The Documentary Podcast Emilia Wickstead: London Fashion Week
Sep 29, 2025
Emilia Wickstead, a luxury womenswear designer celebrated for her feminine styles, discusses her upcoming Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Drawing inspiration from her New Zealand upbringing and her time in Milan, Emilia emphasizes the collaborative effort behind her designs. She highlights the influence of Robert Mapplethorpe on her color choices and silhouettes, shares her perfectionist approach to crafting collections, and reflects on her unique experience designing uniforms, notably for Air New Zealand.
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Designing Around A Wearable Uniform
- Emilia Wickstead centers collections on a 'uniform' for her customer to create consistency and wearability.
- She and her team obsess over silhouettes and blocks to keep a recognizable brand language.
Obsession Breeds Strong Collections
- Obsess over your muse until you feel compelled to wear what you design yourself.
- Use established blocks then drape and pin to evolve silhouettes rather than starting from scratch every time.
Translating Mapplethorpe Into Fashion
- Emilia found inspiration in Robert Mapplethorpe's floral still lifes and his contrast of sensuality and severity.
- She plans to translate his lighting, shadows and colour contrasts into fabrics and checks.
