The podcast discusses the golden age of climbing in Patagonia and the impact of weather forecasting. It reflects on the idea of a fair means of sin and explores David Lama's transition from sport climbing to alpinism. It also addresses the challenges faced during climbing, including ethical considerations and learning from criticism. The chapter highlights the planning and reflections of the climbers and concludes with a celebration and backlash over route establishment and the chopping of the compressor route.
Advancements in climbing gear and weather forecasting led to a climbing golden age in Patagonia, making technical ice and rock climbing more accessible and increasing the chances of success.
The fair means ascent of Seratori's southeast ridge by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy sparked controversy, dividing the climbing community and igniting a conversation about climbing ethics and the future of the mountain.
Deep dives
Advancements in Climbing Gear and Weather Forecasting
In the 50 years following the first attempts on Seratori, climbing gear experienced significant advancements. Modern tools, such as curved ice tools and sticky rubber, allowed for more technical ice and rock climbing. Additionally, the introduction of weather forecasts was a game changer for climbing in Patagonia. With accurate forecasts, climbers could plan and gear up more specifically for their objectives, saving energy and increasing their chances of success.
The Shift in Climbing Ethics
Over time, climbers began questioning the legitimacy of climbing Seratori's southeast ridge with Maistri's bolts. Younger climbers like Josh Wharton and Zach Smith recognized the need for a fair means ascent, one without the use of the bolts. They attempted to climb the ridge without the bolts, aiming to prove that it was possible and potentially remove the bolts altogether.
The Dream Come True on Seratori's Southeast Ridge
Experienced climbers Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy embarked on a successful fair means ascent of Seratori's southeast ridge. They completed the climb without relying on Maistri's bolts, using their rock and ice climbing skills to tackle the headwall. Standing on the summit, they felt a deep respect for the mountain and the need to restore it to its natural state. Consequently, they made the audacious decision to chop over 100 bolts, erasing the compressor route from the mountain.
The Backlash and Controversy
The removal of the bolts sparked controversy within the climbing community, creating divide and triggering emotional reactions. Some climbers were supportive of the decision, viewing it as a restoration of climbing ethics and respect for the mountain. However, others felt angered or threatened by the removal of the bolts, defending the historical significance of the compressor route. The climb by Jason and Hayden marked a turning point in the history of climbing Seratori, fueling a larger conversation about climbing ethics and the future of the mountain.
In the 2000’s, a new, global generation of alpinists armed with a broad toolkit of skills and advancements in weather forecasting led a climbing golden age in Patagonia. While popular, Maestri’s Compressor Route becomes the target of climbers looking to leave a lasting impression on the sport.