Climbing Gold

Katie Lamb: The Dark Side

10 snips
Aug 8, 2025
Katie Lamb, a groundbreaking boulderer from Berkeley, California, is the first woman to conquer V16 twice. She shares her thoughts on the surprise of sudden fame and the drama surrounding grade downgrades. The conversation digs deep into her ascent of 'the dark side' in Yosemite and the psychological hurdles climbers face. Emphasizing personal growth and the challenges of public scrutiny, Katie discusses the emotional weight of milestones and navigating her climbing career while remaining authentic to herself.
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INSIGHT

Project Mindset Drives Climbing

  • Katie Lamb treats life as a series of projects that fuels her climbing motivation and focus.
  • The cycle of starting, finishing, and restarting projects gives her purpose and keeps her engaged.
ANECDOTE

Anatomy Of The Dark Side

  • The Dark Side begins on a rail, includes a crimp lock-off, a long low-probability sloper section, then a crimpy outro to the top.
  • Katie Lamb divided it into three parts and spent roughly 20–25 sessions linking them.
ANECDOTE

Alpine Hike To Box Therapy

  • Katie Lamb hiked six miles into the alpine to attempt Box Therapy mostly alone and focused.
  • That solitude created a rare feeling of self-sufficiency and alpine-style adventure for her bouldering.
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