This week, the city where you can taste the air on your tongue. We're going to Skopje with the Macedonian writer Aleksandar Dimishkovski to find out what it's like living in the most polluted city in Europe. On the brighter side, we also have some Swedish bling, a badass Romanian anti-corruption crusader, and some long-forgotten treasures.

Interested in finding out why John Ruskin is so relevant? Click here.

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