How Xinjiang cotton still haunts the fashion industry
Dec 2, 2024
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The podcast dives into the troubling world of Xinjiang cotton and how it infiltrates global fashion supply chains. It uncovers allegations of forced labor and the ongoing controversies faced by major clothing brands. Listeners learn about the hurdles in achieving transparency in supply chains and the implications for ethical fashion. The discussion highlights the tangled web of sourcing practices that continue to haunt the industry, sparking important conversations about accountability and consumer awareness.
The controversy surrounding Xinjiang cotton reveals the complexities of ethical sourcing in the fashion industry amidst allegations of forced labor.
Despite efforts by brands to eliminate Xinjiang cotton from their supply chains, significant challenges remain due to loopholes and intermediaries.
Deep dives
The Impact of Xinjiang Cotton on the Fashion Industry
Xinjiang cotton has become a significant concern for the fashion industry due to its association with forced labor, particularly involving the Uyghur ethnic group. Until 2021, Xinjiang was responsible for 85% of China's cotton production and nearly a quarter of global supply, but investigations in that year revealed human rights violations linked to its harvesting. As a result, major Western brands like H&M, Nike, and Adidas publicly severed ties with Xinjiang cotton, leading to a noticeable decline in demand. This shift was met with a counter-response from the Chinese government, which denied the accusations and incited boycotts against brands that distanced themselves from Xinjiang cotton, further complicating the landscape for fashion retailers involved with this cotton source.
Challenges in Avoiding Xinjiang Cotton
Even when brands like Uniqlo claim to avoid Xinjiang cotton, traces of it continue to infiltrate their supply chains. Recent tests have found banned cotton in approximately 20% of apparel samples sold globally, highlighting the difficulties in completely severing links to Xinjiang. The previous De Minimis Rule allowed small shipments of goods to enter the U.S. without customs checks, which e-commerce companies exploited to ship Xinjiang cotton. While the U.S. has since tightened regulations under the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, manufacturers have adapted by rerouting cotton through intermediary countries to obscure its origin, raising questions about the integrity of supply chains across the industry.
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The Ongoing Controversy of Xinjiang Cotton in Fashion
In today’s episode for 2nd December 2024, we tell you how banned Xinjiang cotton still sneaks its way into the supply chains of popular global clothing brands.