HVAC School - For Techs, By Techs

In this episode of the podcast, Jim reviews the basics of evacuation and dehydration. He also covers hoses and vacuum gauge placement. Evacuation may just seem like a method to suck air and water out of a system. However, it is an intricate science that lacks a lot of detail in most trades education programs. The deepest vacuum we can possibly pull merely offsets the atmospheric pressure and is actually not that deep; the deepest possible vacuum is -14.7 PSI (-29.92" Hg). The evacuation rig is the most important element of evacuation. If you want a fast evacuation, DO NOT use 1/4" hoses or manifolds. However, those are both common practices in the HVAC industry. The only way to increase the flow of refrigerant, air, and water out of a system is to increase the hose diameter. Larger hoses have less resistance than smaller hoses. Pump size does not seriously impact evacuation speed when compared to hose diameter and the presence/absence of Schrader cores. Schrader cores are other major sources of restriction, and you'll want to use core removal tools. Air from a vacuum pulls in a localized area. As such, it is a BAD idea to hook your vacuum gauge up at the vacuum pump. You are measuring the pressure of the pump, in that case, NOT the whole system. When you read 500 microns at the pump, the real pressure of the system could be over 1000 microns (especially if you have 1/4" hoses). Bryan and Jim also discuss: Atmospheric pressure Connectors What is a "good" vacuum? Decay tests Moisture throughout the system and its effects on decay Water's state changes and vacuum Sublimation and ice during an evacuation Capping off, soldering, brazing   If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.

Jamie Kitchen from Danfoss talks about the building blocks of psychrometrics, including wet-bulb, dry-bulb, relative humidity, dew point, enthalpy, and latent heat. They discuss how humidity affects air density and its impact on human comfort. The podcast also covers the significance of proper design in HVAC systems, the effects of improper evaporator coil temperature, and issues with CFM measurement in residential HVAC systems.

In this episode, Bryan and Jim discuss measuring voltage drop and what it means. They also cover some other pointers to keep from using parts to bandage a deeper issue. A common mistake that technicians make is not understanding what an ideal measurement is before making a measurement. For example, they may not know what the refrigerant pressures should be before they attach the gauges. Electrical measurements are the same, and voltage drop falls under that umbrella. Voltage refers to electrical pressure, and current refers to electrical flow; they are two different values. The voltage will typically be at its full value (e.g., 240v) until you test the system under load. The voltage will drop when the motor begins turning. A motor will generate either motion or heat. When a motor doesn't have enough electrical pressure (voltage) to start, it will generate heat until it trips an internal overload. Upon startup, a standard voltage drop will be around 20% on a properly sized circuit. When the unit drops voltage in excess, the compressor turns more slowly and reduces its output. Many technicians measure voltage to see if it merely exists. They do not attempt to see if the voltage is at an appropriate level, and that's a major pitfall in our industry. Technicians ought to know the appropriate voltage values so that they can assess if the voltage drops are normal or excessive upon startup and while a compressor is running. Common issues that cause excessive voltage drop include: Excessive heat loads in the building (from other electrical appliances) Undersized feed wires from the transformer to the pole Loose lugs Corroded connections Conductors that are too small or too long   Before bringing out the hard start kit, make sure you do all of the preliminary checks to make sure you REALLY need it. Make sure the feed wire is the correct size and that your connections are solid. A hard start kit will mask the issues of voltage drop for a short time, but they don't address the core issue. So, just check voltage drop under load. Voltage drop should not exceed 20% on startup and 3% while running.   If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.

In this podcast, Jeff Neiman shares an overview of his chiller startup procedure and some things he looks out for when starting a chiller after the initial chiller installation. The actual chiller startup is typically the factory's responsibility (per the manufacturer); however, the "startup" that we're talking about refers to the installation and early maintenance. The first step is preparation. Neiman recommends having a copy of the installation manual and reading it beforehand. You should also have a "request for startup" or pre-commission checklist. You also want to make sure there is water in the system before starting up a chiller. Technical datasheets are also useful to have on hand. Once you get to the job site, inspection will be your main job. You can look for dents in the coils and other signs of damage from shipping or mishandling. Review the installation location. Make sure there is proper clearance around the chiller. As with other HVAC units, liquid in the compressor is catastrophic. So, make sure that the screw compressor is warm and liquid-free. Although centrifugal chillers have separate oil systems, heat is also important in those chillers because it warms the bearings. Next, you can open up the panel and check the power. Perform a voltage imbalance calculation to make sure your voltage is satisfactory. Check for proper wire sizing and the number of conductors. Check that the piping has been done properly for the flow direction. The condenser fan has set screws, and it would be wise to verify their tightness. Then, you check your water flow to make sure it fits all the correct parameters on your technical datasheets. Check the valves, flow, and pressures as specified.   If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.

In this episode, Bryan speaks with James Bowman from Rectorseal about hard start kits, PTCR devices, run capacitors, compressor overheating, and the Kick Start product. We also go pretty in-depth on potential relays and how they operate. Hard start kits are mechanical potential relays connected to a capacitor, and they aid in starting the compressor. They come in two-wire and three-wire types. However, they have some pitfalls. For example, they are easy to abuse. You may also come across a "hard start kit" that does not have a mechanical potential relay (such as a PTCR), which is not a true hard start. Many of those false kits are low-quality and borderline dangerous. The start cycle starts in approximately 0.4 seconds. A proper hard start kit will help the compressor start in less than 0.4 seconds. Two-wire electronic start kits don't react quickly enough and cannot remove themselves from the circuit in time. Two-wire mechanical potential relay kits, on the other hand, measure voltage between run and start, unlike a three-wire device that measures the voltage between common and start. Three-wire devices are typically okay, but they are not a universal component that can fit every unit. Rectorseal's Kick Start kit is an aftermarket kit designed to work on most units as a replacement for the OEM kit. When dealing with aftermarket hard start kits, the best practice is to know your equipment and the hard start kit's compatibility with the unit. Hard start kits work especially well with reciprocating compressors with long line sets and HVAC systems with hard shutoff TXVs. Bryan and James also discuss: Potential relays Back EMF Start capacitors Testing run capacitors under load and with meters Looking at systems holistically Copper plating inside compressors   For more information, go to rectorseal.com. If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.

In part 2 of this conversation, we go through the condensing unit and wrap up the call with our no-fluff customer service best practices.  The service call A thorough inspection is critical on any residential service call. A service call is an opportunity to check the integrity of the unit and the cleanliness of the blower wheel, drain, and other components. Check the charge, safeties, and five pillars. List the problems and present the solutions as suggestions. Provide appropriate timetables and provide all necessary information. If possible, you can let the customer watch you work on their system to build that trust and teach them about the unit. If the customer gets worked up over the pricing or frustrated over something with their unit, own the frustrating circumstance. Make sure you stay calm and rational with them. Remember, you are a consultant that they should trust, and it is best to be empathetic and professional at all times. When exiting the call, try to move on without spending too much time chit-chatting with the customer. Offer to answer questions by giving your contact information or the office's contact information.

This is part 1 of 2 on the soft skills practices of approaching and completing a residential service call in the best manner possible. Before the service call and good housekeeping Before a technician even leaves to go to work, they need to get their head in the game. Be ready to face the day by showering, shaving, and brushing your teeth. Having self-respect is also a sign of respect for the customer. The drive to work is a good place to clear your mind; you can listen to podcasts or do other things to get yourself in a good place to work effectively. Getting to work early is also a good practice. At the beginning of the workday, you can get a coffee, restock your truck, and fuel your truck to start your day with everything you need. When going to a customer's home, make sure you have reviewed the history of the unit and get there on time. Exit your truck as soon as possible; customers expect prompt service. Introduce yourself politely and listen to what the customer says. Respect their home; don't leave your trash on their property, don't smoke, and be careful not to let the smell of cigarettes bother the customer.

In this podcast episode, Bryan talks about grounding and some common misunderstandings related to ground, neutral, ground rods, and lightning. The common phrase that "current goes to ground" is a myth. The transformer (or the power source) that feeds a building creates a potential difference in charges (voltage); current is the motion of electrons between a difference in charges. A transformer has three terminals: two legs and the XO terminal (neutral). You have 240 volts between legs and 120 between each leg and the XO terminal. The leg of power going into the transformer is split into two in a single-phase application, so the sine waves are completely out of phase with each other. When you connect to a transformer, all of the power is either a balance between the two legs or is between the legs and the XO terminal (neutral); it NEVER goes to ground. If any power is traveling to "ground," it is traveling to the ground and going back to the source because there is no other path. Power travels to the ground and then to the source when neutral isn't properly bonded to ground. Another common myth is that the current always takes the path of least resistance. The current does not always take the path of least resistance; it may take all appropriate paths. All equipment is grounded to create a ground fault (this is called "grounding"). Then, it should be connected to a ground rod. Grounded assemblies attempt to dissipate high-voltage occurrences, such as lightning strikes and massive surges from distribution lines. Lightning is a very high-voltage DC phenomenon that can be fatal to people or equipment. So, dissipating electromagnetic pulses to ground is much safer.   If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.

Bryan talks with Nick Messick about some ice machine basics. They also discuss how to determine when to pick up the phone and call tech support. Ice machines have the same basic refrigeration circuit as HVAC systems. However, ice machines require a much different cleaning regimen. Many maintenance people neglect ice machines by using incorrect cleaners. You need more of a sanitizer than a cleaner; sanitizers kill germs and fungi, but cleaners work better on corrosion. When cleaning an ice machine, watch out for mold and scale buildup. Scale buildup is especially problematic because it hardens the water. You can use ice thickness probes or listening devices to determine the condition of the water (and ice). Also, use a nickel-safe cleaner, like Refrigeration Technologies' Viper Nickel Safe. Ice machines have "harvest cycles" where ice collects. Ice falls off the evaporator when warmth hits the evaporator. An ice machine may use hot gas or "Kool gas" defrost. Hot gas defrost reverses refrigerant through the cycle and sends discharge gas to the evaporator. Manitowoc systems use Kool gas, which uses saturated vapor at the top of the receiver and results in a quieter harvest. Tech support can really help you if you can't understand the manual or get stuck. However, some techs let their pride prevent them from calling tech support. Ultimately, calling tech support to help you understand an ice machine will save you time and save the customer money. You can also walk away from a situation having learned something new for next time if you call tech support and let them help you. However, calling tech support should NOT be a crutch that techs depend on all the time; basically, don't let them be your autopilot.   If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.

In this episode of the podcast, we talk about condenser wire sizing considerations, ampacity, temperature, conductor sizing, voltage drop, and why a #10 wire doesn't always require a 30-amp breaker. There's usually nothing wrong with OVERSIZING a wire or conductor. However, you still need to know which wires are safe for operation and comply with the National Electrical Code (NEC) protocols. Relatively small conductors can carry relatively high voltages. Instead, amperage dictates the size of the wire. Therefore, we use ampacity (amp capacity) to determine the size of a wire. Transformers are a perfect example; wires going into the transformer are small, and wires leading out of the transformer are larger. You also size circuit breakers, fuses, or overcurrent protectors to protect the conductor. The wire type that goes into a breaker depends on several variables. Some of these variables that affect ampacity include wire material, insulation rating, ambient temperature, and how many other conductors are in the same metal area. Thus, rules of thumb for wire sizing are not reliable. If the ambient temperature exceeds a wire's rating, you can derate a wire by using a multiplier; use the values in Table 310.15(B)2(a). A major concern for wire sizing is the probability of a short circuit. The term "short circuit" is often misused to describe ANY sort of electrical failure, but that is not the case at all. "Overcurrent" or "ground fault" is a more precise term for excessive amperage. Overload conditions indicate that the load is too large, so high amperage is drawn. Compressors draw the highest amperage out of all HVAC system components. Overall, size your conductor by minimum circuit ampacity and your breaker based on maximum overcurrent protector   If you have an iPhone, subscribe to the podcast HERE, and if you have an Android phone, subscribe HERE.