The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingClimbWell Retreat:climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christine-deyoNuggets:2:30 – Christine’s dad, and falling in love with bouldering4:44 – Why Oregon?6:02 – Studying biochemistry, unemployment, and discovering route setting9:38 – The Nightly Business Report on PBS11:58 – Christine’s early route setting education14:26 – How route setting qualifications have evolved, and what Christine looks for when hiring a route setter18:57 – Three notable chapters in Christine’s evolution as a route setter28:36 – What makes a good setter?34:33 – The circuit system at the Bouldering Projects36:33 – How circuits work in Fontainebleau41:22 – How grades work within circuits44:23 – Combining the circuit system with the training boards, and improving at climbing aside from strength47:10 – How Christine uses the circuit system for training purposes50:45 – Patron question from Tyler: What are your thoughts on parkour-style setting and balancing that with movement found on real rock?58:16 – Patron question from Joe: Are there ways to get setters around the world to collaborate more?1:03:17 – Patron question from Tim: Where do you draw inspiration from when setting routes? (Christine’s collection of note cards.)1:07:30 – Creativity can be learned, creating constraints, and route setting challenges/games1:13:01 – Tonde’s email, the responsibility of setters, and the role of diversity in route setting1:20:31 – Questions from Tonde: What value do female setters bring to a setting team? Why bother with diversity?1:26:28 – More questions from Tonde: Is setting art? Where is setting going? The future of setting for competitions?1:30:45 – The role route setters play in competitions1:44:52 – What is the value of route setters in the climbing industry?1:47:50 – Safety in route setting1:53:06 – Setter salaries, ages, and turnover1:56:54 – How we move setting forward as a profession2:02:03 – Christine’s tips for taking care of yourself as a route set2:09:04 – Christine’s career, and what’s next2:14:19 – Learning to set dynos2:19:55 – Gratitude 

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 48:46.

Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronClimbWell Retreat:climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hazel-findlayNuggets:5:00 – Talking across time zones, and Hazel’s home in Wales7:00 – Masters studies, Brexit + covid, and Hazel’s lifestyle these days9:33 – Being trapped on the ferry curing covid11:25 – Weather in Wales16:11 – Priorities, balancing climbing, coaching, and school, and doing stuff that involves others20:52 – Coaching is asking questions, and helping people figure out what they want and how they can get there25:27 – The ego27:42 – How the ego manifests in our climbing, and loosening our attachment to outcomes30:52 – Patron Question from Tyler: What type of people are most likely to seek coaching?33:42 – Patron Question from Tyler: Differences between men and women (in general) when it comes to fear of falling37:05 – Patron Question from Tyler: Advice when supporting someone who is working on their mental game?40:37 – More resources on fear of falling41:32 – Patron Question from Kellen: Differences between advanced and new climbers when it comes to mental training needs.43:17 – Patron Question from Will: How to balance between confidence vs. cockiness, and cultural differences in confidence48:46 – Magic Line description54:51 – Hazel’s mental practice while climbing Magic Line58:18 – Jasna’s email, and what inspired Hazel about Magic Line1:04:19 – Question from Jasna: How did Hazel prepare for the possibility of failure?1:07:37 – Keeping your head and climbing better1:08:40 – Daily mental practices 1:11:20 – Hazel’s thoughts on the lack of publicity of Magic Line1:15:17 – Patron Question from Jen: Any advice from Hazel’s shoulder surgery and recovery?1:24:03 – Patron Question from AnnaMarie: Most memorable climb? 1:25:03 – Next El Cap route?1:25:56 – Escaping to Greece during covid, and her upcoming trip to the states1:29:14 – How to connect with Hazel1:30:18 – Gratitude

Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin the Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolfNuggets:3:17 – Overview of the conversation5:22 – Robb’s breakfast breakdown9:22 – Savory breakfast, protein, and how Robb navigates nutrition with his kids13:49 – Robb’s background in biochemistry, studying cancer, ulcerative colitis, and his path to ancestral diets and paleo in 199817:34 – Establishing the 1st and 4th Crossfit Affiliate gyms, working with athletes on their nutrition, and helping normal people with complex health issues22:13 – Why I (Steven) appreciate Robb’s mindset around learning and coaching, and some of the issues Robb witnessed with hard-charging Crossfit athletes, and when low-carb and fasting might be inappropriate30:04 – Common symptoms other than leanness that can be tied to our diets36:00 – Biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations from Robb related to diet and lifestyle (protein and sleep) 39:51 – The importance of sleep, and the effects of sleep deprivation42:34 – Robb’s parallel sleep universe44:14 – Practical recommendations for a climber at a burger joint, and Robb’s breakfast club46:46 – Protein powders and supplements vs. whole foods51:05 – Sacred Cow, a case for better meat, and breaking down the carbon and methane life cycle of beef production1:02:33 – Water use for beef and almonds1:06:00 – Putting on your high school debate hat, and reversing desertification with ruminant animals1:09:17 – Forbes article, and how big food and big pharma benefit from a meatless planet (and why that should concern us)1:11:21 – Is the solution still to eat “less” meat? 1:21:09 – Patron Question from Max: Are hotdogs Paleo?1:21:59 – Patreon Question from Yoni: How does Robb challenge his own beliefs and biases? 1:28:05 – LMNT electrolytes  and The Healthy Rebellion1:31:33 – Gratitude

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:47:11.

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelsonNuggets:2:18 – Doughnuts and wiffle ball6:08 – Overview of the conversation, and Tyler’s dad11:53 – Chiropractic medicine and watching his dad help people as a kid14:48 – Tyler’s education16:38 – Starting to climb in college18:43 – Wanting to work with athletes, and studying tendinopathy21:06 – Tyler’s path to C4HP (Camp 4 Human Performance) and the work he does now25:48 – Root cause28:29 – Tyler’s most common recommendation: more variation32:33 – How BFR (blood flow restriction) was created37:31 – What BFR looks like, what’s happening, and why it works45:41 – How you would use BFR for a shoulder injury, and literal vs. physiological intensity51:36 – How you would use  BRF to rehab a pulley injury54:18 – Why Tyler underpressurized the cuffs the first time he does BFR with an athlete56:33 – Should you try BRF at home?58:43 – A BRF protocol Tyler tried for finger strength training1:02:40 – How you might use BRF for training (big picture)1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR?1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool?1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated1:20:09 – Density hangs1:22:58 – Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Bar, and the “No Hangs” hangboard protocol1:31:20 – The optimal loading range for tendon pathologies, and why most strength protocols are more similar than they are different1:34:45 – Tendon stiffness, and how unloading can stiffen the system1:38:58 – Speculating about physiological explanations for why Emil’s program worked so well1:40:58 – Don’t get sweaty and tired on the hangboard, and separating hangboard training from our climbing workouts 1:44:58 – Finger anatomy, condiles, bone lengths, customized finger training1:52:33 – Doughnut eating1:53:46 – New tattoo1:55:03 – Guitar riffs1:57:20 – Tyler’s wife

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehlNuggets:2:05 – Karate6:48 – Power screaming and made-up words9:20 – ‘Count to Six and Die’ 10:47 – Growing up in a small town in Maryland, climbing trees, the basement home wall, and Jason’s go-to move15:53 – Parental support16:34 – Jason’s journey to bouldering, and climbing ‘Evilution’20:25 – Getting noticed for highballing, and bouldering ‘The Fly’ 25:15 – Joe’s Valley27:29 – Jason in High School, pocket protectors, and the weird kid’s lunch table30:51 – Developing his image, sponsorship, and performing for an audience32:45 – The competition disguise33:50 – Jason’s theme song35:25 – A chronicle of Jason’s hairstyles42:30 – The Dreaded Wudan Mullet43:30 – A chronicle of Jason’s vans47:35 – Falling in love with Hueco, and climbing in the summer52:30 – Are there any FAs left in Hueco?55:37 – Having kids, and focusing your time1:06:38 – Cargo nets1:17:35 – Social Media, and being a professional climber1:25:44 – Patron Question from Logan: What was the most difficult part of dropping everything to be a pro climber?1:28:01 – Odd jobs1:29:39 – Patron Question from Will: How did the NE influence his climbing? 1:33:16 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you ever go back and repeat dangerous climbs you’ve done before?1:35:53 – Gratitude1:37:40 – Don’t give away the beta1:41:22 – Reminders and stuff I’m excited about 

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vestNuggets:3:24 – The climbing closet4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace11:23 – A mix of emotions12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities 24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”41:47 – Instagram Challenges (backpack and shorts dynos45:06 – The standing splits challenge47:33 – Combining training with play52:43 – Priorities vs. powering through, and how Allison got the nickname “Big Al” 59:26 – Allison’s training volume, and comparing different high-level climbers1:03:11 – Campusing 1:05:42 – One-arm hangs1:16:25 – Shoulder strength1:17:41 – Christian Core’s hangboard philosophy1:20:07 – Grip positions1:21:52 – Allison’s hangboard schedule, and many different approaches that work1:25:38 – Starting to climb outside more1:27:36 – Topouts1:38:09 – How outdoor climbing compliments competition training1:45:20 – Patron Question from Jimmy: Most memorable competition moment?1:47:01 – Patron Question (anonymous): What does she miss the most about Vancouver/Squamish? And the least? 1:50:47 – Patron Question from Jordan: Can you introduce me to KJ Apa?1:52:31 – Jonas Brothers, Jumanji, and Robin Williams1:54:09 – Best decisions1:55:10 – Competition self-talk1:57:07 – Advice for young competitors1:58:06 – “More doesn’t always mean better.”1:58:45 – What is standing between Allison and the 2024 Olympics?2:00:01 – Grateful for community

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 50:27.

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠