NPR's Book of the Day New biographies look at the careers of designers Claire McCardell and Virgil Abloh
Jul 18, 2025
Elizabeth Evitts Dickinson, author of 'Claire McCardell, The Designer Who Set Women Free', explores the revolutionary impact of McCardell on women's fashion, emphasizing her focus on comfort and functional pockets. The discussion highlights how McCardell transformed clothing norms in the 1930s and 40s, allowing women greater freedom. Additionally, Robin Givhan touches on Virgil Abloh's journey from outsider to luxury fashion icon, where he challenged traditional concepts of identity and collaboration in the industry.
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The Psychology of Pockets
- Pockets in women's clothing represent an important psychological freedom and functionality that was historically denied to women.
- Claire McCardell fought to include pockets in dresses and skirts, understanding their importance beyond mere utility.
The Popover Dress Story
- Claire McCardell designed the popover dress in 1942 as an easy-to-wear garment for women during World War II.
- Made with denim and featuring a large patch pocket, it was functional for women working and managing wartime duties.
McCardell's Swimwear Innovation
- McCardell revolutionized swimwear by designing suits that allowed women to actually swim, challenging restrictive norms.
- She rejected swim skirts and wool stockings, empowering women through functional and attractive designs.
