the Sharp End Podcast

My guest in this month’s episode set out with a good friend to ski some specific objectives. They started from sea level and toured way up the mountain. This incident happened in Sogndal, Norway. The two of them had a steady ski tour and took the most direct route. Unfortunately, the weather changed and the higher they got, the worse the snow conditions became. This interview is one of only a handful of international episodes that I have produced and I want to help him share his story because Par is a survivor. He has tenacity and grit, and I am so excited for you to hear his full story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In today’s episode, I talk with Avalanche Forecaster and Ski Guide Caleb Merrill. Caleb is also the producer and host of one of my favorite podcasts called The Avalanche Hour. In this episode, Caleb and I talk about common mistakes while recreating during the winter months, ways to stay safe this season in avalanche terrain and much more. Tune in to learn and also get hooked on another epic and educational podcast. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute. Click here to listen to the Avalanche Hour Podcast. Click here for a copy of the AIARE Tour Plan. Thumbnail picture credit: Charlie Renfro → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Steve van Zutphen is an experienced climber, skier, and mountain biker who shares his near-fatal experience in the Chamonix range. He recounts a terrifying night spent stranded in an ice cave while battling severe weather conditions. The conversation dives into the mental toll of hypothermia, the struggle for survival, and the critical lessons learned about self-rescue and safety in outdoor adventures. Steve also reflects on the importance of community, resilience, and thoughtful decision-making in high-risk situations.

Nate Oakes had an epic while climbing a multi-pitch route on Mount Evans in Colorado. He says it was a learning experience in route planning, taking responsibility for making safe decisions, speaking up when you're uncomfortable, and being more prepared for what to do when things don't go according to plan. Now, Nate is a big believer in always carrying the ‘10 Essentials’ out on adventures. Tune in this episode to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, LIVSN, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

May of 2023, Chris set out to rope solo Virgin Wool (5.8 C2) in Arches National Park. The description of the first pitch read: "5.7 - sporty - no pro.” To Chris, it looked harder than a 5.7 from the ground, and he noticed a seam that he thought he could aid up, so he decided to try and aid climb the route. It didn’t go as planned and he ripped out two cams and fell 10 feet to the ground, landing on his heels before tumbling backwards. After a lot of self reflection (and therapy), Chris learned a bit about the psychology of climbing solo, and a bit more about risk management. Tune in this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In April of this year (2024), Tanner and Parker were swept down Mt. Shasta after triggering a wind stab. After a 12 hour ground rescue, they were finally off the mountain, but did sustain physical and mental injuries from the traumatic event. Tune into this episode to hear their story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at US.Amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In March of this year, Brandon took his wife and a visiting climber from Hungry to the Atlantis climbing area in Queen Creek Canyon near Phoenix, AZ. They were warming up on some easy routes and were all thoroughly enjoying the day. On Brandon’s second lead of the day climbing an easy 5.8, things were going fine until they weren’t. From what Brandon later heard from his belayer, wife, and a bystander who witnessed the event, he was approximately 7-8 ft above his last bolt (the second bolt in the climb) and at clipping level to the next one, when a flake of rock he was using as a toehold sheared off quite suddenly. The flake fell and hit his belayer's hand, who had the presence of mind not to lose the rope. Brandon fell, hit a ledge with his shoulder and then head and then hit the ground 20 feet below. Listen here for the full story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and LIVSN. HELMET GIVEAWAY: Brandon feels so passionately about people wearing helmets, that he wants to purchase TWO helmets for TWO people that would be unable to purchase their own helmet due to financial reasons. He was wearing a Black Diamond Capitan helmet when he had his unplanned encounter with gravity (and that’s what very likely saved his life) so that’s the helmet he wants to purchase to give away. In order to be considered for this helmet sponsorship, head over to thesharpendpodcast.com and sign up on the homepage. Remember, this is exclusive to people who do not already have a helmet due to financial reasons. Giveaway will be on September 30th. Good luck! → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Sean Oldfield was climbing Mount Shasta this year in May when he was violently struck in the back of the head by a falling rock on his descent. Despite wearing a helmet (which saved his life), Sean ended up getting flown off the mountain in a helicopter to the hospital, where he received multiple staples in his head, a fractured skull, and a concussion. Tune in to hear the details and what he learned. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and LIVSN. → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Kirk and Fred have been friends for a long time. They have done adventure races together in the past and know where their limits lie. During this adventure, Fred nearly lost his life to heat stroke when they were doing the Rim to Rim to Rim (R2R2R) in the Grand Canyon. Kirk and Fred talk openly about what led up to the incident and how they managed it during and after. Tune in to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie. → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

This is a crazy incident where my guest was bit by a rattlesnake in June of 2022 and ended up in the hospital for 12 straight days. She was climbing at Consumnes River Gorge in Lake Tahoe and it was going to be her first time trad climbing. The crew was getting all set up near the first climb, she decided to use the “facili-trees” (if you will) before putting on her harness. She walked away from the group and found a private area, was about to go when she felt something bit her! Tune into this crazy story of a rattlesnake bite and her long road to recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Institute. Sign up on Instagram to win some climbing gear from Ropelite valued at $185! The kit includes: two 6-foot Red Ultralight Anchor Slings Two 20-inch Ultralight Hitch Cords and One Skimo Tether. That is a $185 dollar value. Drawing is on June 15th. Don’t forget to sign up for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com