Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-matt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads

(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones

(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for

(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced

(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps

(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)

(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing

--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--

(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview

(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence

(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good

(00:27:35) – The Hammer

(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail

(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer

(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong

(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset

(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)

(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing

(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners

(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit

(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary

(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention

(00:53:41) – Checking your ego

(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing

--INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--

(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview

(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades

(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”

(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber

(01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years

(01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story

(01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well

(01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing

(01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working

(01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good

(01:18:51) – Chunking

(01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta

(01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials

(01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line

(01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill

(01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving

(01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber

(01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training

(01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers

(01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy

(01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance

(01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong

(01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first

(01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves

(02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray

(02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position

(02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train

(02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun

--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--

(02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview

(02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic

(02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong

(02:23:57) – Occupying the position

(02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation

(02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta

(02:37:57) – The Golfer study

(02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics

(02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete

(02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt

(02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros

(02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser

„Die grüne Welle bricht“ - Alexander Kissler im Apollo-Gespräch