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The transformation of Olay from a declining “Oil of Old Lady” brand into a market-leading skincare innovator offers valuable lessons for product managers and innovation leaders. Through deep consumer research, strategic pricing, and holistic product development, P&G’s Nancy Dawes led a team that created an entirely new market category of “mass-prestige” skincare products. The success of this transformation hinged on understanding consumer psychology, developing innovative technology, and carefully positioning the product between mass market and luxury price points.
Remember when Pringles was just another potato chip, or when Olay was losing its shine in the cosmetics aisle? If you’ve ever wondered how struggling brands transform into market leaders, you’re about to get a masterclass in product innovation and consumer insight. Today, we’re joined by Nancy Dawes, a legendary force in product transformation who tripled Pringles sales and breathed life into the Olay brand by creating new product lines. She was Proctor & Gamble’s first female engineer to be honored as a Victor Mills Society Research Fellow. Nancy has also been recognized as a Serial Innovator—featured in the book Serial Innovators: How Individuals Create and Deliver Breakthrough Innovations in Mature Firms. She spent 38 years at P&G mastering the art of understanding what customers want before they know they want it. After retiring from P&G, Nancy continues to guide founders and entrepreneurs in creating products customers love and also volunteers with Ohio State College of Engineering and Girl Scouts of Western Ohio.
Whether you’re leading a product team at a Fortune 500 or founding a startup, Nancy’s proven approach for uncovering consumer insights and driving breakthrough innovation could be the difference between your product’s decline and its dramatic comeback.
Nancy characterized serial innovators as those who:
Serial innovators solve important consumer problems, and often figuring out the right problem is just as important as fixing it. They invent new technologies to support their solutions and follow their products into the marketplace rather than handing them to someone else.
Nancy told the story of how Olay transformed from a struggling brand, called “Oil of Old Lady” by some customers, to a market leader through strategic product innovation. The story begins in 1985 when P&G acquired Olay, which was then known as Oil of Olay. By 1995, when Nancy joined the project, the brand had declined by approximately 50% in value.
Nancy identified four factors that created the perfect environment for transformation:
Nancy’s original assignment was simply to create a superior facial moisturizer, but Nancy recognized that just having a better product wasn’t enough for success and it wasn’t really what the women who were buying skincare and starting to age really wanted. She came to this conclusion by using what she calls “kitchen logic”—understanding both what women wanted and how women believed anti-aging skin care products worked. Customers believed products need to penetrate the skin to work. They wanted to develop a product that is efficacious and that women intuitively feel is working.
To create a product that delights customers, Nancy and her team had to “collect and connect” many dots—considering many areas that were important to customers. Their innovations included:
Design Element | Strategic Purpose |
---|---|
Short, squat jar | Communicates cream efficacy |
Pump mechanism | Suggests absorption and precise dosing |
Large window carton | Creates shelf visibility |
Simple graphics | Encourage counter display |
Light-reflecting particles | Reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the short-term |
Innovative combination of ingredients | Reduces signs of aging in the long-term |
Nancy’s approach to consumer research demonstrated how product managers can gain deeper insights by going beyond traditional market research methods. Her commitment to understanding consumer behavior firsthand led to breakthrough insights that shaped Olay’s transformation.
Nancy’s comprehensive research approach included:
By observing customers do their skincare routines, Nancy learned that after a customer first uses the product, she thinks about how it makes her feels. Over the next few days, she checks whether her fine lines and wrinkles are disappearing. After 2-3 weeks, she decides whether to keep using the product, but the bioactive ingredients take a few months to work. This knowledge led to Olay adding light-reflecting particles to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, encouraging customers to keep using the product long enough for the bioactive ingredients to start working.
Nancy learned from customer focus groups that customers perceived Olay’s product as a department store product that would cost $30-40. Olay created the “mass-prestige” skincare category, launching their Total Effects skincare as a $20 prestige product but in the mass channel. To validate the premium positioning, the team conducted extensive testing, including blind tests in which Olay outperformed leading department store brands in improving seven signs of aging.
Nancy realized early-on that it wouldn’t be enough to develop a better product. Olay needed a different product. Rather than just staying comfortable as a product developer, Nancy acted as a serial innovator and took the risk of launching an entirely new brand.
Nancy identified a significant market gap between cheap mass market skincare and expensive department store skincare. Their customers shopped at both places. They tested different price points and found that $20 was inexpensive enough for mass market shoppers and expensive enough to be a high-quality department store product.
One of the most valuable insights Nancy shared was about managing the challenges serial innovators face within large organizations. She acknowledged that innovators often feel like “square pegs in round holes” and offered practical strategies for success:
Nancy’s experience showed that while holistic innovation might look simple once completed, the process of getting there can appear chaotic to others in the organization. The key is helping others understand your thought process and building support for your approach through clear evidence and results.
Nancy compared the work of a serial innovator to a spider in its web:
The transformation of Olay from a declining brand into a market leader offers valuable lessons for today’s product managers and innovation leaders. Through Nancy’s systematic approach to consumer research, strategic product development, and market positioning, we see how breakthrough innovation happens when technical expertise meets deep consumer understanding. Her story demonstrates that successful product transformation requires more than just creating better products – it demands a holistic approach that considers every aspect of the consumer experience.
For product managers looking to drive innovation in their organizations, the key takeaway is the importance of becoming what Nancy calls an “M-shaped innovator” – someone who can master multiple domains while connecting insights across disciplines. Whether you’re working to transform an existing product or create an entirely new category, success depends on your ability to combine consumer insights, technical innovation, and strategic thinking while building the organizational support needed to bring transformative ideas to market. The Olay case study shows that with the right approach and persistence, even the most challenging product transformations are possible.
“I see dead people.” – Nancy Dawes, based on The Sixth Sense
Nancy is a recognized Serial Innovator from Procter & Gamble for her transformative work on Pringles, Olay, & Head & Shoulders. She was instrumental in creating the anti-wrinkle, masstige skin care movement inside the $135 billion global skin care category via her pioneering work which turned a declining Olay brand into a $2.5 billion powerhouse. She led global teams that demonstrated improvement in skin health and appearance, strategized proprietary materials, innovated packaging and product characteristics with uniquely strong consumer appeal and enabled pricing that led to holistic business wins for P&G. Bookending this program, she employed similar methods and achieved similar results in P&G’s global Head & Shoulders and Pringles’ brands. Nancy’s string of achievements caused P&G to elevate her to the level of its most elite scientists and engineers (Vic Mills society) and the Ohio State College of Engineering to award her the 2021 Benjamin Lamme Medal for Meritorious Achievement in Engineering.
After 38 years at P&G, Nancy leverages her innovation experience providing training to help companies/people improve their innovation capability. She is an active volunteer for Girl Scouts and the College of Engineering at Ohio State.
Thank you for taking the journey to product mastery and learning with me from the successes and failures of product innovators, managers, and developers. If you enjoyed the discussion, help out a fellow product manager by sharing it using the social media buttons you see below.