Margo Hayes, a trailblazing climber and the first woman to conquer the 5.15 grade, shares her journey through the highs and lows of professional climbing. She candidly discusses battling Lyme disease and how it impacted her passion for climbing. Margo reflects on the pressures of societal expectations while striving to maintain balance between her athletic pursuits and creative interests. She also touches on the importance of community support, personal safety, and finding joy in individual achievements within the sport.
Margo Hayes navigated immense pressure to redefine success in climbing while managing personal health challenges, including Lyme disease.
Post-accomplishment periods can lead climbers to rediscover their passion and prioritize personal joy over external validation to prevent burnout.
Athletes face scrutiny over their varied interests outside climbing, highlighting the struggle between personal authenticity and public expectations.
Deep dives
The Pressure of Expectations in Climbing
Climbers often face immense pressure to constantly achieve more due to their past successes. After accomplishing significant milestones such as free soloing El Capitan, athletes may feel they have to continually redefine what success means to them. This pressure can become overwhelming, leading to feelings of doubt about whether previous achievements are enough or if they must pursue even bigger challenges. The importance of recognizing personal satisfaction and redefining success according to individual values is key in navigating this pressure.
Personal Growth and Rediscovery
Many climbers go through phases where they must rediscover their passion for the sport after reaching their goals. Transitioning from intense preparation and training to a point of completion can leave climbers feeling lost or unmotivated. Engaging in climbing for personal joy rather than external validation can help mitigate feelings of burnout. Ultimately, taking time to focus on what excites and inspires them is crucial for sustaining a long-term relationship with climbing.
The Burden of Public Perception
Athletes often grapple with how much of their lives should be shared with the public and face scrutiny when they pursue diverse interests outside of their sport. This dynamic can lead to misconceptions about their seriousness or commitment to climbing, as they may also be engaged in other passions such as music or modeling. The stigma surrounding multifaceted identities can lead to pressure to conform to a single narrative or expectation from fans. Athletes must balance honesty with their personal lives while also respecting their own boundaries.
The Challenges of Health Issues
Health challenges, such as Lyme disease, can significantly impact an athlete's performance and mental wellbeing. Symptoms may vary, leading to unpredictability in training and climbing activities, which can be frustrating for those who thrive on routine and progression. Dealing with such health issues often requires adjustments to training regimens and coping strategies, focusing more on self-care rather than external achievements. Sharing these experiences can help raise awareness and create a sense of community for others facing similar struggles.
The Complexity of Success and Legacy
Defining what it means to be a successful climber extends beyond just completing difficult routes; it involves personal fulfillment, positive impact, and contributions to the climbing community. Athletes may feel compelled to give back and provide inspiration to others while still managing their expectations and personal goals. This duality can create a sense of obligation or guilt, as they navigate their journeys in climbing and the impact their achievements have on their audience. Ultimately, balancing personal goals with the expectations of the climbing community is an ongoing challenge for athletes.
Ms. 5.15 – that was the moniker the climbing world bestowed on Margo Hayes after she became the first woman to climb the grade. Two more 5.15’s followed and Margo seemed poised to be a defining climber of her generation. Yet, in the background, Margo was quietly struggling with Lyme disease and exploring other interests when she wasn’t healthy enough to give climbing her all. What does a professional climber owe their sport, their community, and what do they owe themselves?