shirley realised that being able to adapt was the key to surviving and thriving. “I realised that change is often welcome indeed, that I could initiate change. And when it was necessary, that sense of personal empowerment took time to develop. But it has never left me,” said Shirley. Freelance Programmers was one of the first software companies that allowed women, who had long left the workforce to create families, to work from home, she explained. “It was a company of women, a company for women, an early social business, a software house which recruited professionally qualified women who had left the industry,” said Shirley.For Shirley, trying to thrive in a male-dominated field like software development, required a little “subterfuge.” After other businesses refused to respond to her letters signed with her name, “Stephanie” Shirley quickly adapted and began signing them as “Steve.” “If I used the family nickname of Steve … customers would not only read them, but pick up the phone to reply. When they discovered that Steve was actually a woman, they were already half hooked,” said Shirley. According to Shirley, as the Internet develops so does the divide between the corporate world and the common Internet user, further widening the gap between the truth and fiction. “Our reliance on digital technology has placed us in the hands of powerful tech innovators and the giant corporations they spawned … They have the power to influence our daily lives in ways few people understand,” said Shirley.Additional Resources:How Technology Can Power a Better Future: During BoF VOICES, The Business of Fashion hosts Dame Stephanie Shirley who discusses her first company, Freelance Programmers and what it was like working in a male dominated industry in the 1960s. Please watch the full interview here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoOtQdBod9U To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

At The Business of Beauty Global Forum 2023, Pamela Anderson shared her perspectives on how the definition of beauty — and the beauty business — is changing with Moj Mahdara.Background: “We're all trying to make ourselves beautiful so we are respected, admired, loved. So these products have to come from a loving place. That’s the secret ingredient: having heart,” said Pamela Anderson at The Business of Beauty Global Forum 2023 in Napa Valley, California.This week on The BoF Podcast, Anderson and Moj Mahdara, managing partner and co-founder of Kinship Ventures and co-founder of BeautyUnited, discuss sustainable beauty products, shame and her own beauty and wellness journey. Key Insights:Anderson’s early experiences with beauty go back to her time at the Playboy Mansion, surrounded by beautiful women who were in charge of their own sexuality. There, watching and learning from powerful women, the former Baywatch star was able to grasp her own femininity. “And I just watched. And I want it to be sexy, too. I found that was powerful and interesting,” said Anderson. The beauty industry has been known to shame women for being older and has consistently pushed an anti-ageing agenda. Anderson believes older women shouldn’t chase youth. “I like embracing our age, embracing looking as good as we can, but also being realistic.”Shame and insecurities caused by the beauty industry and Western beauty standards were recurring topics at BoF’s Global Beauty Forum. According to Anderson, she moves past humiliation with poise. “Grace and dignity no matter what: you hold your head high. Everyone has gone through things that are embarrassing or difficult, but we’re all just people,” said Anderson.Anderson imparted one last piece of wisdom to the room of beauty creatives and innovators. “I'm just this imperfect girl from start to finish who wants to do her part and be a good person in the world and share my story,” said Anderson.Additional Resources:The Business of Beauty Global Forum: How Do We Create Connection? During BoF’s first Global Beauty Forum, Pamela Anderson, Isayama Ffrench and Glossier chief executive Kyle Leahy discussed how brands could better capture attention and secure lasting relationships with customers in an oversaturated beauty market. Lessons From Day One of The Business of Beauty Global Forum. Speakers including John Legend and TooD Beauty founder Sharareh Siadat laid out their vision for a more inclusive beauty industry during the first session of The Business of Beauty Global Forum.The Business of Beauty Global Forum: Where Will Growth Come From? During the second session of The Business of Beauty Global Forum, speakers including Sephora Americas chief executive Jean-André Rougeot and Mielle Organics founder Monique Rodriguez charted beauty’s next stage of growth. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

At Egypt Fashion Week, BoF founder Imran Amed shared the origin story of BoF and reflects on the forces that will shape fashion in the coming decade.Background: In the 16 years since he published his first post on The Business of Fashion, Imran Amed has seen the fashion industry try to adapt to adjust to seismic changes in technology, culture and business — and BoF has been a leading voice in guiding the industry through all that change. But he may never have created BoF if it weren’t for the challenges that he was confronting in his own life. “It is in our struggles that we find ourselves — and that we find our purpose,” he says. In this wide-ranging conversation which took place during Egypt Fashion Week, Amed sits down with Malak Fouad, host of the “What I Did Next” podcast to discuss BoF’s early days, Covid-19’s impact on the fashion industry, fashion in the Middle East and the impact of new technologies including the metaverse and artificial intelligence.Key Insights:Amed, left his job as a management consultant and set up an incubator to support young fashion designers. When that project failed, he channelled his energy into the personal blog he had been keeping and called it The Business of Fashion. “It was for my friends and family to see my journey from McKinsey to the fashion world,” says Amed. During the Covid-19 pandemic, Amed saw BoF’s role as providing guidance and information to those working in the fashion industry in the midst of great uncertainty. “I said, we have no idea what's going to happen. Our job is to act as a guide for the industry as we navigate a once-in-a-century global health crisis,” says Amed. Amed advises companies to lean on local expertise to connect with customers and find success in new markets. “[Fashion brands] need to empower local teams so they can create activations, products, experiences that resonate with customers,” says Amed.Amed believes innovations like AI will change how people work in the industry, though fashion will always need creative people “AI has the potential to impact a lot of the parts of the industry that I think people thought were a bit untouchable,” says Amed.Additional Resources:The Fashion Jobs Most Vulnerable to AI: BoF’s Sheena Butler-Young takes readers through the effects AI can have on the fashion industry, and the creative job market. Luxury Adapts to the ‘New Ramadan Rush’: As the Middle Eastern market grows in the fashion industry, luxury brands like: Dior, Fendi and Valentino are adjusting to the change. To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

BoF’s Imran Amed sits down with Priya Rao, executive editor of The Business of Beauty, to go inside the findings of our new report ‘The State of Fashion: Beauty.’Background:The global beauty industry is booming. “Beauty remains one of the most dynamic, challenging and sought-after industries, much more than other consumer goods — or even fashion,” says Priya Rao, executive editor of The Business of Beauty. “What we've seen is that consumers are so rabid and fervent for their beauty products… and brands are still really excited about bringing a new proposition to market.”This week on The BoF Podcast, editor-in-chief Imran Amed sits down with Rao to break down the five critical themes covered in BoF’s new report, “The State of Fashion: Beauty,” created in partnership with McKinsey & Company.Key Insights:In the oversaturated beauty and wellness market, it can be difficult for new brands to gain consumer attention. To break through, they should first focus on one product or theme before moving to other categories. “[Rihanna’s] Fenty Beauty was known for colour cosmetics until they most recently launched skin care,” says Rao. “They didn't try to launch hair care and injectables and sexual wellness devices all at once.”Expert voices are key when it comes to building trust as a beauty brand. “What dermatologists or aestheticians have done for skin care, we need that in wellness,” says Rao. “The way that wellness really grows is with credibility from the people who are founding these brands and selling these products.”Gen-Z wants beauty products that are more environmentally friendly but also affordable. According to Rao, brands like E.l.f and Milani have been able to address that demand. “They are giving the best experience to beauty consumers, but they also check those boxes of being socially conscious and value driven,” says Rao. Beauty M&A will consist of smaller deals driven by strong underlying financials. Big deals like L’Oréal buying Aesop for $2.5 billion will be a more of a rare occurrence. “Profitability is going to come into play much more… that's across the businesses out there in consumer goods,” says Rao. Additional Resources:The State of Fashion Special Edition | The New Face of Beauty: The special edition of The State of Fashion report by BoF and McKinsey & Company explores the reshaping of the global beauty industry. Download the full report to learn about the key dynamics that will impact all categories in the years ahead, from the rise of wellness to the influence of Gen-Z.The Business of Beauty Global Forum 2023: Streaming Live from Napa Valley, California on May 30-31.To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

BoF’s Marc Bain and a group of panellists break down the state of web3 in fashion and where the technology is headed.Background:Over the last couple of years, the fashion industry couldn’t stop talking about the potential of NFTs, the metaverse, known in tech industry speak as web3. Now, the fervour around web3 has cooled and the speculators are long gone. But for those committed to the web3 space, the work continues, even as the discussion has shifted.“People are pulling back, but people are investing,” said Brian Trunzo, metaverse lead at Polygon Labs. “If folks are still at the education stage, doing research either internally or through agencies, they may have cut budgets and pulled back a little bit, whereas folks who have beefed up and built out teams to execute against their web3 strategy, who have had that requisite education, they're doubling down.”This week on The BoF Podcast, we share a conversation from The BoF Professional Summit: An Inflection Point in Fashion Tech, where our technology correspondent Marc Bain speaks with three web3 experts — Brian Trunzo, Alice Delahunt, founder and CEO of Syky, and Milton Pedraza, the founder and CEO of consulting firm the Luxury Institute — to debate the future of web3 and fashion. Key Insights:“Something that we say in web3 is that it's not so much a bear market, it's a build market,” says Trunzo. Rather than letting a drop in investments define how brands should approach the digital world, consider the performance of the brands that are actually putting resources towards building in the space. Still, there are details that still need to be figured out, the panellists acknowledged. For Delahunt, purchasing a digital Gucci bag on Roblox made her realise how murky digital ownership could be, because virtual items must exist on the platform where they’re purchased. She believes blockchain has the power to change that standard. “Think about the physical world. We’ll go out on the street and there's public infrastructure that is owned by the US government… It’s public, but private enterprise sits on top of it,” she said. “I think of the blockchain as the public infrastructure that people start to build on.”According to Pedraza, this idea of digital identity will only become more paramount as the lines between the online and offline worlds continue to blur. “The technology keeps evolving… but the core principles of data identity, controlling your identity, taking control, monetising or doing whatever you want with your data… will all be supported by these emerging technologies,” he said.No matter what’s trending, Delahunt said the fact that digital tools like Blender and Fortnite can free users of the physical world’s limits. “You've always wanted to be a butterfly, you are not confined in the same way physically… and your ability to express yourselves in those spaces will inevitably be a huge part of the future,” said Delahunt.Additional Resources:How AI and Web3 Are Shaping Fashion’s Future: At BoF’s tech summit experts in technology and creative innovators share their insights on how emerging technologies are impacting the fashion industry. To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

BoF’s Imran Amed speaks with Alec Leach about his manifesto on how we can move towards a better relationship with fashion.Background: For nearly five years, author Alec Leach worked as an editor at streetwear website Highsnobiety, where he spent his “career telling people to buy stuff.” Leach saw up close the contribution his content was having on overconsumption and the lack of responsibility brands and consumers took for their own part on the climate crisis, both subjects he tackles in his book, “The World Is on Fire But We're Still Buying Shoes.” “I love working in the industry. I really, really do,” says Leach. “I think we just all need to accept that we're part of this consumerist machine. And once you accept that, then the kind of potential for positive change becomes clearer.” This week on The BoF Podcast, Leach sits down with BoF’s founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed to discuss how the fashion industry and consumers must change. Key Insights:During his time at Highsnobiety, Leach attended several events, including the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, focussed on sustainability in the industry. But for all the discussion of supply chain and new technologies, he felt that there wasn’t enough talk about what he saw as the core issue. “No one's really asking why we buy so many things,” he said. “It always comes down to overconsumption.”In Leach’s book, he says shopping is part of a consumer's identity because of the role it plays in self expression. “It's important to acknowledge that fashion is intimately connected to our sense of self. That makes shopping a pretty existential experience,” said Amed, quoting Leach’s book. According to Leach, the supply chain is a “nonsensical system” that allows brands to take little accountability for their own manufacturing processes. “Brands aren't really that responsible for what happens in their supply chain, and they're not really responsible for what happens to all these clothes when they're no longer wearable,” said Leach. Leach’s personal experiences in therapy over the course of years helped him dig deeper while writing his book. “That's where a lot of the more psychological and philosophical elements of the book came out, it was about me being in therapy every day, every week and asking myself some very difficult questions afterwards,” he said.Additional Resources:“The World is On Fire But We’re Still Buying Shoes” by Alec Leach: Leach’s debut book or manifesto explores society’s relationship with overconsumption and how consumers can have a better relationship with fashion. To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The Ugandan-born model how he is finding purpose in pursuing an unconventional career to support his family and the community he comes from.Background: At BoF VOICES 2022, fashion model Dennis Okwera spoke about his childhood in Uganda, fleeing home to avoid the violent life of becoming a child soldier in the rebel group Lord’s Resistance Army, coming to the UK as a refugee at the age of nine. Though he was scouted multiple times while living in the UK, it wasn’t until he was attending university that Okwera decided to pursue modelling. This week on the BoF podcast, model Okwera discusses his childhood escaping a guerilla army in Uganda, his adult life as a model in the UK and how he used his success to give back to his community. “Let's just be a little bit kinder to each other, especially to refugees. Just see them with an open mindset; we're just looking for security and freedom, that's it really,” said Okwera. Key Insights:After Okwera was scouted he said at first his father objected to the idea of him modelling. “The first time I got scouted, my dad was like; ‘No, no, you're not doing it.’ You know, this is an African dad who thinks anything outside of education is a complete failure,” he saysWhen Okwera first started his modelling career he had the opportunity to work with designer Grace Wales Bonner when she was still a student attending Central Saint Martins. Thanks to his career in modelling, Okwera was able to put his cousins through school and support his aunt who was diagnosed with HIV. Okwera says the “sole purpose” of him pursuing a modelling career was to support his family. After travelling back to Uganda to donate sanitary essentials like diapers and formula, Okwera reunited with his mother after 24 years of being away. “I didn't know what it was like to have your own mum,” said Okwera. Additional Resources:BoF VOICES 2022: Live Your Best Life: During last year’s BoF VOICES model Dennis Okwera discussed his childhood escaping the rebel group, Lord’s Resistance Army and fleeing Uganda to live in the UK. To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Labour rights activist Kalpona Akter and chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent reflect on where the industry stands a decade after the deadly factory collapse. Background:Ten years ago this week an eight-storey factory complex in an industrial suburb of Dhaka, Bangladesh collapsed, killing more than 1,100 people and injuring thousands of others.The Rana Plaza disaster ranks as one of the worst industrial disasters on record. It shook the fashion industry, shining a spotlight on critical safety failings in major brands’ supply chains. In its wake, hundreds of brands signed a groundbreaking safety agreement that helped improve conditions in thousands of factories in Bangladesh, but elsewhere little has changed.This week on the BoF Podcast, labour rights activist and founder of the Bangladesh Centre for Workers Solidarity Kalpona Akter reflects on where the industry stands a decade later, while BoF’s Imran Amed and chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent discuss what still needs to change.  “If you ask me then, ‘what did you achieve in the last ten years?’ I can say then only the improvement of safety,” says Akter. “The other areas of workers’ rights, like wages, it is still poor.”Key Insights:Fashion remains a dangerous business, with hundreds of people killed and injured in its manufacturing supply chain every year. “You see fires, electrical safety issues, issues around the handling of toxic chemicals, issues with unsafe boilers, really serious incidents that lead to injury and death on a regular basis,” says Kent. Efforts to address dangerous working conditions have been undercut by relentless demand for faster, cheaper fashion. “[It] leads to this race to the bottom, where manufacturers get squeezed and then start to cut corners in different places, from safety to wages to worker well-being. That is a huge systemic macro problem,” says Kent.Consumers have the power to make a big difference by letting companies know they care about how the people who make their clothes are treated. “When they're in the store, if they can go beyond size, colour, style and price and start asking questions from the store managers… I think that would start ringing the bell in bosses’ offices,” says Akter.Additional Resources:How to Avoid Another Rana Plaza | Case Study: In the wake of 2013′s deadly factory collapse in Dhaka, more than 200 brands signed the Bangladesh Accord. BoF unpacks why it’s widely viewed as fashion’s most effective safety campaign.The BoF Podcast: Activist Kalpona Akter on Improving the Lives of Bangladeshi Garment WorkersCredits: 0:24 - CBC News0:46 - ITV News0:57 - Ronald EllisTo subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ahead of the opening of “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty” exhibition, the Costume Institute’s head curator discusses the legendary designer’s work and lasting impact.Background:Andrew Bolton, the head curator of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, first dreamed up the idea for a Karl Lagerfeld-centric show at Lagerfeld’s 2019 memorial service.Next month, that vision will be realised with a new exhibition, “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,” focussed on the late Chanel and Fendi designer. With the exhibit, set to run from May 5 to July 18, Bolton’s goal was to focus on the designer’s prolific career rather than the man behind it.“We wanted to focus on the work rather than the words or the man because he was problematic,” said Bolton. “There were those things he said that were difficult … the one thing that was authentic, real and tangible was his creative output.”This week on The BoF Podcast, BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks sits down with Bolton to discuss the upcoming show and Lagerfeld’s legacy in fashion and beyond. Key Insights:Lagerfeld was a trailblazer in fashion, helping to inspire countless designers who followed him, according to Bolton. “One of Karl's greatest legacies was creating the blueprint for the modern day fashion designer impresario,” said Bolton.His influence transcended fashion, too. “He was somebody who didn't restrict his creativity down to one outlet. He was an interior designer. He was a photographer, he was a writer, he was a theatrical designer as well as a designer,” said Bolton.Bolton said that Lagerfeld was “nostalgic and sentimental,” going as far to recreate his childhood bedroom in his home. That was often reflected in his work, and is examined in the exhibition. “For somebody who loved history so much and consumed history, he could not not look back, and you see those recurring motifs in his work.”Synonymous with Lagerfeld was his signature suit, which featured a severely tailored black jacket and crisp white shirt. Bolton saw that outfit as a simple ensemble not designed to draw attention. “To me, his greatest disguise was a black and white uniform; he created it because it deflected away from anything,” he said.While the exhibition focuses on his work, more of Lagerfeld’s personal life and relationships with collaborators like Amanda Harlech and Patrick Hourcade are detailed in the book that accompanies the show. “I wanted that to be their relationship, their voice,” said Bolton. “They had very specific relationships with Karl, and they're illuminating, but I didn't want that to be infiltrating the thesis of the exhibition.”Additional Resources:Met Curator Andrew Bolton, Quiet Defender of Fashion as ArtKarl Lagerfeld: A Line of BeautyHere’s Why People Are Angry About 2023’s Met Gala Theme, Karl Lagerfeld: When the 2023 Met Gala theme was announced, “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty” the museum received some backlash due to Lagerfeld’s problematic past. To subscribe to the BoF Podcast, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In advance of his first fashion show at The Hollywood Bowl on April 19, the founder of Fear of God shares his approach for designing subtle garments that allow customers a taste of luxury. Background: Jerry Lorenzo, the founder of Fear of God, wants to make his brand an aspirational-yet-attainable destination for consumers, and redefine what’s regarded as luxury. Fashion, he said, should be “equally comfortable as it is elegant.”It’s a mindset he translates across Fear of God’s products, from its Essentials sub-brand, which sells items priced as low as $40, to the pieces that will appear on the runway on Apr. 19, when the brand is set to present its next collection in a show at the Hollywood Bowl in Los Angeles.This week on The BoF Podcast, Lorenzo speaks with BoF’s editor-at-large Tim Blanks in a conversation at BoF VOICES 2022 about how the brand is pushing the boundaries of what’s considered luxury today. “It's luxury in a sense that you can see yourself in it,” said Lorenzo. “It's aspirational in that sense, but it's not a fantasy that is out of reach.”Key Insights:Lorenzo said Fear of God was born out of his own sartorial desires. “When I started the brand, I was really just creating pieces that were missing from the marketplace that I selfishly wanted,” says Lorenzo. “I assumed that others felt the same way.”Even now, Lorenzo says that his life continues to provide direction for where he’ll take Fear of God. Fear of God Essentials Kids, for example, was inspired by his own kids, and he created a women’s line after seeing his wife steal his blazer. “Our brand is evolving authentically with… desires and envisions that I have,” he said. Ambience is hugely important for Lorenzo, which is reflected in the brand’s new Los Angeles-based flagship store. “Our intention is that when you come into the environment, there's a shift that happens and we want to bring you into a space that's beyond just the environment,” he says. For Lorenzo, American luxury today is rooted in the idea of freedom. “It's having the freedom to wear what you want when you want to wear it, and having the freedom to put on something that frees you up mentally and spiritually so that you could be the best version of yourself.”The ultimate goal with Fear of God, Lorenzo said, is to build clothes that last and create style that transcends time. “We're hoping to build a brand that is sustainable in the sense that we'll always be around and that we're creating a product that you hold on to and that you want to keep, not a product that you want to sell or flip,” he said. Additional Resources:Fear of God to Open Next Chapter with Large-Scale Fashion Show for Fans: During BoF VOICES, Fear of God founder Jerry Lorenzo discusses the next steps for his luxury brand. You can catch up on all the videos from BoF VOICES on our YouTube channel, please follow this link. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.