the Sharp End Podcast Ep 93 - Rope Soloing Epic - Duane Swanson
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Oct 1, 2023 Duane Swanson, an experienced climber, shares his harrowing experience of getting stuck while rope soloing and successfully self rescuing. The podcast covers topics such as the basics and risks of rope soloing, the challenges of placing protection in a water groove, and the importance of safety and proper supplies in solo climbing. Check out this episode for an inspiring and informative discussion on rope soloing.
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Self-Belay Changes Rope Dynamics
- Lead rope-soloing requires you to belay and manage slack for yourself while climbing past anchors.
- That dual role creates unique rope-weight, backfeed, and slack dynamics not seen in partnered climbing.
Practice Systems On The Ground
- Dial in your rope-solo system on the ground and practice repeatedly before taking it onto real rock.
- Hire a professional guide to teach and correct subtle, dangerous mistakes you won't spot from videos alone.
Use Backups And Tie Knots
- Tie safety knots and use redundant backups because devices can slip, teeth can damage rope, and heavy rope can backfeed slack.
- Never assume a device will act exactly like a partner; add knots or backups behind you.