The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Paul Robinson, a top boulderer with a decade of V15 climbing experience, shares his journey through injuries and his recent autism diagnosis. He discusses the emotional aspects of recovery, comparing climbing to writing a book, and the importance of enjoying the process rather than just focusing on performance. Paul also delves into his filmmaking adventures, contrasting feature films with YouTube, and explores untapped bouldering spots in South America. With insights on minimalism in climbing attire and the evolution of gear, he inspires climbers to adapt and thrive.

"Steven's Blog" is now available for Patrons!In this blog episode, Steven shares a recap of his final weeks in Hueco, and his first two weeks trying a 14a in Utah.Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more blog episodes! Plus, it helps out the show! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCheck out the "Announcing Reflections and Steven's Blog" episode to learn more!

"Reflections" are now available for Patrons!In this Reflections episode, Mina talks with Steven about an area of her climbing that she still struggles with, and about building general strength. She also talked about the different versions of ourselves we experience in life and embracing the current version of herself.Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more Reflections episodes! Plus, it helps out The Nugget and The Curious Climber Podcast!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingCheck out the "Announcing Reflections and Recaps" episode to learn more!

Announcing more new content for Patrons! "Reflections" are collaboration episodes with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Hazel Findlay of the Curious Climber Podcast. These are short episodes where one of us shares our thoughts on something we've been thinking about, or are working on in our own climbing or lives."Recaps" is a new episode series where I share what I have been up to for the past month, how I have been training, top 3 climbing highlights, what I could have done better,  plans for the next month, and more. Think of this as Steven's monthly blog update, but in audio form. UPDATE: I originally called my blog posts "Recaps" but people were confusing those with recaps of the podcast so I changed the name to "Steven's Blog".Become a Patron for $10/mo to get access to Reflections and Steven's Blog! Plus, it helps out the show! patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my third Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my 2022 trip to Hueco, combining hangboarding with outdoor climbing, trip highlights, the Hueco Downward Spiral, lessons learned, and what I plan to do differently next year.*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first and second Follow-Ups with him before this episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:41:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Other Episodes:EP 70: Steve MaischFollow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the second one, published Jan 7, 2022)

Jordan Cannon is a professional climber who exploded onto the Yosemite scene in recent years with multiple in-a-day free ascents of El Capitan, and hard big wall linkups. We covered Jordan’s climbing origin story, playing college soccer, seeking adventure in Yosemite, van life tips, big wall pooping stories, free climbing El Cap in a day vs. multiple days, the value of dirtbagging, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10%  off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jordan-cannonNuggets:0:06:46 – Peter Croft’s episode, and how Jordan got connected with Peter0:10:30 – Climbing with your heroes, and getting turned on to sport climbing by Peter0:12:40 – Jordan’s origin story, and teaching himself how to sport climb in a tree at age 70:21:01 – Telling his mom he wanted to become a climber at age 40:23:02 – Appreciating climbing more because he found it later in life0:25:43 – Being burned out on team sports, being let down by teammates, and seeking adventure in rock climbing0:29:08 – Starting to climb at the James Island County Park Climbing Wall0:32:01 – Road tripping to CA0:34:38 – Going to Joshua Tree for the first time0:38:46 – Jordan’s rock climbing education, and what Jordan and I each studied in college0:44:35 – Jordan’s path to becoming a professional climber, feeling alone in his passion for trad and adventure climbing, and getting out of San Diego0:48:07 – What drew Jordan to Yosemite, and seeing Valley Uprising for the first time0:54:04 – People who made history by not trying to make history0:57:28 – Being overwhelmed by the amount of things to repeat in climbing, and Jordan’s first experience in Yosemite1:01:31 – Why you shouldn’t wait until you are “good enough” to go to Yosemite1:03:35 – Why Yosemite is Jordan’s favorite climbing area, and why he needs breaks from it1:05:21 – Working seasonally and living the dirtbag life, working odd jobs, and how Jordan structures his year1:09:26 – Living out of a Honda CRV, living in a cave in Yosemite, and the value of dirtbagging1:15:26 – Jordan’s top vanlife tips, and pee bottle beta1:20:52 – Going number two1:22:30 – Big wall pooping stories, and “shit-putting”1:30:03 – Free climbing El Cap in a day vs. over multiple days1:37:36 – Sending the Triple Crown link-up1:46:56 – The coolest goal Jordan can think of in Yosemite1:49:21 – How Jordan structures his year now that he is a professional climber1:54:47 – Jordan’s bouldering and sport climbing goals, and meeting Tom Herbert1:58:57 – Advice for aspiring big wall or traditional climbers2:01:01 – Diet, sleep, and having different modes (send, training, rest)2:05:54 – “Long term consistency trumps short term intensity.” - Bruce Lee2:07:32 – Taking off-seasons or easy phases2:13:13 – The Classroom Analogy2:17:05 – The skills and steps required to climb El Cap2:20:29 – Wrap up and Jordan’s Yosemite goals for the Spring of 2022

In Q&A 5, I tackle Patron questions about my own current hangboard training, how to fit everything in that we need to train, how to deal with bad body image, how my training and climbing have changed since starting the podcast, golden nuggets for newer climbers, where I found the theme song for the podcast, my van life internet setup, and much more. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-5Nuggets:0:03:55 – Intro and updates0:07:41 – My Personal Climbing / Training / Goals:0:07:41 – Vincent: Current finger strength routine?0:15:16 – Vincent: What does your current training cycle look like?0:18:24 – Konstantinos: What are your European dream sends?0:20:24 – Daniel: If you could send the next grade by sacrificing something pleasurable, what would it be?0:22:20 – Christoph: How did it go trying to free Moonlight Buttress? Are you going back?0:24:18 – Christoph: Plans for Yosemite this year?0:26:00 – Matt: Top 3 go-to climbing shoes?0:28:04 – André: What grade do you honestly feel is your absolute limit in bouldering?0:29:27 – André: Do you miss some of the body strength exercises you used to do a lot? (Pistol squats, deadlift, etc.)0:32:17 – Xander: How have these podcasts shaped the way you climb and train?0:36:25 – Training / Climbing Advice:0:36:25 – Konstantinos: What would be your golden climbing nugget towards newer climbers?0:40:19 – Briana: How do you fit in all of the different types of training that seem necessary, without getting too fatigued?0:44:34 – Neal: Verm mentioned curing his chronic elbow tendonitis by primarily training his shoulders. Do you have any insights into this?0:47:42 – Nutrition / Body image:0:47:42 – Savva: How do you deal with bad body image?0:52:25 – Savva: How do you decide how to eat and rest without getting obsessive or spending a fortune?0:54:37 – My Background / Route Setting:0:54:37– Justin: Furthest you got from the WWU rec center and found tape on your shoe?0:55:30 – Justin: Biggest positive change in commercial climbing gyms vs. when you started? Biggest negative change?0:58:06 – Justin: Did WWU shape your climbing experience for the better? How do you think modern collegiate climbing experiences compare?1:00:30 – Will: Did you have a favorite setting style as a route setter back in college?1:01:52 – Will: Did you set at a bouldering or a rope climbing wall?1:03:58 – Vanlife / Traveling / Lifestyle:1:03:58 – Savva: How do you plan your climbing trips?1:07:08 – Savva: Biggest expenses doing van life?1:08:23 – Ainsley: Cultural differences between different climbing areas? Biggest takeaways from traveling?1:10:46 – Briana: Is it difficult to find partners on the road? Any tips for finding partners for roped climbing?1:12:38 – Fil: Any thoughts on how to fill your non-climbing time when living in a van?1:15:08 – Skyler: Where do you like to climb during the summer?1:16:06 – Joe: Favorite go-to dinners in the van?1:17:42 – Liam: Internet setup in the van?1:19:32 – Personal / Fun / Random:1:19:32 – Casey: If you could have been a pro athlete in any other sport when you were young, what would you be?1:20:57 – André: Top 2 climbing places outside of the US you would like to know and why?1:22:17 – André: Who's is the freakiest climber you've seen perform live, and how was it?1:25:32 – Savva: How does your family feel about climbing?1:26:41 – Savva: What do you want to try / learn / experience / send next year?1:29:35 – Savva: What’s the last book you enjoyed or found important?1:31:22 – Vincent: As your fame grows, how do you see yourself changing?1:33:21 – Vincent: What things you didn't think about when you started this venture have become important for you?1:34:43 – Vincent: Are there any things that felt important when you started, such as training and climbing outdoors, that have changed in priority?1:35:51 – Daniel: Are you thinking of settling down any time soon?1:37:14 – Daniel: Are you dating now? Do you want kids?1:38:44 – Darren: What are you grateful for and why did you stop asking that question?1:41:12 – Podcast / Podcasting Goals:1:41:12 – Taylor: How did you choose the theme song for the Nugget?1:42:58 – Taylor: What podcasts does a podcaster listen to?1:45:54 – Ainsley: When you say “I’ll link to that in the show notes”, are you just leaving yourself a reminder to do it when you listen back? Was this conscious when you started?1:47:36 – Daniel: Have you ever had to postpone an interview because of your mood, mental health, or tiredness? Are there any interviews that you think you should have postponed?1:53:34 – Christoph: What do you like best about how Tim Ferriss approaches podcasting? What do you like least?1:56:12 – Linda: Does the finished podcast that we hear follow the actual order/flow of the interview in real life?1:58:32 – Hunter: Do people recognize you at the crags? Do you find that you have to keep up a different persona/image while at the crags?2:01:28 – Hunter: How do you view your progression in podcasting? And what do you think it takes for you to get to the next level (whatever that means to you!)?2:03:30 – Wrap up

Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10%  off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehallyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:07:43) – Staying in a gite in Fontainebleau(00:09:45) – Shauna Coxsey’s husband(00:11:07) – A background on Ned’s climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield(00:16:51) – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s(00:21:01) – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve(00:22:57) – Ned’s philosophy for improving at climbing, being well-rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly(00:28:20) – Ned’s dimensions, “If that’s how you’re built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber(00:32:08) – The leap in Ned’s climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)(00:35:29) – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?(00:39:40) – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing(00:45:25) – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions(00:47:35) – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training(00:52:05) – An annual overview of Ned’s finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals(00:56:11) – How much variety should you have in your finger training?(00:59:24) – Training one grip type per session(01:02:12) – The genetic component of finger strength(01:05:54) – How Ned structures a week of finger training(01:10:19) – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions(01:14:25) – Ned’s thoughts on only training half crimp(01:16:33) – The balance of Ned’s finger training and outdoor climbing(01:20:19) – Ned’s home wall, and making his own wooden holds(01:22:19) – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?(01:24:21) – Ned’s thinking on using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders(01:26:11) – Structuring a board session (bouldering)(01:28:28) – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character(01:32:09) – Targeting move types in a sessions(01:32:55) – Bouldering with ankle weights(01:39:42) – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process(01:42:38) – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries(01:48:26) – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?(01:54:01) – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard(01:55:55) – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?(01:57:09) – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?(02:00:19) – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?(02:02:29) – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation(02:03:59) – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?(02:05:13) – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?(02:06:12) – Ned’s stretching routine(02:10:14) – Science podcasts(02:11:19) – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?(02:12:29) – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade(02:17:12) – Flashing ‘Trust Issues’ V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset(02:20:40) – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!(02:23:58) – What's next for Beastmaker(02:25:19) – Where to buy the book (links in show notes)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, takeaways from critical and peak force testing with the Lattice Team, tips for breaking through plateaus on a hard project, how to enjoy a long life of climbing, and what it means to “cook tea” in England.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:40:26.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingSteve’s Original Episode:EP 68: Steve McClure

Dr. Favia Dubyk is a pathologist, cancer survivor, Ninja Warrior, cat lover, and badass boulderer. We talked about the connective tissue disorder that led her to specialize in lowball roof climbing, what it was like to go through cancer and chemotherapy, how she became one of the strongest people in the world at pull-ups, learning how to dyno, and her current V13 lowball roof project.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, and Skyler MaxwellBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/favia-dubykNuggets:0:06:54 – Trying Matini Right, and recording beta on video0:11:50 – Identifying as a “Lowball Roof Boulderer”, and Favia’s connective tissue disorder (Ehlers-Danlos)0:15:55 – Discovering that she had Ehlers-Danlos0:17:52 – Having hip dislocations as a track athlete, and “pain is temporary but success is forever”0:19:36 – Physical Urticaria, getting hives from an ice bath as a runner, and why climbing is a better fit than running0:22:50 – Being ridiculed for being a hyper-specialist, and embracing being weird (alien)0:26:09 – Watching dance videos, and realizing that the most interesting adults were probably all “misfits” as kids0:28:26 – Feeling like an outsider, finding her people in high school, making clubs, and laminating0:31:58 – Mission Impossible and Chemo Brain0:34:46 – Hanging up her spikes and discovering climbing0:37:09 – Learning that sports come first, and using her time management skills as a climber0:41:03 – Starting her own Pathology Education clinic, and what Favia does as a Pathologist0:46:49 – Wanting to be a doctor as a kid, and being bribed by her mom to get worse grades0:49:31 – Have a 13cm mass in her chest, and getting diagnosed with Hodgkin's lymphoma0:51:08 – Running the 100m dash and being the fastest woman in Harvard’s history for 7 years0:52:23 – Getting sick with cancer, and having her “death day”0:57:44 – Taking life second by second, and getting chemo every two weeks1:01:27 – What made Favia feel better when she was sick1:04:41 – Feeling the lowest after treatment, and needing distance from people1:07:16 – Poor memory and carrying a camera around as a kid to remember things, her personality after cancer, and making the choice to recover1:11:40 – Feeling anger, channeling that into getting back in shape, and wanting to climb ‘Helicopter’1:13:44 – Learning how to be comfortable in the outdoors as an adult, and being kind to people who are new to the outdoors1:16:36 – Doing gymnastics as a kid, and being risk-averse1:18:12 – Favia’s climbing progression after cancer, and limitations from surgery and chemo1:20:28 – Weighted pullups, and measuring her one-arm pullups in cats1:25:28 – Natural upper body strength, lock-offs, and learning how to move dynamically1:30:05 – Working with Lattice Training, and some of the progressions in learning to dyno1:37:50 – Arnold Schwartzenager, Alex Johnson, and other climbing inspirations1:41:29 – Dominique Dawes, and wanting to inspire other black climbers1:47:41 – Hurting her back training for Ninja Warrior, the “power discs” (TENS Units), and why Favia uses them on her legs1:58:43 – Soylent (meal in a bottle)2:03:41 – A typical day of eating for Favia2:07:32 – Favia’s philosophy on diet and protein, and recovering from anemia by eating steak “rare plus”2:11:49 – Favia’s favorite foods2:15:00 – Favorite shows2:16:38 – Being married to a non-climber, and how to navigate vacations together2:20:37 – Working for Kinesio Tape, and doing more motivational speaking2:25:18 – Think about your jokes2:28:12 – Assuming other people are going through hard things, and giving people the benefit of the doubt2:33:00 – Living every day to the fullest, and what Favia’s dream life would look like if she turned out like Arnold Schwarzenegger2:38:34 – Being decisive, and never asking “what if”2:39:42 – What animal Favia would have in her house, and rescuing animals2:41:50 – Kids and trying IVF2:44:06 – Favia’s V13 project2:49:17 – Weighted pull-ups on hangboard edges2:50:03 – Favia’s current go-to strength and rehab exercises, and why front levers are “key”2:54:02 – Tips for training front levers2:55:52 – Wrap up, and parting advice for caretakers2:58:21 – “Climbing days for everyone!”