the Sharp End Podcast

Duane Swanson, an experienced climber, shares his harrowing experience of getting stuck while rope soloing and successfully self rescuing. The podcast covers topics such as the basics and risks of rope soloing, the challenges of placing protection in a water groove, and the importance of safety and proper supplies in solo climbing. Check out this episode for an inspiring and informative discussion on rope soloing.

Myriam Bouchard and her partner were at the City of Rocks having an amazing climbing trip. They were on a 5.8 climb called ‘Twist and Crawl’ and when her partner was at the anchor, he told her that he was ready to be lowered. She began lowering him when all of a sudden, the rope slipped through the belay device and he fell 20 feet down to the ground. Listen to hear the entire story and how she explains experiencing, “the greatest terror of her life.” This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

BASE jumping accidents are rarely talked about and I’ve always wondered why. Last month, Derek reached out to me to share his story regarding a BASE jumping accident that he was involved in and I was eager to hear it. He was jumping with three of his good military friends on October 25, 2014 when his lines got twisted very shortly after he jumped off the Roan Plateau in Rifle, Colorado. It was one of the last jumps of the season before weather rolled in and winter began to start. Hear all about his accident, his evacuation and how he’s changing the way the BASE jumping culture looks at accidents within the sport. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. Make sure to vote for the most inspiring rescue of the year at RockyTalkie.com/2023SARaward. Voting closes August 11th at midnight. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In July of 2022, one year ago, just last summer, Bryce and James took a climbing trip to the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range in Wyoming. They planned on climbing the Cirque of the Towers traverse. First, they started out up the South Buttress of Pingora and had a beautiful time on the route. At the top of the climb, that’s when they would start the traverse over to Tiger Tower and then over to Wolf’s Head. All was going just as planned until weather moved in… and weather moved in FAST. Tune in to this episode to hear what happened. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. Jame’s book suggested about decision heuristics: "Thinking, Fast and Slow" by Daniel Kahneman --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd
 -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND 
--> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast
Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Austin Anderson, who experienced a life-threatening heat illness during a climbing trip, shares his story in this episode. He talks about the challenges he faced while climbing, the relief and rescue process, and the discovery of undiagnosed thyroid cancer during treatment. The importance of having the right emergency contact and checking in with climbing partners is also emphasized.

I recently interviewed Christian Beckwith who is (among many additional pursuits) the founder of The Teton Climbers’ Coalition, co-founder of the Alpinist Magazine, founder of the non-profit SHIFT, a skilled alpinist, and most recently, creator and host of the podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. Ninety-Pound Rucksack is a podcast dedicated to retracing the journey of America’s original mountain warriors, the 10th Mountain Division. I am so stoked to share this special bonus episode with all of my listeners! A video version of the interview is available on YouTube. Learn more about Christian and his podcast via the link in my bio or wherever you get your podcast fix. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This episode is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd  --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND --> 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart

Last spring in May of 2022, Matt Randall took a 1,000 foot fall from the top of South Maroon Bell, one that he undoubtedly shouldn't have survived. He was solo ski mountaineering just outside of Aspen Colorado and Matt somehow got lucky and walked away with zero injuries and one broken ski. He wants to share his experience because he believes it would be beneficial for others to hear since he’s convinced there are lots of other people out there with similar human traits. Listen to this episode to hear how someone can survive that long of a fall, and what he learned from his mistake. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On June 3, 2020, two good friends, Kat and Amy, set out to climb the North Twin Sister in the North Cascades in Washington State. They initially had a beautiful weather window so they went for it. They were having a great time when the weather started to move in, visibility got low and they decided to turn around. On the descent, Amy accidentally dislodged a microwave sized rock that tumbled down hitting Kat, shattering most of her hand and breaking through her radius and ulna. Listen into this episode to hear what happened, what they both learned, how they got rescued and the impacts this had on their friendship. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and The American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Sign up to win a $1,000 tuition voucher for any public group course! Voucher is transferable. Expires December 31, 2024. Sign up at thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing is May 15th. → 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Gabs was coming down the Athabasca Glacier after spending nine days winter camping up on the Columbia Ice-Fields. Her crew had just re-supplied two days prior with another ten days worth of food/fuel, and soon after, her ski went parallel to a narrow crevasse and her pulk (a snow sled she was towing behind her) lined up with her body. She then broke through a snow bridge, falling ten meters down into the icy, freezing cold crevasse! Listen into this episode to hear what happened, what she learned, and how she got out of the crevasse. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and The American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Sign up to win a $1,000 tuition voucher for any public group course! This voucher is transferable and expires December 31, 2024. To sign up, visit my website at www.thesharpendpodcast.com and enter the giveaway right on the homepage. Drawing is May 15th. → 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On November 22, 2022, just two days after Thanksgiving, River Barry was gearing up to go mountain biking in Kings Creek, Moab, Utah. Things quickly changed when all of a sudden, a base jumper crashed into the sandstone rock and was dangling ever so delicately 80-100 feet above the ground. River soon found herself in the middle of a rescue. Listen into this episode to hear what happened and what she learned from being at the right place at the right time. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20