Amanda Mull, a staff writer for The Atlantic, dives into the shortcomings of American sunscreen, while Elise Hu, a journalist and K-beauty expert, highlights global alternatives, especially from South Korea. They discuss why better sunscreen isn't available in the U.S., revealing regulatory hurdles and a lack of FDA-approved filters since 1999. The conversation also touches on the cultural significance of sunscreen use in South Korea, showcasing how beauty standards influence skincare routines, contrasting sharply with Western attitudes toward tanning.
The US sunscreen industry lags behind other countries in terms of outdated filters and limited approved ingredients, leading to greasy, breakout-causing, and white cast-leaving American sunscreens.
Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) advocates for regulatory changes to allow newer and better-performing sunscreen filters in the US, aiming to increase FDA's flexibility in considering data from outside the US and encouraging skincare companies to provide required information.
Deep dives
The Problem with US Sunscreen
The US sunscreen industry has fallen behind the rest of the world, with outdated filters and limited approved ingredients. American sunscreen often feels greasy, causes breakouts, and leaves a white cast on the skin. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) has called for regulatory changes to allow for the use of newer and better-performing sunscreen filters available in Europe and Asia. The FDA's strict approval process, which requires expensive clinical trials, discourages companies from seeking approval for their sunscreen ingredients.
The Need for Better Sunscreen
Sunscreen is crucial for preventing skin cancer and premature aging, but many people dislike wearing it due to its unpleasant texture and appearance. Instead of relying solely on sunscreen, experts recommend covering up with long sleeves, hats, and sunglasses and seeking shade whenever possible. However, in situations with direct sunlight exposure, sunscreen is essential. The limited options available in the US discourage many from consistent sunscreen use.
AOC's Call for Change
Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez wants to pressure the FDA to be more flexible in approving newer and better sunscreen filters. She aims to increase the amount of data from outside the US that the FDA considers and to encourage skincare companies to provide the information required by the FDA. While the FDA has expressed the need for more clinical data, sunscreen developers find it financially impractical to conduct these studies for over-the-counter sunscreen products.
Better sunscreen exists, you just can’t get it in the US. Amanda Mull and Elise Hu explain why.
This episode was produced by Jon Ehrens, edited by Miranda Kennedy, fact-checked by Laura Bullard, engineered by David Herman, and hosted by Sam Sanders.
If you liked this episode, check out Sam’s pop culture podcast Into It from Vulture and the Vox Media Podcast Network: https://bit.ly/intoit-tex