The modelling agencies recruiting from refugee camps
Oct 12, 2023
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Modelling agencies recruit young people from African refugee camps to participate in fashion castings in Europe, but many return laden with debt. The podcast explores the Sunday Times investigation on this issue and shares the experiences of refugees involved. It also highlights the desperate living conditions in Kakuma refugee camp and the glimmer of hope that the emerging modeling industry provides. The story follows the journey of a refugee model from South Sudan and raises ethical questions about recruiting models from such vulnerable backgrounds.
Modelling agencies are exploiting vulnerable refugees from African countries by recruiting them for fashion castings in Europe, resulting in many models returning to the camps in debt.
The modelling industry lacks regulation and proper support for refugee models, leading to their exploitation and the need for greater accountability and safeguards.
Deep dives
Modelling agencies targeting refugee camps
In this podcast episode, the focus is on the issue of modelling agencies targeting refugee camps, particularly Kakuma refugee camp in Kenya. The South Sudanese models from the camp are in high demand due to the diversity and inclusion movement in the fashion industry. However, the refugees who are scouted and brought to Europe often face disappointment and exploitation. Many models return to the camp without booking any work and in debt. This raises questions about the ethics and regulation of the modelling industry's practices in recruiting vulnerable individuals.
Challenges faced by refugee models in Europe
The podcast highlights the experiences of refugee models like Nia Boulang, who was scouted from Kakuma camp and brought to Paris for fashion week. Nia Boulang had high hopes of changing her family's life through modelling but faced numerous challenges. She was asked to lose weight and struggled with loneliness, lack of support, and the harsh realities of life in Europe. Eventually, she returned to Kenya in debt and with a sense of despair. Her story raises concerns about the lack of preparation and protection for refugee models in the industry.
Industry's exploitative practices and the need for change
The investigation reveals the largely unregulated nature of the modelling industry and the exploitative practices within it. Models often incur debts that are difficult to repay, leaving them vulnerable and trapped in contracts. The podcast emphasizes the need for greater transparency, accountability, and better safeguards for models, especially those from vulnerable backgrounds. It calls for agencies to be more selective in their recruitment, providing proper support and opportunities to aspiring models, rather than using them as tokens for diversity and tokenism in the fashion industry.
Modelling agencies are recruiting young people who have fled war-torn African countries and are living in extreme poverty. They are flown to Europe to take part in fashion castings, but some return within days or weeks, often laden with debt. We speak to the journalists behind the Sunday Times investigation.
With thanks to Edwin Okoth who provided additional reporting on this investigation, and Mari Malek from Runways to Freedom.
This episode contains material that some listeners may find upsetting.
This podcast was brought to you thanks to the support of readers of The Times and The Sunday Times. Subscribe today: thetimes.co.uk/storiesofourtimes.