Surf Splendor

In today’s episode Makua Rothman discusses surfing Waimea at age 8, his maternal lineage to King Kamehameha, songwriting as a catharsis to process childhood trauma, how his World Title count was limited by his addition, the freedom in relinquishing the weight of expectation, and how society’s modern embrace of vulnerability can open pathways of communication with old-school parents. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode early surf icon Joey Cabell talks through transitioning from solid redwood boards (which he purchased from his shoeshine earnings) through Balsa to being the first Polyurethane foam board tester for Clark & Hobie, he share stories of being on the Duke Kahanamoku Surf Team, training for winter Hanalei by swimming the Nā Pali coast with Mike Doyle, winning the Duke and Peru International multiple times, founding The Chart House in Aspen in 1962, setting a record sailing from Hawaii to Papeete, the near-death mishap for Mickey Munoz on the return voyage, and so much more. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Tom Carroll reveals a little known spite that fueled his competitive drive since adolescence, how he’s learned to create a gap between thought and action, why success is intrinsically tied to interpersonal relationships, the immeasurable benefit of doing nothing, and how listening is one of life’s under appreciated superpowers. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Nathan Hedge shares tales from joining his heroes at age 13 on The Search for a month in Indo, Derek Hynd’s highly unusual (and effective) methods to prepare him for life on Tour, how the freedom of a nomadic life distanced him from his self-interest, the moment in Mundaka that triggered a new life trajectory, and why focusing on serving others allows one be kinder to one’s self. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Steve Hawk shares lessons gleaned from the world’s sweetest mom, explains why justified resentment may be the root of all evil, notes that the past is constantly in the process of being redefined by the future, reminds us to show don’t tell, and he checks in on a prediction piece he wrote about his future self 25 years ago. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dick Metz is back to discuss the documentary, now streaming, that chronicles his early world travel and the near death experience that was the impetus for the three year sojourn. He recounts early days in Malibu with Matt Kivlin and Nick Gabaldon, why Hobie Alter is the Thomas Edison of surfing, the undertold story of the original Mr Pipeline, his role in the wild Murf The Surf diamond heist and following FBI saga, and how investing into friendships has been the recipe to not only his success but also happiness throughout his 96 years. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show, surf photography great Sean Davey shares how his first memory of the ocean was of his mother in the tube, his favorite photo he’s ever taken, the legacy of Lane and her imprint of kindness, and how he’s been able to maintain passion and creativity to further develop the craft he discovered in adolescence. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show, aerial and floater pioneer Davey Smith reflects on Greenough’s early influence, how selling ice cream help fund his pro surf career, Russell Short’s hypnotic tube prowess, introducing Channel Islands to the North Shore, how shaping informed his surfing, and the value of taking time away from surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Hall of Famer Ricky Carroll talks about getting punched out in Hawaii, posing as a kneeboarder to make it to the World Championships, being the now longest running surfboard shaper in Florida. And Justin Quintal talks us through 11 Duct Tape wins, 5 US Opens, 1 World Title, and explains why partying late suits the longboard contest format and why his world record Grouper was also the best tasting fish in the world. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Kelly Richards talks about leaving Arkansas at age 13 to chase surf in South Carolina, the rare opportunity to own a historically persevered 50 year old surf shop, raising a surf prodigy in Cam, and explains how Jamie Foxx helped launch his career, his Wave Of The Winter at Pipe, and the expected gift of finding a long lost sibling. Live from Charleston! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices