Bande à part

We talk about the books we have been reading (good and bad) and Fashion Interpretations, the AHRC-funded networking project Rebecca runs with Judith Clark, which focuses ‘on the ways modern and contemporary fashion is continually reinterpreted through varied mediums’. See links below. Present & Correct: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/ Michael Arlen, The Green Hat (1924): https://www.capuchin-classics.co.uk/capuchin/site/product_rpt.asp?Catid=235 Michael Arlen, May Fair (1925) Hallie Rubenhold, The Five: The Untold Lives of the Women Killed by Jack the Ripper (2019): https://www.hallierubenhold.com/books/the-five/ Fashion Interpretations website: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/ Fashion Interpretations Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fashioninterpretations/

We discuss the list Love Magazine asked Rebecca to make of 10 lesser known designers who have helped to shape fashion. See links below. Rebecca Arnold, '10 Lesser-Known Fashion Designers Who Have Shaped The Industry', Love (5 May 2020): https://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/article/10-lesser-known-fashion-designers-who-have-shaped-the-industry Callot Soeurs: Jessamyn Hatcher and Pari Dukovic, 'Twenty-One Dresses', The New Yorker (23 March 2015): https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-one-dresses Lucile: https://www.vogue.com/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile Madeleine Vionnet: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1936-vionnet-carnival-dress/ Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/0 Geoffrey Beene: https://www.si.edu/object/nmah_360606 Ossie Clark: Osman Ahmed, 'The Fabulous Femininity of Ossie Clark', AnOther (25 August 2016): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8992/the-fabulous-femininity-of-ossie-clark Stephen Sprouse: https://www.thestephensprousebook.com/ Claude Montana: https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/09/claude-montana-king-paris-couture Romeo Gigli: https://www.encyclopedia.com/people/literature-and-arts/fashion-biographies/romeo-gigli Miguel Adrover: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/miguel-adrover Willi Smith: Jenny Comita, 'How will designer Willi Smith be remembered?', W Magazine (28 January 2020): https://www.wmagazine.com/story/willi-smith-street-couture-alexandra-cunningham-cameron/ Sterling Ruby: Luke Leitch, 'Artist Sterling Ruby Turns Fashion Designer, Launches S.R. Studio. LA. CA. at Pitti Uomo', Vogue (14 June 2019): https://www.vogue.com/article/artist-sterling-ruby-turns-fashion-designer-launches-sr-studio-la-ca-at-pitti-uomo

We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below. Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/ Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2 MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

We talk about the clothes of our favourite characters from the fabulous Peter Bogdanovich film What’s Up, Doc? See links below. Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume designer), What’s Up, Doc? (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069495/ Aaron Hunter, Polly Platt: Authorship by Design (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsXW2H3_wIo Adam Hulin (director), By Bogdanovich, part 1 (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jw2FMVsZdTA Howard Hawks (director), Howard Greer (costume design, gowns), Bringing Up Baby (1938): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0029947/ Marimekko: https://company.marimekko.com/en/about-marimekko/history/ Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), Paper Moon (1973): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070510/ Peter Bogdanovich (director), Polly Platt (production and costume design), The Last Picture Show (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067328/

We discuss our favourite designers, wondering what criteria we should use to decide on our favourite designers ... See links below. Hans Holbein, Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan (National Gallery, London, 1538): https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-holbein-the-younger-christina-of-denmark-duchess-of-milan Witt Library: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/resources/image-libraries/witt-library Headdress Frames, Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/results?terms=headdress%20frame Joanna Freedman, A study of female dress worn in England, c.1525-1545: with specific reference to the Lisle Letters, Courtauld Institute of Art Dissertation (1991): https://tinyurl.com/qmk68ft Simone Rocha: https://simonerocha.com/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism’, in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf Elsa Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-vendome/the-life-of-elsa/ Pierre Balmain, My Years and Seasons (Cassell 1964): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/My_Years_and_Seasons.html?id=Hv7bAAAAMAAJ Louiseboulanger, Evening dress, Metropolitan Museum of Art (1928): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83209 Rebecca Arnold, 30-Second Fashion (Ivy Press 2016): https://www.quartoknows.com/books/9781782406679/30-Second-Fashion.html Jeanne Lanvin: https://www.lanvin.com/fi/maison/jeanne-lanvin/ Jeanne Lanvin, Palais Galliera, Paris (8 March - 23 August 2015): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin ‘Indiscrétions : le New Look 49’, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath and Maggy Rouff (1949): https://www.ina.fr/video/AFE85002936/indiscretions-le-new-look-49-video.html Dans l’atelier de Sonia Rykiel, Archive INA (1969): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnbc3z40ZsU ‘Helmut Lang: The Searching Stays with You', 032c (19 December 2013): https://032c.com/helmut-lang-the-searching-stay-with-you 'Romeo Gigli on Photographic Collaborations', AnOther (31 July 2012): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/2094/romeo-gigli-on-photographic-collaborations Maison Margiela, Fall 2012 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-couture/maison-martin-margiela Jean-Paul Gaultier: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/fr-fr/le-createur/ Katharine Hamnett: https://katharinehamnett.com/ Dries van Noten: https://www.driesvannoten.com/

We talk about the incredible 1915-16 crime serial Les Vampires and its compelling star Musidora AKA Irma Vep ... See links below. Louis Feuillade, Les Vampires (1915-16): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0006206/ Les Vampires on archive.org: https://tinyurl.com/rylbufl Cinémathèque Française, Musidora sur le web (3 December 2019): https://www.cinematheque.fr/article/1492.html Musidora talks to journalist Jean Thévenoz in 1948: https://www.rts.ch/archives/radio/divers/emission-sans-nom/4523749-musidora-la-vamp.html Site of Les Amis de Musidora: https://www.musidora.org/ ‘La vie d’une vamp par Musidora (Ciné-Mondial 1942)', La Belle Equipe(29 June 2015): https://www.la-belle-equipe.fr/2015/06/29/la-vie-dune-vamp-par-musidora-cine-mondial-1942/ Vicki Callahan, 'Zones of Anxiety: Movement, Musidora, and the Crime Serials of Louis Feuillade' (Wayne State University Press 2005): https://www.wsupress.wayne.edu/books/detail/zones-anxiety Palais Galliera, ‘Anatomie d’une Collection’ (2016): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/fr/edition/anatomie-dune-collection (contains photo of one of Musidora’s bodysuits) Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d'Or et les Apaches’, Le Blog Gallica (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop Ossi Oswalda: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0652661/ Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/

We talk about the TV programmes we currently find solace in - which in our case means Cheer and The Real Housewives – and what they tell us about ourselves, fashion and beauty. See links below. Greg Whiteley (director), Cheer (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11426660/ Scott Dunlop (creator), The Real Housewives of Atlanta (2008-): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1252370/

We talk about the fabulous Louise Weber, better known as La Goulue, a French Cancan dancer whose photos feature in the Musée de Montmartre in Paris. See links below. Musée de Montmartre: https://museedemontmartre.fr/ Jean Renoir (director), Rosine Delamare (costume design), French Cancan (1955): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046998/ La Goulue retrouve Montmartre, 12/13 Paris Ile de France (16 March 1992): https://www.ina.fr/video/PAC02021108/la-goulue-retrouve-montmartre-video.html Portrait - La Goulue femme libérée, Télé Matin (1 April 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEjraI9pdeI Maryline Martin, La Goulue: Reine du Moulin Rouge (éditions du Rocher 2019): https://www.editionsdurocher.fr/livre/fiche/la-goulue-9782268101200 Nadine Biss, La Goulue, ARTHive Revue (15 September 2014): https://wheatonarthive.wordpress.com/2014/09/15/la-goulue/ Michel Souvais, Moi, la Goulue de Tolouse-Lautrec(Publibook des Ecrivains 2008) François Gasnault, Nuits parisiennes: Chahut, cancan et galop infernal..., talk coinciding with the exhibition ‘Les nuits parisiennes, du Palais-Royal au Palace’ at l'Hôtel de Ville de Paris 2017-2018 (2 January 2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGeoPOjIEbA Photographic cabinet card showing Kitty Lord, Museum of London (early 20th century): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html

We discuss Lisa Immordino Vreeland’s beautifully conceived and edited documentary about Cecil Beaton. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, Research Forum Events (2020): https://courtauld.ac.uk/research/research-forum/events Cecil Beaton, Designs for the ballet Apparitions (1936): https://tinyurl.com/t96zg5r Carte de visite of Kitty Lord: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/717253.html Kitty Lord’s pink boots: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/431352.html Lisa Immordino Vreeland (director), Love, Cecil (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5275884/ Bill Verity (director), Beaton by Bailey (1971): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2205427/ Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sothebys: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/cecil-beaton-studio-archive Cecil Beaton’s royal portraits at the V&A: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/cecil-beaton Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion (first published in 1954): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847843855/ Leslie Howard and Maurice Elvey (directors), The Gentle Sex (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035931/ George Cukor (director), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ Vincente Minelli, Charles Walters (directors), Gigi (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051658/ Vincente Minelli (director), On a clear day you can see forever (1970): (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066181/ André Previn (music) and Alan Jay Lerner (lyrics), Coco (1969), excerpt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g7o6sjrqcg

We discuss Basil Dearden’s fascinating 1959 film Sapphire - which shows the intricacies of identity in post war London. See links below. Basil Dearden (director), Julie Harris (costume design), Sapphire (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053242/ Sapphire on Retrospective’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HYYhQwYZEE Sapphire on Reelstreets: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/sapphire/ Josephine Botting, ‘Remembering Julie Harries: costume designer for Bond and Hitchcock’, BFI (2 June 2015): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/remembering-julie-harris-costume-designer-bond-hitchcock ‘The Look of Austerity’, special issue of Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rfft20/21/4?nav=tocList Lynda Nead, ‘”Red Taffeta Under Tweed”: the color of post-war clothes’, Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://eprints.bbk.ac.uk/30543/ Roger Mayne, Southam Street: http://www.rogermayne.com/sstreet/southamstreet.html Bryan Forbes (director), Beatrice Dawson (costume design), The L-Shaped Room (1962): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0057239/