Against The Odds Siula Grande: Over the Edge | Making Peace With It, With Simon Yates | 4
Sep 23, 2025
Veteran mountaineer Simon Yates, renowned for his incredible survival story on Siula Grande, shares insights on the risks and decisions involved in extreme climbing. He vividly recounts the harrowing moment he had to cut the rope to save his life during a disastrous descent. Yates delves into the emotional turmoil and guilt that followed, revealing how he found peace with his past actions. He reflects on the evolution of his perspective over the years and discusses the significance of honesty and trust in climbing partnerships.
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Epic First Ascent Turned Rescue
- Simon Yates and Joe Simpson completed the west face first ascent of Siula Grande in June 1985 and then suffered disaster on descent.
- Joe fell, shattered his leg, and Simon lowered him 3,000 feet while risking his own life.
Prepare Holistically For Big Mountains
- Prepare beyond technical climbing: plan logistics, language, acclimatization, and local transport when traveling to big mountains.
- Research and rehearsal help reduce surprises on high-altitude objectives.
Trust Is The Core Safety System
- Alpine-style climbing depends on near-total trust because the rope both protects and endangers partners.
- Continuous risk assessment and knowing your partner's skills determine whether to climb together or alone.
