Climbing Gold

Dope Lake Tangent: A Climbing Revolution

Dec 2, 2022
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INSIGHT

Climbing Versatility in the 1970s

  • In the 1970s Yosemite climbing era, climbers were versatile, excelling in bouldering, big wall, aid, and free climbing without specialization.
  • This contrasts modern climbers who often specialize, reflecting a shift towards athletics and focused skills.
INSIGHT

Grades Reflect Free Climbing Evolution

  • Yosemite's climbing grades rose from 5'11 to 5'13 within a decade, mainly due to free climbing catching up with climbers' physical capability.
  • Climbers already had the strength to climb harder, but the standards hadn't yet been applied on Yosemite's walls.
ANECDOTE

The Nose in a Day Dare

  • John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy West Bay casually decided at a bar that they could climb El Capitan in a day, then accomplished it.
  • That daring mindset embodied the bold, independent spirit that defined Yosemite climbing in the 1970s.
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