Fashion in the Golden Age of Magazines and Sabato’s Farewell (Finally)
Feb 7, 2025
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Cynthia True, a former editor at Harper's Bazaar, and Dennis Golonka, the magazine's ex-art director, dive into their glamorous yet challenging experiences in the '90s fashion world. They reflect on Liz Tilberis' monumental impact on the industry and how her presence could have shifted today’s fashion landscape. Additionally, they discuss the drastic cutbacks in fashion shoot budgets and the evolution of inclusivity within magazine narratives. Plus, they share insights about Sabato de Sarno's surprising exit from Gucci and what it means for the brand.
Liz Tilberis revolutionized fashion journalism by blending high and low fashion, promoting inclusivity and creativity in the industry.
The podcast highlights the current challenges in fashion publishing, reflecting on diminished budgets and the need to revitalize artistic freedom.
Deep dives
Fashion's Evolution in the '90s
The episode delves into the transformative era of the 1990s in fashion, particularly under the influence of Liz Tilbaris at Harper's Bazaar. It highlights her ability to mix high and low fashion, illustrated by her insistence on incorporating affordable pieces alongside luxury items, showcasing inclusivity in style. This approach reflected a broader cultural shift as magazines began recognizing the importance of catering to a wider audience rather than solely focusing on high-end luxury. Anecdotes from former colleagues emphasize how Tilbaris fostered a welcoming environment that inspired creativity and warmth among staff.
The Competitive Spirit of Fashion
The dynamic between Liz Tilbaris and Anna Wintour is explored, illustrating a competitive yet respectful rivalry that shaped the fashion landscape. Their relationship was marked by mutual admiration, as both women navigated the pressures and politics of being top editors in a male-dominated industry. The conversation reveals anecdotes about how Tilbaris would push boundaries at Bazaar, challenging Vogue's supremacy and proving herself as a formidable force. This competition was seen as beneficial by many, as it fostered innovation and a rich diversity of ideas in fashion journalism.
Challenges and Changes in the Industry
The discussion also touches on the significant changes in the publishing industry and the fashion world, particularly regarding budgets and production values. It contrasts the lavish budgets of magazine shoots in the past with the financial constraints faced in today's market, where spending has dramatically decreased, impacting creative expression. The hosts reflect on how the industry's increasing commercialization has led to a lack of risk-taking, diminishing the artistic freedom that once defined editorial fashion. They emphasize the importance of nurturing talent and trusting creative professionals to revive the visionary spirit of past eras.
Liz Tilbaris's Enduring Legacy
Tilbaris's lasting impact on fashion journalism and editorial leadership is a central theme, highlighting her approach to creating an inclusive workplace and fostering talent. Colleagues recount her ability to inspire and empower others, nurturing a creative community that thrived on collaboration and innovation. The conversation emphasizes that her ethos of accessibility and warmth continues to resonate in the industry today, underscoring the importance of maintaining a positive workplace culture. Ultimately, they advocate for a return to the values of creativity and editorial freedom that Tilbaris championed, believing that such principles are essential for the future of fashion media.
Lauren is joined by former 'Harper’s Bazaar' editors Cynthia True and Dennis Golonka, hosts of 'Blow-Up: When Liz Tilberis Transformed Bazaar.' (If you haven’t listened, you should.) They discuss what it was like to work at a glossy magazine in the 1990s (from the expense accounts to the dress code), how today’s fashion industry would be different if Liz were still around (she tragically died of cancer in 1999), and why they wanted to tell her story. Lauren also dips into what designer Sabato de Sarno’s sudden exit from Gucci means for parentco Kering.