Impolitic with John Heilemann Drew Nieporent: The Restaurateur Who Remade New York
Sep 22, 2025
Drew Nieporent, a veteran restaurateur behind iconic spots like Nobu and Tribeca Grill, dives into his new memoir, sharing tales from the restaurant trenches. He reveals how he transformed New York's dining scene from formal French cuisine to a lively, chef-driven experience. Drew reflects on his complex partnership with Robert De Niro and the heartbreak of being sidelined in the Nobu saga. He also discusses the pandemic's profound impact on dining culture, forever altering the way we experience food.
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Montrachet Changed Fine Dining
- Drew describes how Montrachet broke the French fine-dining mold with affordable prix-fixe menus and casual service.
- He credits chef David Bouley and a $16 three-course menu for winning instant acclaim and changing expectations.
Restaurateur Versus Investor Distinction
- Drew argues many modern 'restaurateurs' are investors who just supply money and lack hands-on craft.
- He elevates owner-operators who learn the business deeply as the true restaurateurs.
Tribeca Grill's Origin And Value
- Drew recounts how Tribeca Grill began after Robert De Niro expressed interest following visits.
- He emphasizes the restaurant's real-estate purchase and long-term role in anchoring Tribeca's dining scene.
