What Makes Mumbai’s Food History Different From Other Cities

Mumbai’s cuisine has been shaped by its migrants, not just from other parts of India but also from different countries.

“Irani food, for example, is not available in such abundance in other cities,” says Pronoti Datta, in this podcast conversation with Sidharth Bhatia. Datta’s new book In the Beginning There was Bombay Duck, a Food History of Mumbai, details the various cuisines brought by the city’s communities when they moved here. They brought their food traditions, met other food traditions and it all got transformed in the city. 

“I suppose my one thought, one idea that runs through the book, or I hope it runs through the book, is the idea of what it means to be native. And the idea of you know, being native is a very strong political idea in the state” she says.

She explains that the dining out culture did not start in the then Bombay till quite late. Most eating places catered to the working classes of their particular communities—Maharashtrians, south Indians, Gujaratis, Muslims. Only the westernised restaurants, which became popular in the 1930s, were patronised by the elite. It was only the Irani restaurants that were open to all communities and classes, she points out.