Climbing Gold
The Greatest Lie Chapter 3: Fair Means
Nov 3, 2023
The podcast discusses the golden age of climbing in Patagonia and the impact of weather forecasting. It reflects on the idea of a fair means of sin and explores David Lama's transition from sport climbing to alpinism. It also addresses the challenges faced during climbing, including ethical considerations and learning from criticism. The chapter highlights the planning and reflections of the climbers and concludes with a celebration and backlash over route establishment and the chopping of the compressor route.
48:52
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Quick takeaways
- Advancements in climbing gear and weather forecasting led to a climbing golden age in Patagonia, making technical ice and rock climbing more accessible and increasing the chances of success.
- The fair means ascent of Seratori's southeast ridge by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy sparked controversy, dividing the climbing community and igniting a conversation about climbing ethics and the future of the mountain.
Deep dives
Advancements in Climbing Gear and Weather Forecasting
In the 50 years following the first attempts on Seratori, climbing gear experienced significant advancements. Modern tools, such as curved ice tools and sticky rubber, allowed for more technical ice and rock climbing. Additionally, the introduction of weather forecasts was a game changer for climbing in Patagonia. With accurate forecasts, climbers could plan and gear up more specifically for their objectives, saving energy and increasing their chances of success.
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