FT News Briefing

FT Weekend: Eat, drink and be merry

Nov 27, 2021
Tim Hayward, a longtime food critic for the Financial Times, dives deep into the evolution of British cuisine, urging locals to embrace their culinary identity. He discusses the rich history of traditional dishes like eels and pies in East London, showcasing the shift from embarrassment to pride. The conversation also features a visit to a historic pie shop and insights from mixologist Shannon Mustipher, who shares a holiday cocktail recipe while highlighting the contributions of bartenders of color to the seasonal drinking scene.
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INSIGHT

Culinary Cringe

  • Tim Hayward argues that British cuisine begins when Brits stop self-deprecating.
  • Modern British restaurants are inventive and deserve pride, defying the "culinary cringe."
ANECDOTE

Reader Backlash

  • Tim Hayward's article praising modern British food sparked outrage among FT readers.
  • Many readers rejected the idea of a positive British culinary identity, clinging to traditional perceptions.
INSIGHT

Redefining British Cuisine

  • Tim Hayward challenges the notion of chicken tikka masala as Britain's national dish, citing its recent and commercial origins.
  • He emphasizes that "curry" itself is a broad, non-Indian concept adapted for Western palates during British imperialism.
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