Burberry’s turnaround and the new era of London Fashion Week

On this special London Fashion Week edition of the Glossy Podcast, international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska is joined by editor-in-chief Jill Manoff to break down the shows, shifts and standout moments shaping the season.

London has been particularly charged this week, with President Trump’s visit, Parliament debating fashion’s cultural and economic value, and new BFC head Laura Weir waiving designer fees and boosting international visibility.

The London Fashion Week schedule reflects the mix of pressures and possibilities: More fast-fashion names like Zara joined the calendar, bringing visibility but also sustainability concerns. The stalwarts are still showing, including JW Anderson, Simone Rocha and Erdem, which are holding strong among a tough macro environment. And a wave of NEWGEN designers, such as Jenn Lee, The Ouze and Ewusie, are bringing fresh energy. NEWGEN is the British Fashion Council’s talent support scheme that gives emerging designers financial backing, mentoring and a platform to show at London Fashion Week.

Zofia also shares highlights to come this week in Glossy's coverage, including what is going on at Rixo, Edeline Lee and Patrick McDowell.

But at the center of it all is Burberry. Zofia and Jill trace the brand’s turbulent recent history — from executive and creative director shifts to pricing resets — and assess Joshua Schulman’s “Burberry Forward” strategy (9:00).

Luxury analyst Luca Solca from brokerage firm Bernstein joins the episode to weigh in on Burberry’s turnaround, stressing the importance of heritage, consistent execution and the brand’s ongoing challenge in accessories. We discuss how Burberry's new campaigns — like "Festival Season," featuring Liam Gallagher, and "Back to the City," shot on a red London bus — are reframing the brand. We also talk about how wholesale partners are responding to the brand's Fall 2025 collection and what’s next for Burberry, in both the U.K. and the U.S.