From Dirt to Dye: How Citizens of Humanity Is Reinventing Denim

In this episode of Process, Arielle sits down with the creative director of Citizens of Humanity, Marianne McDonald to explore how one of fashion’s most iconic denim houses is rewriting the rules — from growing their own cotton to partnering with French biotech pioneers Pili to eliminate petroleum from their dyes.

She shares the creative thinking and relentless innovation it takes to lead a global brand while staying true to craftsmanship, sustainability, and style. From early influences and career pivots to building creative teams and spotting cultural shifts, this is a deep dive into the real work behind fashion that lasts — emotionally, ethically, and aesthetically.

We also unpack the evolution of fashion cycles, the surprising role of PowerPoint in creative direction, and why understanding your customer’s identity is more crucial than ever.

Whether you're building a brand, designing your dream job, or just curious about what’s really happening behind the seams of fashion — this one’s for you.

🧵 Key Takeaways:

• Citizens of Humanity is growing its own cotton and removing petroleum from dyes through a partnership with French biotech company Pili.
• Creative direction blends intuition, storytelling, and strategic vision — for both men’s and women’s collections.
• Authenticity and sustainability aren’t marketing tools; they’re fundamental to survival in fashion today.
• Fashion mirrors societal change — from economic shifts to cultural mood swings.
• Trends may be cyclical, but meaningful design starts with deeply understanding your customer.
• Building a brand takes experimentation, collaboration, and patience.
• Creativity in teams thrives on trust, not just direction.

Big thank you to The New Trend for brining this podcast together for us!

Find Marianne on Instagram here.

Find Citizens of Humanity on Instagram here.

Head to The New Trend to shop the Eco Indigo range here.

Find your host, Arielle Thomas on Instagram here.

Find Process the Podcast on Instagram here.

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See you next Tuesday x

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