#28: Origin, Native, Indigenous and Local: Building Our Coffee Vocabulary
Nov 24, 2020
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In this conversation with Dr. Aimee Dudley, a researcher on coffee fermentation and its relationship to native ecosystems, they delve into the complexities of cultural identity in coffee. They discuss the significance of terms like native, indigenous, and local, while emphasizing their societal implications. The dialogue examines the ethical dimensions of coffee sourcing, urging a reassessment of historical narratives in coffee production. Dudley’s insights reveal how much is lost when coffee is removed from its native environment, highlighting vulnerable producer dynamics.
The podcast emphasizes the critical role of indigenous knowledge in sustaining coffee cultivation, highlighting the loss of valuable farming practices when plants are removed from their native environments.
Through examining the distinctions between 'native,' 'indigenous,' and 'local,' the discussion critiques the coffee industry's definition of innovation and stresses the importance of historical context in evolving practices.
Deep dives
Risks of Sharing Producer Experiences
Many coffee producers feel pressure to share their experiences honestly, yet fear being perceived as ungrateful or complaining. This pressure often stems from their vulnerable position at the beginning of the coffee supply chain, where they face numerous challenges. The insights from Mark at Finca Rosenheim highlight that while some individuals may be willing to share their struggles, many remain silent due to these fears. The hope is that sharing such experiences will encourage more transparency in the industry, fostering understanding and support for producers.
Understanding 'Native' in the Coffee Context
The podcast explores the concept of 'native' as it relates to coffee, emphasizing that coffee plants are not indigenous to many regions where they are grown today. This distinction raises crucial questions about the fermentation processes, as non-native plants lack the microbes that contribute essential flavors and health to crops. Discussions on varying definitions of 'native,' 'indigenous,' and 'local' highlight an ongoing cultural and ethical conversation about representation and respect for the original stewards of the land. Recognizing these differences is essential for addressing the complexities of coffee production and cultural heritage.
The Importance of Indigenous Knowledge
Indigenous knowledge plays a critical role in the health and sustainability of crops like coffee, as it encompasses centuries of cultural connection and understanding of local ecosystems. When plants are taken from their native environments, the valuable knowledge and practices of those who have historically cultivated them are often lost. Coffee's transition from its origins in Ethiopia to multiple global regions reflects a significant knowledge gap, creating challenges for producers who struggle to adapt without this expertise. The imbalance of power between local farmers and external buyers highlights the need to honor and integrate indigenous agricultural knowledge in modern practices.
Innovation Misconceptions in Coffee Processing
The podcast critiques the term 'innovation' in the coffee industry, suggesting that many practices deemed innovative have existed in other fermentation industries for years. This misunderstanding can undermine the advancements being made in coffee processing and may perpetuate the notion that coffee is lagging behind other specialty beverages like wine. The conversation around what constitutes 'real coffee' amid the rising trend of unique flavors highlights an ongoing tension within the industry. Ultimately, the dialogue emphasizes the importance of grounding the definition of innovation within a scientific and historical context rather than merely pursuing trends.
If you started the season with me in October you’ll remember that I started exploring the topic of what we lose when we take a plant from its native environment. Episode #25: A California Coffee Farm & Native vs. Local Yeasts looked at the relationship between coffee trees and the fermentation.
Dr. Aimee Dudley’s research showed that the native microbes do not travel with the plant material and therefore all coffee fermentations outside of Ethiopia are non-native fermentations.
So we’ve touched on the above and below ground microbes that we leave behind. But is it only about microbes? Are microbes the most important thing we leave behind? I argue that it is not. As important as I think they are, I think there is something more valuable that is lost.
Today, in part 3 I want to talk about another aspect we miss out on when we take something from its native environment.