Follow the Money: The Podcast Bottled lies: Europe’s wine industry is tainted by fraud
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Aug 19, 2025 Barnaby Eales, a journalist passionate about wine and experienced in business reporting, teams up with Dominique Mesmin to expose a shocking deception in the wine industry. They delve into the scheme where millions of litres of Spanish bulk wine were sold as upscale French varieties. With climate change intensifying, the duo discusses how fraud is likely to rise. They also reflect on the broader implications for consumers and ethical winemakers, exploring the historical roots and challenges confronting this cherished industry.
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Merchant Confesses Large-Scale Wine Swap
- Jean-Sébastien Laflèche admitted buying cheap Spanish bulk wine and selling it as French wine to meet demand during a 2013 shortage.
- The scheme moved roughly 4.5 million bottles over several years, revealing a wide network of brokers and collaborators.
Fraud Detected More By Paperwork Than Taste
- Wine fraud is often uncovered through paperwork and audits rather than taste or lab tests.
- Isotopic tests exist but face legal and database limitations that hinder their use as court evidence.
Austrian Glycol Scandal Reshaped Industry
- Austria experienced a major 1980s scandal where producers added glycol to mimic higher quality without raising measurable sugar.
- That crisis damaged Austria's reputation and forced decades of industry reform.