Ep492 - Elizabeth Block | Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing
Oct 22, 2024
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Elizabeth Block, an art historian and senior editor at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, dives deep into the cultural significance of hairdressing in the 19th century. She reveals how hair acted as a powerful symbol of identity, shaping women's societal roles. Block highlights the influential contributions of women of color in the hair industry and critiques the perception of hairdressing as trivial. Through her exploration, she uncovers untold stories that challenge traditional gender norms and advocate for a richer understanding of beauty practices across cultures.
The cultural significance of women's hair in the 19th century influenced their identities and societal status, challenging trivial perceptions of hairdressing.
Block discusses the intersection of race and beauty standards, highlighting how women of color navigated and resisted societal pressures through hairdressing practices.
Deep dives
Cultural Significance of Hair in the 19th Century
The complex cultural meaning of hairwomen's hair in the 19th century was significant in shaping their identities and social standing. After the Civil War, hairdressing emerged as a vital profession that played a crucial role in local and international commerce. Elizabeth Block emphasizes that women's hair should be recognized as a cultural site of meaning, countering notions that associate hairdressing with triviality. By using visual and material culture studies, she uncovers the varied settings, including bedrooms and salons, where hair served as a medium for self-expression and social interaction.
Diversity in Hairdressing Practices
Elizabeth Block highlights the importance of including diverse perspectives on hairdressing practices across various racial and socio-economic backgrounds. The research sheds light on how Black, mixed-race, and white women adapted beauty standards and products in the face of societal pressures. While the prevailing beauty ideal often showcased long, luxurious hair, women of color frequently prioritized their unique textures and styles, often using natural products specific to their hair care traditions. This exploration illuminates the ways in which women leveraged hairdressing not only for personal beauty but also as a form of resistance against dominant societal standards.
The Role of Men in Hairdressing and Social Spaces
The podcast reveals how the hairdressing industry in the 19th century was not strictly gendered, with men playing significant roles beyond conventional barbering. Block notes that male hairdressers often catered to elite women, and men were also known to patronize women-run salons. This exchange occurred in social spaces that fostered discussions on broader societal issues, such as emancipation. By challenging the notion of rigid gender roles, the study encourages a re-examination of historical narratives surrounding both hair and the social dynamics of the time.
Elizabeth L. Block visits Google to discuss her book “Beyond Vanity: The History and Power of Hairdressing” where she explores the diverse history of women’s hair.
In the nineteenth century, the complex cultural meaning of hair was not only significant, but it could also impact one's place in society. After the Civil War, hairdressing was also a growing profession and the hair industry a mainstay of local, national, and international commerce. In Beyond Vanity, Elizabeth Block expands the nascent field of hair studies by restoring women's hair as a cultural site of meaning in the early United States. With a special focus on the places and spaces in which the hair industry operated, Block argues that the importance of hair has been overlooked as well as its misguided association with frivolity and triviality. As Block clarifies, hairdressing was anything but frivolous.
Using methods of visual and material culture studies informed by concepts of cultural geography, Block identifies multiple substantive categories of place and space within which hair acted. These include the preparatory places of the bedroom and hair salon, as well as the presentation places of parties, fairs, stages, and workplaces. Here are also the untold stories of business owners, many of whom were women of color, and the creators of trendsetting styles like the pompadour and Gibson Girl bouffant. Block's ground-breaking study examines how race and racism affected those who participated in the presentation and business of hair, and according to which standards. The result of looking closely at the places and spaces of hair is a reconfiguration that allows a new understanding of the cultural power of hair in the nineteenth century.