Eric Hörst is back on the podcast! We talked about his upcoming road trip, fitting in training around work, sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c at age 59, motivation as the ultimate wildcard, autoregulation and tracking how you feel, what to do when you have a bad training day, and the top 7 most common training mistakes climbers make.

Listen to Eric’s original two-part episode:

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1)

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2)

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-returns

Nuggets:

0:03:21 – A wet Spring, and broken holds

0:06:43 – Preparing for a long road trip, working on the road, and current work projects

0:08:21 – Self-coaching, and figuring out what works for you

0:09:19 – Fitting in training around work, cramming before a trip, and maintaining vs. growing a business

0:14:02 – Sending Kaleidoscope 5.13c (8a+) at age 59, and how climbing standards are changing

0:18:33 – The normalization of hard climbing, burnout in kids, and motivation as the ultimate wild card

0:23:57 – Why Eric wanted to cover training mistakes

0:32:04 – Training Mistake #1: Going to the gym and not having an intelligent plan of action

0:37:21 – Autoregulation, doing the same warmup every session to check in, and tracking how you felt

0:42:04 – When to pivot vs. when to stick to the plan

0:45:47 – Training Mistake #2: Every training session is a competition with yourself

0:50:24 – Bad days happen

0:54:26 – Training Mistake #3: Cramming in your training before a weekend or trip

0:57:14 – Training Mistake #4: Engaging in inappropriate training while injured

1:10:42 – Nutrition for injury prevention

1:14:01 – Training Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan

1:25:36 – Training Mistake #6: Training your strengths but ignoring your weaknesses

1:31:06 – A physical and a mental weakness that Eric is working on in his own climbing

1:36:10 – Training Mistake #7: Doing everything right at the gym but getting sleep and nutrition wrong

1:43:04 – The wisdom of the current generation of young climbers, stress, and the iPhone trap

1:51:02 – Wrap up

MHAP 80 - 2019 Review with Sandra