Megan McArdle: American food culture, artisanal to industrial
Jan 17, 2025
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Megan McArdle, a Washington Post columnist and author of "The Upside of Down," explores the intricate relationship between food culture and economics. She discusses how tariffs function like taxes, impacting food production and cuisine evolution. McArdle delves into American culinary history, from the luxury of gelatin desserts to modern convenience cooking. With humor, she shares insights on how technology and diverse cuisines shape today’s dining experiences, while reflecting on societal trends and personal food journeys.
The podcast explores how food history mirrors economic changes, illustrating the significant role of seemingly mundane food items in historical contexts.
Megan McArdle critiques the potential economic impacts of high tariffs proposed by Donald Trump, arguing they could weaken U.S. manufacturing and raise consumer prices.
The evolution of American food culture showcases a shift from high-status to lower-status dishes, revealing the changing social dynamics surrounding food consumption.
Deep dives
The Connection Between Food, Politics, and Economics
The podcast discusses how food, politics, and economics are closely intertwined. The speaker highlights that even seemingly mundane food items, like coffee or cake, have played significant roles in historical economic shifts, suggesting that the evolution of food culture often mirrors economic changes. For instance, the rise of the modern cake coincided with a shift in dessert preferences and cooking technologies, which illustrates how food innovations can influence cultural practices. This interconnectedness suggests that understanding food history can provide insights into larger economic and political trends.
Tariffs and their Economic Implications
The episode delves into the implications of potential tariffs proposed by Donald Trump and how they relate to American manufacturing. The speaker critiques the idea that high tariffs could effectively raise tax revenue or bolster the manufacturing sector, arguing instead that they could actually weaken economic performance. This discussion includes the complex reality that the U.S. still has a significant manufacturing presence, albeit challenged by global competition, and how simplistic approaches to tariffs could exacerbate economic issues rather than solve them. The consequences of imposing tariffs are examined, particularly their impact on consumer prices and manufacturing productivity.
Changing Dynamics of American Food Culture
The conversation shifts to the evolution of American food culture, particularly how the variety and availability of cuisines have drastically changed over time. The host emphasizes that contemporary access to diverse foods is often taken for granted compared to previous decades when options were far more limited. The discussion includes the rise of food delivery services and how they have transformed dining habits, allowing people to experience a wide range of cultures from home. This increased variety raises awareness of the cultural significance of food and how it reflects socio-economic changes in society.
Food Access and Class Perceptions
The podcast highlights how perceptions of food quality and class associations have evolved, particularly regarding dishes that were once considered high-class becoming lower-status over time. Jell-O, for example, is discussed as a dish that was once seen as innovative but has now fallen out of favor among higher socio-economic classes. The speaker reflects on how food items transition from revered to declassé as society's tastes change and the overall accessibility of foods increases. This shift underscores the social dynamics influencing food consumption and the class distinctions tied to culinary choices.
Dietary Restrictions in Modern Society
The episode addresses the prevalence of dietary restrictions today and how they impact food culture. The speaker points out that while dietary restrictions related to health can be beneficial, the rise of self-diagnosis and food fads often complicates social dining experiences. There's a critique of the cultural focus on special diets and the sometimes overwhelming pressure to accommodate myriad preferences. This evolving landscape suggests a shift where food becomes not only a source of nourishment but also a reflection of identity and values in contemporary society.
The Evolution of Cooking and Kitchen Technology
The podcast discusses the impact of cooking technology on societal norms surrounding food preparation and consumption. As kitchen tools and appliances have become more advanced, the nature of home cooking has shifted significantly, with more people relying on convenience over traditional techniques. The speaker touches on the nostalgia surrounding cooking practices from earlier decades and how modern conveniences have changed perceptions of cooking as a labor-intensive activity. This evolution illustrates a broader cultural trend toward convenience, with implications for how families gather and connect over food.
This week on Unsupervised Learning Razib talks to Megan McArdle, author of The Up Side of Down: Why Failing Well Is the Key to Success and Washington Post columnist and op-ed board member. McArdle was raised in New York City and attended Riverdale Country School. She obtained an undergraduate degree in English from University of Pennsylvania and an MBA from the University of Chicago. A pioneering blogger based out of New York City and covering the site of the WTC in the wake of 9/11, McArdle went on to work at The Economist, The Atlantic and Newsweek.
In this episode, the discussion largely focuses on McArdle’s research about the cultural history of food and cooking in the US. But first they discuss the economic implications of Donald Trump’s election, and the domestic consequences shifting toward a tariff-heavy trade regime. McArdle lays out the case that a massive tariff would have the same impact as a tax, not to mention the broad disruptive economic effects on large companies’ supply chains.
Then they move on to the changes in American cuisine over the last few centuries, and the shifts driven by technology and innovation. McArdle points out that in the 19th century, gelatin dessert was a luxury and an exotic treat because it was labor intensive to prepare. But by the middle of the 20th century industrial-scale food processing made gelatin, in particular Jell-o, a cheap commodity, and it became associated with the lower classes. Similarly, before factory farming, chicken and eggs were more expensive than red meat, and thus viewed as high-end ingredient (whereas today, chicken is far cheaper than beef). Finally Razib and McArdle talk about how the plentitude of food available in the 21st century contributes to the obesity epidemic that has only ceased its relentless expansion with the advent of Ozempic.
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