Bande à part

We talk about Nadya Wang’s brilliant analysis of the work of photographer Yip Cheong Fun and the amazing style of Cab Calloway and the Nicholas Brothers. See links below. Nadya Wang, ‘Framing the Body: Yip Cheong Fun and Singapore Photography in the 1960s and 1970s’, part of ‘Addressing Images, The Courtauld (28 January 2022): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0grnWoBZXok Fred Waller (director), Cab Calloway’s Hi-De-Ho (1933): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109262-Cab-Calloway's-Hi-De-Ho and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spBLdH5mtyk Fred Waller (director), Jitterbug Party (1934): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109355-Jitterbug-Party and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMQVZYoNWIw Billy Wilder (director), Some Like It Hot (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053291/ Andrew L. Stone (director), Helen Rose (costume design), Stormy Weather (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036391/ Clip from Stormy Weather (1943): https://cabcallowayfoundation.org/cab-calloway-bill-robinson-nicholas-brothers-stormy-weather/ Cab Calloway at the Smithsonian: https://www.si.edu/search/collection-images?edan_local=&edan_q=cab%2Bcalloway& Cab Calloway on the Zoot Suit, Docs & Interviews on MV (20 March 1986): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-3JuVFJrY8 Dave Fleischer (director), Willard Bowsky and Ralph Somerville (animators), Betty Boob - Minnie The Moocher (1932): https://youtu.be/N7VUU_VPI1E

We talk about London’s Fashion & Textile Museum’s exhibition: ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’. See links below. Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’, Fashion & Textile Museum, London (1 October 2021 - 13 March 2022): https://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitions/beautiful-people-the-boutique-in-1960s-counterculture Mark Butterfield, ‘Granny Takes A Trip, Golden Lily Jacket, 1966’, C20 Vintage Fashion (20 September 2020): https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/post/granny-takes-a-trip-golden-lily-jacket-1966 and other posts: https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/blog The Peter Feely Experience, Perfumed Garden Productions, YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZKLKwxbpv1vc9lfBO0kAw/featured Malcolm Hall: http://malcolmhall.london/gallery/#category_id_48 Paul Reeves: https://www.instagram.com/paul_reeves_london/ Marisa Martin: https://www.marisamartin.com/tutors.html Raphael Samuel, ‘Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture’, Verso (first published 1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory

We talk about Lucy Moyse Ferreira’s fascinating, recently launched book ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’. See links below. Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Robin Givhan, ‘André Leon Talley became an icon by never losing faith in the glory of fashion’, Washington Post (19 January 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/01/19/andre-leon-talley-appreciation/ André Leon Talley, ‘A.L.T.: A Memoir’ (Villlard 2003) André Leon Talley, ‘The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir’, read by ATM (Penguin Random House 2020): https://www.penguinrandomhouseaudio.com/book/609773/the-chiffon-trenches/ ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Lucy Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’ (Bloomsbury Publishing 2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126282/ Lucy Moyse Ferreira: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/ual-staff-researchers/lucy-moyse-ferreira

We delve into Jacques Demy’s weird, psychedelic fairy story ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970) and wonder about its many meanings. See links below. Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Jacques Demy (director), Agostino Pace (costume design), Gitt Magrini (costume realisation), Peau d’âne (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Charles Perrault, ‘Donkey Skin’, from: Charles Perrault, ‘Old-Time Stories told by Master Charles Perrault’, translated by A. E. Johnson, New York: Dodd Mead and Company (1921): https://sites.pitt.edu/~dash/perrault11.html Charles Perrault, ‘Contes des fees ...’ (1817): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f181.item and https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f206.item Célia Bellache, ‘Les costumes et décors de Peau d’Âne de Jacques Demy’, Florilèges (2 January 2021): https://florilegeswebjournal.com/2021/01/02/les-costumes-et-decors-de-peau-dane-de-jacques-demy/ Rodney Hill, ‘Donkey Skin (Peau d’âne)’, Film Quarterly, 59/2 (Winter 2005/2006): https://doi.org/10.1525/fq.2005.59.2.40 Anne E. Duggan, ‘The Camping of “Donkey Skin”: Jacques Demy’s Cinematic Re-Vision of a Classic Tale’, in: Queer Enchantments: Gender Sexuality, and Class in the Fairy-Tale Cinema of Jacques Demy, Wayne State University Press (2013) Natalie Olah, ‘Jim Leon’, Dazed (28 October 2012): https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/14960/1/jim-leon Videos relating to the filming of Peau d’âne: https://www.cinematheque.fr/zooms/demy/en/toutes_les_videos.php Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ Taking care of your Lederhosen: https://www.spieth-wensky.de/trachtentrends/lederhosenhandbuch/

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier’s obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas’ and why it led him into fashion design. See links below. Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/ ‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker’s Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release’, The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/ See also our previous episode (132) about Falbalas: https://soundcloud.com/bande-a-part-rb/132-falbalas

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain’s 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin’. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin’ (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d’Or et les Apaches’ (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop ‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Images of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001614300.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001680232.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001615180.locale Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ John Julius Norwich (ed), The Duff Cooper Diaries: 1915-1951, Weidenfeld & Nicholson (2006): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/john-julius-norwich/the-duff-cooper-diaries/9780753821053/ Hebe (née Constance Irene Vesselier, later Mrs Kingsland): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp123322/hebe-ne-constance-irene-vesselier-later-mrs-kingsland Eve And Everybody’s Film Review: http://bufvc.ac.uk/newsonscreen/search/index.php/series/80 Jenny Hammerton, ‘For Ladies Only? Eve’s Film Review: Pathe Cinemagazine 1921-33’, Projection Box (2001) Perspex Samples: https://www.hindleys.com/perspex-samples.html Christmas Trees, Cox & Cox: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/christmas/christmas-trees/

We talk about the amazing costume designer Sandy Powell who recently talked about her work at the Victoria & Albert Museum. See links below. We’d also love you to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast You Must Remember This, ‘Gossip Girls: Louella Parsons and Hedda Hopper (The Queer, Female Film Producer You’ve Never Heard Of, Episode 5)’, (31 May 2021): http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/episodes/2021/5/5/gossip-girls-queer-film-producer-5 Walter Lang (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘Love Before Breakfast’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027908/ Gregory La Cava (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘My Man Godfrey’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/ Richard Dyer, ‘White’, Routledge (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044 Past event: ‘Online Talk: Sandy Powell in Conversation’, Victoria & Albert Museum (7 November 2021): https://www.vam.ac.uk/event/awz4mQnapkN/online-talk-sandy-powell-in-conversation Sandy Powell: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0694309/ Sandy Powell’s Autograph Suit auctioned at Phillips in 2020: https://www.phillips.com/detail/sandy-powell/UK090320/1 The Female Lead: https://www.thefemalelead.com/about-us Piere Bourdieu, Yvette Delsaut, ‘Le couturier et sa griffe: contribution à une théorie de la magie’, Actes de la Recherche en Siences Sociales (1-1, 1975): https://www.persee.fr/doc/arss_0335-5322_1975_num_1_1_2447 Colleen Kelsey, ‘Fashioning Sandy Powell’, Interview (18 February 2016): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/sandy-powell ‘Behind the Seams: An interview with Sandy Powell’, podcast episode (7 June 2020): https://www.angelsbehindtheseams.com/podcast/episode0010/ ‘Emily Blunt on the costumes of “Mary Poppins Returns”’, Variety Artisans (20 December 2018): https://youtu.be/BiYgPfpjSCk Julie Miller, ‘How Sandy Powell, Oscar-Winning Costume Designer, Ventured Outside Her Comfort Zone’, Vanity Fair (6 November 2017): https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/11/wonderstruck-sandy-powell ‘The Rake’s Progress: An Introduction’, Glyndebourne (23 August 2010) – shows David Hockney’s designs: https://youtu.be/DxeeWlp4AZ8 Alex Marshall, ‘Lindsay Kemp, Dancer Who Taught David Bowie, Is Dead at 80’, New York Times (29 August 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/29/obituaries/lindsay-kemp-dead.html ‘Lindsay Kemp Dies at 80’, Gramilano (25 August 2018): https://www.gramilano.com/2018/08/lindsay-kemp-dies-at-80/ Kazuo Ono, ‘The Dead Sea’ (1980s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUjhQLB0hXY

Even super-heroes sometimes need a little break ... This week we are reposting our discussion from about a year ago of John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

We talk about the thought-provoking exhibition of Helen Levitt’s work at the Photographer’s Gallery in London. See links below. ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Photographers’ Gallery, ‘Helen Levitt: In The Street - Interview with exhibition curators Walter Moser & Anna Dannemann’ (26 October 2021): https://youtu.be/IfvaZBoIuYw Helen Levitt, Janice Loeb, James Agee, ‘In The Street’ (1948), The Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://youtu.be/hznvV2bBkX4?t=194 ‘Tomorrow is Ragamuffin Day’, New York Genealogical and Biographical Society (23 November 2016): https://www.newyorkfamilyhistory.org/blog/tomorrow-ragamuffin-day Vincente Minelli (director), Irene (costume supervisor), ‘Meet Me in St. Louis’ (1944): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0037059/ ‘Helen Levitt’s Indelible Eye’, All Things Considered, National Public Radio (17 January 2002): https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1136521 (interview with Helen Levitt by Melissa Block) Hamleys: https://www.hamleys.com/ Wilterminus, ‘The Sound of dial-up Internet’ (10 November 2008): https://youtu.be/gsNaR6FRuO0

In our Halloween Special, we learn how magic and fashion combine in Anna Biller’s fabulous technicolour extravaganza ‘The Love Witch’. See links below. Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ ‘#8 - Anna Biller, Filmmaker of “The Love Witch”, a conversation with Pam Grossman of The Witch Wave (31 January 2018): https://witchwavepodcast.com/episodes/2018/1/31/anna-biller-filmmaker-of-the-love-witch Emma Willis (key makeup artist): https://www.instagram.com/emmawillishmu/ Jester Puppet: Barry Morse https://www.instagram.com/barry_morse_artist/ Jacques Demy (director), Gitt Magrini (costume design), ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘The Secret Life of the Arrow Collar Man, an Early 20th-Century Sex Symbol’, Vogue (12 June 2017): https://www.vogue.com/article/pride-2017-leyendecker-arrow-collar-man-sex-symbol Rains: https://www.uk.rains.com/collections/bags