Life and Art from FT Weekend How pasta became political in Italy
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Aug 18, 2023 Explore the politics of Italian food as the FT's Marianna Giusti and historian Alberto Grandi discuss the controversial origins of classic Italian dishes, the regional diversity of Italian cuisine, and the manipulation of food culture by right-wing politicians. They also delve into the significance of pasta and the simplicity of Italian recipes.
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Italian Cuisine Is Largely Postwar
- Alberto argues modern Italian cuisine mostly formed after World War II during the economic boom.
- Many iconic dishes like pizza and carbonara are recent creations rather than ancient traditions.
Regional Poverty Shaped Food Traditions
- Italy was regionally diverse and poor for a long time, so one unified cuisine is unlikely historically.
- Massive emigration and regional diets of beans and vegetables show traditional food was simple and varied.
Pizza Began As Poor Street Food
- Mari recounts that Neapolitan pizza existed as a poor street food made with raw tomatoes and sometimes wrapped.
- Italian immigrants in the US later dignified and popularised pizza as restaurant food.