Matt Goulding, author of “Grape, Olive, Pig,” tastes the original paella, finds out-of-the-way Spanish eateries, falls in love and recounts his one meal at El Bulli. Plus, J. Kenji López-Alt double-fries chicken; we travel to Paris for gnocchi; and Mark Bittman talks about “Dinner for Everyone.” (Originally aired March 8, 2019.)

Get the recipe for Potato Gnocchi with Butter, Sage and Chives.

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