Intelligence Squared The Specialist | Virgil Abloh’s Reimagining of the Iconic Nike Air Force 1 for Louis Vuitton, with Brahm Wachter
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Nov 29, 2025 
Brahm Wachter, Head of Modern Collectibles at Sotheby’s, shares insider insights on the groundbreaking auction of Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1. He discusses the cultural significance of the iconic sneakers, reveals how Abloh's vision resonated with sneaker culture, and recounts the chaotic auction launch combined with personal life events. Bids soared beyond $126,000, raising $25 million for scholarships. Brahm also explores how this sale has impacted perceptions of sneakers as art and collectibles.
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Sneakers As True Design Objects
- Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 blended luxury and sneaker culture into a design object rather than just footwear.
- The shoes' meticulous symmetry and hand assembly elevated them to collectible art that resonated widely.
From Bootlegs To Authentic Collaboration
- Wachter explained that bootleg Louis Vuitton Air Force Ones existed and Virgil Abloh created the ideal, authentic collaboration.
- He highlighted packaging and symmetrical monogram work as signs of craftsmanship and authenticity.
Last-Minute Contract Rush
- Brahm Wachter described an urgent overnight effort to negotiate the auction with Louis Vuitton and Nike and finalize contracts.
- The team mobilized quickly despite complexity and limited time, signing the contract at 1 a.m. before launch.