William Kelley on Wine Criticism, the Future of Fine Wine, and Recent Burgundy Vintages

In this episode of the Vint Wine Podcast, host Billy Galanko welcomes back William Kelley, Editor in Chief at Wine Advocate, for his first in-depth conversation since taking on the role. From restructuring the critic team and introducing perfumer-led aroma training, to emphasizing vineyard visits as part of the review process, William offers an inside look at how one of the world’s leading wine publications is evolving.

The discussion covers scoring philosophy, the risks of score inflation, and how changing consumer habits in the digital era are reshaping wine criticism. William also shares his own experiences as a Burgundy grower, including pruning approaches, Lalou Bize-Leroy–inspired canopy management, and the technical decisions that influence wine style and longevity.

We close with a comprehensive look at recent Burgundy vintages, 2021’s cool, classical character; 2022’s ripe concentration; 2023’s stylistic contrasts between reds and whites; the challenges of 2024, and why 2025 could be a standout year.

🎧 In this episode:
• Updates and new hires at The Wine Advocate
• Why vineyard work matters for credible wine reviews
• Balancing objectivity and subjectivity in wine criticism
• Scoring philosophy and avoiding score inflation
• Innovations in pruning and canopy management in Burgundy
• Burgundy vintage overview: 2021–2024, with an early look at 2025
• The future of fine wine in a shifting global market

Chapters:

00:00 Introduction to Vint Wine Podcast
00:19 Host Introduction and Episode Overview
00:56 Listener Feedback and Upcoming News Segment
01:26 Billy's Travel Plans and Wine Tasting
01:57 Quick Wine News: Alcohol Labels and Blending
06:03 Interview with William Kelley Begins
07:30 William Kelley's Role and Team at Wine Advocate
17:56 Wine Criticism and Quality Assessment
24:58 Scoring Wines: Differentiation and Cadence
25:50 Challenges in Wine Reviewing
26:49 Balancing New Releases and Horizontal Tastings
27:59 The Administrative Burden of Wine Reviewing
30:13 The Future of Wine Reviews and AI
31:48 Innovative Pruning Techniques in Vineyards
35:00 Managing Canopies for Optimal Growth
42:30 Recent Vintages and Future Predictions

📬 Want more? Share your feedback with Billy on Instagram @billygalanko_wine_nerd or by email at billy@thewinepod.com.

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The Vint Wine Podcast is hosted and produced by Billy Galanko. For more content follow Billy on Instagram @BillyGalanko_wine_nerd and for partnerships and collaborations please email billy@sommeliermedia.com.

Cheers!